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after time it reduces the amount of carbon build up in the engine top end, due to exhaust gases will no longer be traveling thru there.
i'm not sure what all milzy includes in the kit, but i'm guessing a block off plate for the plenum and a short bolt type thing for the exhaust manifold.
Milzy is selling these for $50 which is way over priced in my oppinion.
I deleted my EGR because I broke the flex tube and GM wants $92 for a new one. I made a plate out of scrap metal to cover the port on the intake manifold and then bought a $3.00 threaded plug that threads into the exhaust manifold.
My total cost to delete the EGR was under $5.00. I could see $15-$20 for an EGR delete kit, but $50 is rediculous
2000 Grand Am GT 2011 Chevy Impala
"The world's best cam combined with a poor set of heads will produce an engine that's a dog. But bolt on a set of great heads even with a poor cam, and that engine will still make great power." ~John Lingenfelter
Uhm, you'll throw a code unless it's disable in the computer. And if it's disabled in teh computer, it's not going to open anyways. So i see no need for the extra hardware....
sigpicNew 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles 16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
after swapping manifolds on my car, and building headers, the egr wasnt an option to put back on. i ended up just building a block off plate for the intake. as for the code, yes it throws the code. i have the old style egr with the solonoid to controll it. i left the solonoid on, all hooked up, but capped the line that went to the egr. for s while it didnt throw a code, but now it does. my ecm does nothing about the code, so i just leave it. i think most obd1 computers dont go into a limp mode if it throws the code. obd2 is a different story though. the optimal thing for any computer system would be to shut off the egr function, but you can always get away with it being hooked up but have it sit in the cowl or something like that.
Well on my 94 ODBI you can't get away with that. It throws a code, and it will set off the check engine light. (SES). It will set it off, if you disconect the wire, or if you block it off, as it uses the MAP sensor to check if the EGR is opening or not. I tried a block off plate, but it kept tripping the light. So I went back to using the EGR. (originally thought it was bad, and cleaned it and fixed it, but then tried blocking it to prevent it from clogging again, but of course that didn;t work).
On the older cars with the vacuum ones the computer doesn't know any better, so they get off easy.
sigpicNew 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles 16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
I deleted mine in the computer, so I don't have a problem with the light
2000 Grand Am GT 2011 Chevy Impala
"The world's best cam combined with a poor set of heads will produce an engine that's a dog. But bolt on a set of great heads even with a poor cam, and that engine will still make great power." ~John Lingenfelter
The fuel table is setup to lower the amount of fuel when the EGR is open (by % EGR). I would hope that once it detects there is no pressure drop with the EGR open and throws the code, that it doesn't take away fuel. Otherwise its going to throw the fueling off (as far as I know, never tried it since i just turned it off and let it use the 0% EGR fuel constant).
For 5 bucks, I can't see spending 50, nor can I see making these unless people are willing to spend at least 25 on the setup. Id rather work on something more worthwhile personally.
Deffintely not worth $50. This thing is a waste of time unless you have a highly customized setup that it's easier to leave the EGR out of. As has been said before, deleting the EGR makes the engine run hotter at low rpm/throttle and hurts gas mileage so I'd leave it in unless you are doing an extreme engine build.
That said, the negatives of the EGR are minimal. Small amount of heat added to the intake, minimal carbon deposits. Nothing thats going to affect performance much considering the EGR closes during WOT. If you do decide to delete it, you can turn it off in an OBD2 computer with a tuner like DHP or HPtuners. Once you set it not to open in the pcm programming you don't have to worry about fueling. Since the pcm knows it's not opperating it won't make any fuel adjustments for it.
'97 Grand Prix GT 3800 (sold)
'00 Grand Am GT 3400 supercharged
13.788 @ 103.73 mph, 320whp 300 ft/lbs
Gotta love boost!
Phil: yeah, you're lucky you have ODBII. I have un-modable ODBI.5 BS!
sigpicNew 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles 16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
the carbon build up is in part due to the pcv system. combine the hot exhaust gasses with the oily residue from the pcv system and the rest is obvious. the build up might be minimal on newer motors but once your over 100K pull your heads off and check the back of the valves, thats where most of it ends up. i bet on my motor it was over 1/8" thick on the backside of the valve heads.
i'd rather maintain some top end oiling with the pcv and get rid of the hot egr gasses baking it on. if it throws a code it throws a code. the benifit i see is you got X horse power for a lot longer versus the head flow getting choked off and strangling the motor, more so for daily driven vehicals.
If you aren't friends with a liar, you aren't friends with anyone.
I have yet to get worse gas milage from no EGR. I now have a filter on my PCV system as well to get rid of the oil (and yes, it definetly collects oil). EGR is not minimal carbon, unless minimal carbon is defined by almost all of the carbon buildup you have.
I wouldn't block it off without programming the computer (unless you have the vacuum egr from the 80s), in which case it doesn't change your fuel constant based on the EGR. Even then, if you turn it off and its not stuck open, its gonna just sit there. Unless you need the space the EGR is taking up, there is no reason to remove it completely. That or you have headers.
In my case, I needed the space the EGR was taking, plus with the headers and supercharger it made doing maintenance on the engine a real headache. The EGR adapter and piping got in the way of everything. I can't tell if it made a difference in my gas mileage or not. I never measured it on my car since it's not a concern with my mods and HP goals anyway. It would be hard to measure anyway since driving habits will make a bigger difference (ie if you floor it all the time), but I'm sure under controlled circumstances like on an engine dyno they've shown it does make a difference. Otherwise why would they bother putting it in? It would just add cost.
I agree most of the mess in the intake comes from the pcv. That's another necessary system, but I can see how that combined with the EGR could make carbon build up. I also seem to get a lot more oil than normal in my intake (possibly because of the extra suction of the SC during boost?) so I just installed an oil catch can in my pcv line to see if that helps.
'97 Grand Prix GT 3800 (sold)
'00 Grand Am GT 3400 supercharged
13.788 @ 103.73 mph, 320whp 300 ft/lbs
Gotta love boost!
It's mainly for emmisions, not mpg. I don't know how much air it displaces if that makes up enough to lower your displacement any significant amount to in turn give you more mpg...
sigpicNew 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles 16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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