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UDP installation, how do you keep the crank from turning?

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  • #16
    Hmm that's a lot of work. I guess I can try the other ideas mentioned until something works hehe. I don't have the UDP yet, and won't put it on until after my manifolds are installed.

    Hmm, I do know of a person with an impact gun. I bet I could do it outside his place pretty quick, longest time would be to swap the belt (damn motor mount). How do I know it's tight with an impact gun?
    sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
    1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
    16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
    Original L82 Longblock
    with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
    Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

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    • #17
      Impact gun and an air regulator set at the right torque spec.

      Put the Regulator on the end of the hose and on the inlet of the fitting of the Impact.

      Adjust the air pressure to around spec. maybe a couple lbs higher.
      Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.

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      • #18
        Hmm that guy I know doesn't have a regulator... That's the catch.
        sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
        1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
        16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
        Original L82 Longblock
        with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
        Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

        Comment


        • #19
          just tighten it, with a good 1/2in impact untill it stopes moving. torque isn't that critical, just make sure it's tight,

          just a side not, when i got mine and was going to install it, the key way was too small, so i had to open it up to get it to go on. i think that took the longest time! and don't forget to get a belt thats 1-1 1/2 in smaller!
          2002 Pontiac GrandAm GT1
          3400 v6
          TOG headers
          RSM 62MM T-body
          FFP underdrive pulley
          GRANATELLI MAF
          Ported upper intake
          MSD DIS 4 ignition box
          MSD Wires and coils (pending)
          Venom high flow fuel pump (pending)

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          • #20
            swapping the belt really wasnt as difficult as i to had expected. just unbolt the mount, and the use a jackstand with a pretty thick piece of wood with a WIDE surface area as to not dent the oil pan, jack the motor up just enough to slip the belt through and not to accidentally tweak anything in the process, and for the belt tensioner a 3/8 socket wrench and a bar u can slip over the handle for extra leverage works great. once again be sure that all your belt grooves are line up with the pulley grooves of youll be wasting a belt once you crank it up.

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            • #21
              Heh, swaping the belt is easy, I've done that 3x before on L body 3100 cars. You can't use a 3/8 ratchet to get to the tensioner, the motor is too close to the engine bay. Now on W bodies you can. I use a serpintine tool for L bodies and it's super thin and barely fits. Maybe you could use a ratchet with the wheel off and splash gaurd out of the way, but usualy when mess with the tensinoer it's jsut to replace an alternator or belt not crankshaft pulley..
              sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
              1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
              16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
              Original L82 Longblock
              with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
              Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

              Comment

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