Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Plenum spacers?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    lol, I got the idea from a few pro-stock vehicles I've seen in the shop, I noticed it first a coupla years ago on our '65 GTO that's always in the door; wood spacers between the manifold and carburators keep them cooler and help fight vapor lock - works quite nicely, if I might say so; and on top of all that, lord is it a cheap mod!!!
    N-body enthusiast:
    {'87 Grand Am SE - 3.0 90* v6} / {'93 Grand Am LE - 3.3 90* v6}
    {'98 Grand Am SE - 2.4 Q4} / {'99 Grand Am GT1 - 3400 60* v6}

    Current Project:
    {'90 Chevrolet C1500 Sport 350TBI}

    Comment


    • #17
      cheap and easy to machine! You could smear on a layer of jb weld and sand it true too to help sealing. Do you have to use thread locker because the wood eventually smashes?
      sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
      1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
      16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
      Original L82 Longblock
      with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
      Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

      Comment


      • #18
        Naw, all I did was put the gaskets up and tighten down an extra 5 ft/lbs on the UIM bolts. I don't forsee any real problem in the near future with the spacers starting to collapse . . . and if they do it's not all that hard to make new ones . . . I doubt they'll crack or anything, plywood is fairly resilant.

        I used an extra set of UIM gaskets as a template, then cut the spacers out of te plywood, sanded all the edges nice and smooth, the hung them up and sprayed them with a few coats of water sealant, then a final coat of black paint (wood looks kind of odd beside aluminum!). Made sure they sat for a coupla days to ensure everything was dry-dry and bolted them in. Being sealed against moisture and exposed to the motors temps, they should never absord any type of moisture - which is the leading cause of wood-rot. No matter what, though, they were cheap!
        N-body enthusiast:
        {'87 Grand Am SE - 3.0 90* v6} / {'93 Grand Am LE - 3.3 90* v6}
        {'98 Grand Am SE - 2.4 Q4} / {'99 Grand Am GT1 - 3400 60* v6}

        Current Project:
        {'90 Chevrolet C1500 Sport 350TBI}

        Comment


        • #19
          You know for as easy as it would be to make those, I feel like making some myself! Heck if I had aluminum plate I'd cut it out myself too by hand. But I'd rather do the wood just for fun. I don't need no aluminum spacers. I wonder what's the max height you can raise the UIM before the hood clearance is a problem...
          sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
          1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
          16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
          Original L82 Longblock
          with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
          Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by IsaacHayes
            You know for as easy as it would be to make those, I feel like making some myself! Heck if I had aluminum plate I'd cut it out myself too by hand. But I'd rather do the wood just for fun. I don't need no aluminum spacers. I wonder what's the max height you can raise the UIM before the hood clearance is a problem...
            1"... been there.
            -Brad-
            89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
            sigpic
            Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

            Comment


            • #21
              Hmm 1" isn't going to gain you anything really. I guess a custom intake manifold is worth the work more than raising the plenum at least for changing the runners is concerned. For me I'll be shortening my runners with the 3500 plenum
              sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
              1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
              16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
              Original L82 Longblock
              with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
              Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

              Comment


              • #22
                yeah, I'm nowhere near an inch

                At least sitting in a lane or at a red light waiting a few minutes (heck-o-lot longer when at a traffic light) the UIM won't get too hot so quick. Wood is a great heat insulator, and trying to keep as much of the incoming air as cool as possible for as long as possible is what I'm trying to accomplish (along with the heat shield under the UIM). Seems to work though!
                N-body enthusiast:
                {'87 Grand Am SE - 3.0 90* v6} / {'93 Grand Am LE - 3.3 90* v6}
                {'98 Grand Am SE - 2.4 Q4} / {'99 Grand Am GT1 - 3400 60* v6}

                Current Project:
                {'90 Chevrolet C1500 Sport 350TBI}

                Comment


                • #23
                  I know people ice their plenum, and that seems to work. I suppose the plenum holds more air than the lower where the air is moving fast, and has more of a chance to warm it up. To keep your plenum really cold, disable and disconnect the EGR pipe too! That's gotta warm it up some!!
                  sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                  1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                  16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                  Original L82 Longblock
                  with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                  Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Considered it . . . but with the PCM controlled EGR and my 02 sensors still in working order, I know I'll get a DTC . . . even if I just blocked the EGR port.

                    If anyone has any ideas to disable the EGR without setting any DTC's, I'm open for suggestions!
                    N-body enthusiast:
                    {'87 Grand Am SE - 3.0 90* v6} / {'93 Grand Am LE - 3.3 90* v6}
                    {'98 Grand Am SE - 2.4 Q4} / {'99 Grand Am GT1 - 3400 60* v6}

                    Current Project:
                    {'90 Chevrolet C1500 Sport 350TBI}

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Yes, the digital EGR can't be fooled by any means. When I meant disable, that means editing the computer code. if you have a 94-95 3100 like me, then we are SOL on that though.
                      sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                      1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                      16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                      Original L82 Longblock
                      with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                      Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        When I had my regrind in, I never got any EGR codes. Even now, with a basically stock 3400, if I pay attention to my driving, I can drive without setting the EGR code.
                        -Brad-
                        89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
                        sigpic
                        Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          I could drive too without setting it, but it was a PITA, and you'd want to cruise and not be modulating the throttle all the time just to avoid the code..
                          So brad you don't have an EGR adapter on your 3400 right now?
                          sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                          1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                          16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                          Original L82 Longblock
                          with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                          Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Haven't had my EGR hooked up since I first fitted the large port manifold onto the old 3100. I don't even have it plugged in and sitting in the engine bay. It is actually in a box in my basement with the connector dangling...
                            -Brad-
                            89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
                            sigpic
                            Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by bszopi
                              Would you like me to send you the AutoCAD file? Might need a little work to get them to work flawlessly with a laser/waterjet, but I have the basic design already done.

                              Brad, Can you send me your CAD file? I will talk to my machinist about making a run of these.
                              1999 Grand Prix SE 3100
                              1997 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 Ext cab. 5.2L
                              1977 Dodge Power Wagon, Short bed, Fuel injected 360, 4spd, Dana 60's, Little Red Express bed.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Do you want me to fix it up or just send it as is? I should be able to get it ready in the next day or 2 if you want to wait.
                                -Brad-
                                89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
                                sigpic
                                Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X