Remote filter adaptor.

[geoffinbc]

Ok working on my remote filter installation yesterday and hit a huge snag. My spin on adaptor does not work. Physically it fits fine. But because you have to spin it to install it, it wont go on.

The adaptor is a 90* spin on adaptor like this.
The port holes you see there on the bottom stick out too far and hit a mounting boss (not engine mount) and also hit the bottom lip of the oil filter adaptor boss. I cannot use a spin on adaptor with straight out ports because the engine mount is is the way and I do not have the clearance.

What I need is a bolt on adaptor like this. http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/...te_filter.html
That is the exact part I need but I dont know where to buy it. Anyone know of a similar product?

[geoffinbc]

Well guys I was able to track down a dealer.

Soggin Dickey sells ever Canton product. Plus it was less than Canton's MSRP

https://www.sdpc2000.com/

I'll keep you all posted.

[TurboZ24]

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TRD%2D1050&N=400158+4294818392+4294908396+115&autoview=sku

Try that.

[geoffinbc]

No thats the one I was talking about that will hit the engine mount. The only way I could use it is if I attached it to the stock filter adaptor bracket. But I want to eliminate that bracket to reduce the amount of turns and passages the oil has to go through.

[TurboZ24]

Ah, didn't read about the motor mount bracket. That bracket would work fine on a FWD setup (I use it on mine and Steve's wagon).

[geoffinbc]

Yea FWD would be no sweat.

[hamondale]

BTY, copying post I just put up on S-S Org forum:

BTY, I had exactly that problem with my crate 3.4. I had no tranny brace, but I did have the block boss problem. I wondered HTF did they ever put a part out like this? I think my adapter was from Transdapt, it looks just like yours. The solution was not fun, but I did get it to work. Steps as I recall (6 years ago) as follows:
1. Ground off ALL of the material in the casting that stuck out too far, until the adapter would spin on and seat the O-ring. That amounts to a little bit on two of the ports and a LOT on the other two. The pipe threads left on those two were nowhere near enough to install fittings in, so...
2.) Got a 1/2" pipe tap and tapped those two ports way deeper so they could accept fittings in far enough. I use standard NPT/AN fittings to adapt to my oil hoses.
3.) Put it on the car, set up all the hoses, foolishly installed the header and everything else there, turned the engine over and discovered that it pissed oil all over. The POS casting was full of pores too small to see easily, but the oil found its way thru them.
4.) Removed headers, hoses, adapter, etc. cleaned up the mess, solvent cleaned the adapter. Smeared JB Weld on the newly tapped thereads and retapped them. Smeared thin coat (~1/16") of JB Weld all over the leaking surface on the outside.
5.) Reinstalled. Has worked fine for 6 years.
This job sucked. But with my setup I had absolutely no other choice. See a ways down at http://tinyurl.com/5a92d
Unfortunately, you can't see the adapter much. BTW, my oil hoses are practically touching my headers. I had teflon/braided SS hoses made up at a hydraulic shop, and I have a double sleeve of braided ceramic insulation over them, and then wrapped with woven glass/aluminum tape they use to wrap headers and stuff. Since the teflon is good up towards 500F, I think I'm ok. No problem so far.
HTH