15-20psi/400 whp

[PCGUY112887]

Say you wanted to throw 15-20psi towards a junkyard low milage 3400. What all would need to be done to have it run safe aside from new gaskets, new headbolts, and forged pistons?

Thanks.

[BlackJack]

To be honest, I woulnd't throw 15-20psi at a JY motor regardless of the mileage without going through it anyway. Just never know how that "low mileage" was treated.

first thing you're going to have to bolt onto the back end of the engine is.....

a very heavily built tranny. That's the first thing I'd install.

You need much larger injectors (than stock), better fuel pump, FPR, colder plugs, a powrtuner, boost guage, FP guage, A/F guage (the last two aren't required, but I recommend)

Personally, I would throw in some better rods as well, just because I like overkill.

and that's just for starters....feel free to tack more on, somebody.

[1988GTU]

Some good tuning, fuel unit upgrade (reg., pump, & injectors).
Complete rebuild would be nice (new bearings, turned crank, better cam etc etc) .














.02

[TurboZ24]

A RWD chassis, a good tranny (TKO, T-56, built 700R4), a limited slip Diff.......

[bszopi]

http://60degreev6.com/discussion/kb.php?mode=article&k=72

[PCGUY112887]

Hey thanks for that link bszopi. I guess I should go into details a bit more.

This whole idea came after comming across this.

http://www.donkeypunchperformance.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67&products_id=204

I figured that it would be a great project for me to get a JY 3400, strip it down and learn how to do a rebuild. (i've never done engine internals before but I figure if I can't get it I can find someone to help me). Find some papers on it and such and put it all back together correctly with the forged pistons and such and some of the things that come with the kit. Then put it in place of my 3100 (another learning experience) and do the tuning and work in the intercooler and such. Then have the tranny rebuilt for race applications.

I may just be dreaming and doing engine internals may be much harder than I think, but I figured if I bought an engine and started to rip it down and decide I can't do this myself either get help or sell the engine for parts or make a table out of it...

[tejohnson]

Hey thanks for that link bszopi. I guess I should go into details a bit more.

This whole idea came after comming across this.

http://www.donkeypunchperformance.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67&products_id=204

I figured that it would be a great project for me to get a JY 3400, strip it down and learn how to do a rebuild. (i've never done engine internals before but I figure if I can't get it I can find someone to help me). Find some papers on it and such and put it all back together correctly with the forged pistons and such and some of the things that come with the kit. Then put it in place of my 3100 (another learning experience) and do the tuning and work in the intercooler and such. Then have the tranny rebuilt for race applications.

I may just be dreaming and doing engine internals may be much harder than I think, but I figured if I bought an engine and started to rip it down and decide I can't do this myself either get help or sell the engine for parts or make a table out of it...

If I can do it... Anyone can Course I'm not quite done yet... I'm doing some more work on the lifter galley this evening. If it is a JY block, check to see that the motor is in "decent" shape. Look to see if the heads a fairly clean on the sides. IMO heavy oil "trails" show neglect and possibly may have some excessively worn bottom end components due to lack of attention. (This is what I would look for anyways)

Have it bored with a torque plate and get the block surfaced (if you are going to spend the $$$ on forged pistons). These are only my opinions tho...

[TurboZ24]

I guess I could be a little more serious then.

In my experience, the stock head gaskets don't hold up. I blew mine out at 16 psi (long time ago, engine was producing less HP).

As for the comment that I run stock bolts on the rods, no I don't. My crower SBC rods came with ARP rod bolts. I also run ARP head studs.

Tranny.

The manual isn't going too hold up. It might be ok if you go with a full LSD (1200-1400 bucks) or weld the differential up (race only). As for an auto, the price I was quoted was 2000.00 for a converter + rebuilding the auto(125C or 4T60), but you are still stuck with an open differential. If you use aftermarket engine management, you are stuck with a manual valve body tranny (non-electronic), unless you are also willing too spend 700 for a tranny controller.

Axles.

Even my Driveshaft Shop stage 3 axles break, racing is a huge risk. They only break with the slicks on, but without the slicks, the car get's no traction.

Traction.

I barely get traction when I set the boost at 7 psi (310 wheel HP). It still smokes the tires up to around 60 mph. When I raise it too 16 (430 wheel HP), forget it.

I usually suggest too most people if you intend too make this a street car, keep the max wheel HP in the high 200's/ low 300's. Oh, and you are going too need some nice stiff suspension too handle the HP, helps keep the car on the ground and prevents wheel hop.

[El_Diablo]

what kind of car do you have?



a heavier car should handle the traction problems better........

[TurboGt]

I barely get traction when I set the boost at 7 psi (310 wheel HP). It still smokes the tires up to around 60 mph. When I raise it too 16 (430 wheel HP), forget it.

Do you have a dyno sheet? I checked out your web page very nice.

[AaronGTR]

what kind of car do you have?



a heavier car should handle the traction problems better........

Thats about it right there. A lighter car is supposed to be faster, especially in the top end, but traction and getting a good launch have a bigger effect on ET's because you get up to speed faster.

That's why I tell most people a grand am will never be as fast as a grand prix in the quarter. The GP is 300lbs heavier, much of which is over the front axle, and they have a longer wheel base which puts more leverage against weight transfer. No matter what you do to a GA it won't have the same potential simply because of the dynamics of the design. That's why I'm not shooting for anything more than 300whp in my car.

A GA will be faster on a road course though.

[eliteweapons]

Hey Turboz24 there is an option for the electronic tranny controls. Powertrain control solutions has a controller that is fully programable with outputs that can be used for various things like shift lights, retard, etc. and also has an option to use paddle shifting. Does the z-24 use the same style axles as the beretta? I need an upgrade on my axles as well.

[TurboZ24]

Hey Turboz24 there is an option for the electronic tranny controls.

That's why I mentioned the 700+ dollars for the tranny controller. I know there is one out there, it's just pricy.

Does the z-24 use the same style axles as the beretta?

Yes, it does. The real issue is the CV's. Sure you can get them hardened/cryo'ed and moly internal parts, but too get an actual chromemoly CV housing, that's way expensive. That's what usually breaks on mine, the outer CV housings or the CV guts.

I do have a dyno sheet, but It's only got the 7 psi run on it. I did intend too go back too get some retune, and another 7 psi, 15-16 psi, and a 20-25 psi run in, but since I'm not racing anymore, I really don't want too spend 300-500 on the dyno time and tuning until I find an approperate replacement chassis.

[TurboGt]

I do have a dyno sheet, but It's only got the 7 psi run on it.

Could you post it up here??

[Luciano]

wait how much boost can the stock crank take