Originally posted by BillS
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Originally posted by SuperdaveOriginally posted by BillSGiven the low redline on the engine I am sure you can get away with some stock lifters.sigpic
1993 Cavalier Z24, 3.1/3400 hybrid, crane 272 cam, LS6 springs,port and polish,2.5 exhaust to 80 series flowmaster,solid mounts
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Originally posted by Synso you have to use the gen II lifters correct?
BTW, I can't see that going to boost makes any difference. If the engine were a 7000 RPM screamer, you'd want to look at the best anti-pump up lifters. For the rather mundane 5500 - 6000 that most of the V-6s run, it isn't a big problem.
I'll let you know how the 272 works out - in my application (sub-2000 pound car) I am happy to give up some low end torque in the interest of keeping the MG diff in one piece. In a Fiero, or more so in a heavy Camaro, you'd want to hang onto that torque, I would think.
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Has anyone attempted too swap the Gen III block back too a flat tappet cam? Isn't the bearing section at the timing chain cover area different, due too the thrust plate on the 3rd Gen vs 2nd Gen?
Why would you use a Gen III block instead of a Gen II if you want too run a flat tappet cam?
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Originally posted by TurboZ24
Why would you use a Gen III block instead of a Gen II if you want too run a flat tappet cam?
Plus on the Crane cam you lose the bump for the cam position sensor if you are running SFI (or at least I believe you do)
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Yes you do loose it. That cam will not operate the SFI. The cam however should work without any problems in the block. The Gen III block does have advantages over genII. Priority main oiling is a big one. There is also the cross bolts in the mains aswell which helps to stabalize the bottom end.
If it were me though I would not give up the roller cam. I would get a regrind. It would be cheeper and be more powerful.1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
Because... I am, CANADIAN
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Originally posted by betterthanyouYes you do loose it. That cam will not operate the SFI. The cam however should work without any problems in the block. The Gen III block does have advantages over genII. Priority main oiling is a big one. There is also the cross bolts in the mains aswell which helps to stabalize the bottom end.
If it were me though I would not give up the roller cam. I would get a regrind. It would be cheeper and be more powerful.
true... but after seeing how flimsy the stock cam is (since mine is in 2 pieces) i want something a little more solid.
the oiling is part of the reason i didn't build a hybrid, also i wanted the larger displacement and an overall newer block.
the flat tappet cam will work fine in the 3400 block, i'll need custom pushrods (probably the same size as the hybrid would use) and a cam button. I have a few of those laying around from some other projects tho...
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The cam aint flimsy. Your cam broke because it siezed in the bearings. You dont think a cast iron cam would do the same?
It was either the cam or the chain that was going to break.1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
Because... I am, CANADIAN
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I know people talk about the 3 oil galleries and the cross bolted mains, but I've had no issues with my Gen II block.
As for a thrust button, you don't need one on a flat tappet cam, the lifters themselves keep the cam in position. You can add one if you really feel like it. Take a SBC needle bearing thrust button, machine it down some, get the locker plate for a SBC (it bolts right up too the 3.1 cam sprocket). That's what I run.
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If you get a new cam from CamMotion, it is a solid core instead of the hollow. And then you can get whatever specs you want for it.-Brad-
89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
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Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog
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