I was recently out in Indiana getting my engine tuned wi th the 3500upper intake mated to a '00 4.3Vortec 70mm tb. The TBadaptor is provided by speeddemon1312@yahoo.com. Well the difficulties included a leaking egr on the biggest port, and that resulted in fouled plugs due to such hard starting in the cold weather. The sad thing is that this egr has been leaking since the last time I had the car tuned. We were having problems with startup, the engine would idle and then die. Anyways the car did a best 15.4 last summer and that was with the old setup with a leaking egr on the big port. With these problems solve Ben was able to quicky get the car in tune for my dyno appointment....oh let me add that I broke my hood release handle and cable due to the freezing cold..... Anyways I'm happy to say that even with a foot of snow on the ground, I was able to to slide my way to the Shop, Exotic Performance Plus in Columbia City, Indiana. They used to be in Fort Wayne. A great group of people work there and there prices are pretty good. $180 for an hour and tie down, with that I got about 7 or 8 runs with wideband. Anyways the gains for the hour are pretty good, at elast I thought so. Peak gains were 10 hp and 10 ft-lbs. Average gains were 24 hp and 16 ft-lbs. the machine didn't print the highest number as it was to be so I filled it in. We'er looking at 171hp@5950 and 185ft-lbs@2600. Granted the numbers low but Mustang dynos do show lower numbers but they are great for there consistancy. With that Ben was able to effectively tune the engine. Alittle more time couldv'e been used but tfor th emoney you can't go wrong. I wasn't worried about the hardware..YET....as the driveline was all running cool and nothing out of the ordinary was wrong. I've said thast installing the 3500 intake made the engine very torquey well now its even more so. The throttle needs to treated like a NEW egg. By liberally romping on it, say 25% open, you'll light up the front end in a split second, its that responsive. Also it now chrips the tires on a 1-2 shift floored or any down shift into 1. The graph shows the production. The range of power, at 6844 the engine is still flat lining, kinda drops for a second and recurves up. We didn't get a graph up to 7000 but at least I know that there is power to had up there if I get the right hardware and alter the heads. Yeah these are Stock heads too. Reground cam with way too much lift....And Iron head pistons. Essentially alot stock parts. Anyways hands down this engine is much faster than it used to be and like the most responsive NA N6 I've ever driven. So once again ignoring te lowish numbers I think its fair to predict better numbers at the track. In all fairness, the engine with the older upper manifold did ok after a few months after tuning. I can only assume the engine finaly broke in as the motor did feel a bit more torquey. Anyways IMO this is the power band to have. Stellar bottom end that doesn't quit and a range all the way to 7000. I did do one test I probably shouldn've done but, I ran the car before to 140 and it was still pulling. Did that again after tuning and it was now pulling harder. Things really get too fast for me to go any faster(duh) at that speed but it shocked the shit out of me that this little pushrod engine had enough power to move a car weiging (with me and all my stuff) 3700+ lbs to that speed and still accelerate. Yeah I'm proud of that little engine till today....... Engine developed a rod knock this morning. 5 things make me think as to why, 2 are questionable and I might be paranoid....#1 constant fuel contamination due to the hard starting and stalling. #2 HV pump washed out my bearings. #3 Hard starting with cold oil in the cold weather accelerated the process this week, #4 K and N filter not filtering????, #5 Synthetic oil??? I've noticed for about a month, when I lug the engine the oil pressure drops about 5-10 psi. This has happend to me before and the crank went south. Shortly after when I replaced it the engine become more powerfull...I guess when this happens the crank literally moves away from the crank sensor there by throwing off ever so slightly the timnig signal, replacing the crank should yet give me even more power. I will rebuild. Why? I don't know... because I'm crazy enough to love my car enough.....The performance was starting to kick ass, my 4T60E transmission (that I rebuilt) kicks serious ass, and the engine gets 33mpg avg on the plains!!!! The exhaust is new and it's 2.5 inch from manifold to mufflers mandrel bent thick aluminized pipes with Gibson Stainless steel rectangle slash cut trucky tips(I remember someone asking me if I had a Gibson exhaust, I laughed and said well that would be a nice but hell hasn't frozen over yet) bolted to Hooker Aero Chamber Mufflers that sounds imo perfect, suspension is very good, and the brakes work, A/C is ice cold, its a great car for running cross country and for tearing up NYC with....I love it I need to fix it. Yeah I can buy another car, but they don't sound like this(like a Tug Boat at cruise and like the Red Baron at WOT) and have full gauges!!!!! I got dyno videos the will need to be posted. Well.. I guess I'll go and get that Camaro legal. Not for nothing I do need alittle V8 in my life right now....Despite the snow and ice.....LOL ANYONE HAVE A GOOD SOUND CRANKSHAFT SO I CAN BEAT MY ENGINE WITH IT??? HAHA you thought I was going to install it!!! GUESS AGAIN!! HAHAHAHAHAHA!!!! Oh christ I'm losing it....Someone call Calgon to take me away!!!
Dyno Sheets- http://60degreev6.com/backup/Lorenzo/Lorenzo%20Dyno/
Dyno Videos. All pulls made from 30 to 125 mph in 3rd gear which is 1:1.
Dyno Sheets- http://60degreev6.com/backup/Lorenzo/Lorenzo%20Dyno/
Dyno Videos. All pulls made from 30 to 125 mph in 3rd gear which is 1:1.
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