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Nothing perverted, just thought I'd show off my latest attempt at trying something I really don't know how to do.
Sorry the pic isn't better, garage lighting isn't the best.
Thanks!
Yeah, I was thinking that I need to match them all up, since I'm doing the work anyways.
Actually, now that you mention it, do you know how close to matching weight they are stock? Or are they even close?
If i had my pistons pressed out on the 3100 rods/pistons carl gave me, I could tell you what they all measure stock and see the variance. Hell, i gotta go to the machine shop tomorrow anyway so ill see what they charge to press the pins out.
I started to polish a set a long time ago but stopped because I was afraid id make it too thin somewhere or not balanced perfect (the rod itself, not between each other). After seeing some pictures though of other polished stock rods, it seems you don't have to touch every section of the rod.
my rods varied about 10 grams total weight, once i beam polished them and put the arp bolts in they were 8 grams in difference.
getting the total weight the same isnt whats important, its end-end weight. what i recomend is finding a balancing shop and having the entire rotating assembly balanced. my motor only cost $125, and my balancer goes to 1/10 of a gram. its the best money i spent on the motor. even with one solid mount and 2 polly mounts, the motor runs smooth and doesnt hardly vibrate at idle. it also goes a long way to stop harmonic vibrations in the engine that lead to premature wear.
Its best to have each rod/piston combo as close to equal in weight as the others. Balancing of course is a must for anyone concerned with longevity and a smooth running motor, but to say that the difference between rods doesn't matter isn't how I would approach it.
Sharkey does have the right point. The more important issue is the end to end weight of the rods. Balancing just based on "Weight" is not the right approach, Ballancing each Rod end with the proper Rod weighing tool is the only way to do it. If you ballance the rods BE and SE all the same weights you will end up with the rods being within a gram or less of each other.
Just taking and grinding material off the BE to match them is not the right way to do it.
Colin
92 Sunbird GT, 3200 Hybrid 13.99@ 95.22 (2004)
90 Eagle Talon TSi AWD 10.54 @ 129mph.
Here's the finished polish job.
This is the first time I've done this, so if you guys have any input, let me have it.
Next I'll polish the pistons, and then send the whole thing out for balancing.
Ive wondered if the tab on the big end can be ground off. Where the caps join that is, on the small part that comes off there is a tab that sticks out. Could reduce some windage if that was removed, possibly.
Not 100%, but I don't think so. I think they're needed for the rod balancing.
Definately would be nice to grind them smooth if it didn't throw off the balance.
Hmmm..... I may look into getting some equipment for balancing rods. With as many projects as I have right now, it would probably pay for itself in no time.
Those rods are gleaming! well i'm sure the machinst will weight match them right for you. I'd go ahead and round off the tops. Other than balancing the only other thing I can think of is that they might add stability to the upper loop....
Lorenzo
'11 DODGE Challenger R/ T Classic 57M6 Green with Envy "Giant Green Squid"
'92 PONTIAC Grand Prix SE 34TDCM5 "Red Lobster"
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