Anyone running a solid cam?

[Doward]

Yeah, the later blocks are MUCH better than the early ones.

The reason for a larger intake vs exhaust duration is because like 80% of the turbo setups out there on the street are designed for very quick boost - LOTS of backpressure. I went the other way, and built this as a low backpressure, high rpm beast. So I can get away with more exhaust vs intake duration.

Always remember, look at your engine as a SYSTEM, and make sure all parts complement each other!

[X11_STE]

doward, sorry for hijacking your thread. I agree the later blocks are better but I would rather machine my early block because its got the very nice exhaust that wraps UNDER the engine and sadly the oil pan wont interchange with with later blocks. Having the exhaust going under the engine equals more power and will allow me to run a custom true dual exhaust w/ sidepipes. I am not planning on using a turbo (its not in the "period" of style I want) so thats not an issue. Basicly, I want to build a high RPM NA motor. The 2.8 is a basic grunt motor that has great low end torque and so I want to enhance the top end and a solid cam sounds like a relatively easy way to do it.

[1QUICKHATCH]

this is what happend when I spun a rod bearing on my 2.8 and tryed to make it home! it was the orginal block in my 83 firbird!

[Doward]

Hey, Curtis - any problems with knock sensor going mad with teh solid cam? Also, what lash are you running, if you don't mind me asking?

[TurboZ24]

Lash is .022" and .020". I don't have a knock with the haltech (you just program it correctly), so no issues with that.

Now if only the tranny would survive...... Blew out another one.

[Doward]

Ouch, that always sucks. At least I always have the option of a T56

[fivepointhustla]

That Crower 03065 cam mentioned in the first few posts seems weak. the lift is barely better than stock. i went with a the comp cams 260 in my 3.1. powerband is 1k-5k. The lift is .440 in/out. I plan on 1.52 rollers but if you add 1.6 rollers you get .470 lift.