Torker II Intake ID

[Kreb]

it looks like the edelbrock base would will the workability contest.

But how? I've heard that the walls are pretty thin, and won't take much porting before blowing out.

[Arns85GT]

Porting a good design?

it looks like the edelbrock base would will the workability contest.

But how? I've heard that the walls are pretty thin, and won't take much porting before blowing out.

Having installed one, and ported my heads to go with it, I can tell you that you don't want to port the Edelbrock intake. It is designed well and is engineered. This isn't an engineering job to satisfy California's emissions requirements, as oft happens to Detroit designs, it is designed for performance.

This is the reason I ran into trouble with it using an open top spacer. The runner lengths and volumes are pretty well maxed out and not to be played with. The 4 hole phenolic spacer works.

That being said, I still don't fully understand the left side narrow runners. I've been told it increases the speed of the air/fuel mixture at lower speeds, but I am not an engineer to really understand the science.

That being said, I would port a GM intake in a heartbeat because they are often designed for economy or emissions and compromise performance. Edelbrock is the antithesis of Detroit in this respect and is made specifically to max out your engine's abilities.

Arn

[Doubt_Incarnate]

i was talking about the top side, i should have mentioned that i guess. it looks like it would be easier to make your own top for the edelbrock base than the offy.

[spaceman]

I have the torker II set up with the Holley 390 carb on my 83 Firebird 2.8 and am interested tuning information.


What size main jets you are running in your set up. I am currently running the carb right out of the box...no mods. I believe it has #50 jets in it. Also, any tips on secondary springs

my engine is set up as follows: rebuilt 12/04 with 2.8 balanced rotating assembly, hypereutetic pistons +.040, HP Cam (205/216 duration), MSD w/blaster coil, roller rockers(1:1.52). I also found a set of headman longtube headers on e-bay and will install soon; after the threat of Wilma passes...will tie these into existing 2.5" exhaust (dynomax dual outlet muffler ). I am also running a non-ecm distributor from an S-10....(any tips on springs and weights and initial timing??? )

bottom end is great, and engine spins up quickly to 4K RPM but then seems flat...

Any suggestions to improve engine performance is appreciated...

(I live in Tampa FL area)

[Arns85GT]

here are the tuning specs you asked for

First off the distributor.

I have the same one. I did attempt to set it up myself, but I did not do well. I took it to a reliable speed shop that has the re-curving equipment.

It is set to 10* initial advance with 25* in the distributor when you combine the weights and vacuum pot.

If your vacuum is wrong or your weights/springs are wrong, you will lose top end advance. That could be your lack of top end.

________

The 390 cfm carb will give you all the engine can handle and more, as will the Torker II which flows at 410 cfm. The engine will breath somewhere around 360 cfm.

I found that the stock Torker II dual plane top caused my engine to lose a little bottom end torque, but I gained probably 500+ rpm of usable torque at the top. It pulled real strong to 6000 rpm. I didn't push it past that point.

When I added the Mr. Gasket 4 hole phenolic spacer, my bottom end torque picked right up and I lost about 400 useable rpm at the top end. This was not a problem to me because the car needs the oomph in it's working rpms, not top end for my usage.

I have the carb set up as follows:

#49 jets (the stock jets ran a little rich)
orange accellerator pump cam set to hole #1
#31 anti-pullover shooter
3/8" fuel line
6 psi fuel pressure
K&N 14" air filter

This setup gives good spark plug colour, and smooth response throughout the working rpm.

Good luck with yours. I hope this helps out.

I forgot, I use the lightest yellow vacuum advance spring. The heavier springs will delay your secondaries. This could be another reason for weak top end response.

[donk_316]

RE: here are the tuning specs you asked for

Your still runnning #49s on your 2.8? Hmm i would have thought that to be too rich. I was considering going as low as #45-#47 on my 3.4L before i tossed it all for EFI.

[Arns85GT]

RE: here are the tuning specs you asked for

Well, I thought about those too Donk.

My spark plug colour has been real good and I don't seem to be rich. Of course the 2.8 is really a fully ported 2.9 with 1.6 rockers so it is breathing a whole lot better than stock

I had alot of low end problems that were directly caused by an undiagnosed bad MSD 6200. But once they were sorted out (as in ditch the 6200) the car has been running real well.

Arn

[spaceman]

RE: here are the tuning specs you asked for

Thanks for the tuning information...I'll give the "49's and the yellow spring a try. Also, I gather the 1.6 rockers are no problem with your cam, yes?

again thanks for the info, any other tips would be appreciated

[Arns85GT]

RE: here are the tuning specs you asked for

My 1.6's are actually roller tips. You should most properly get the conversion studs for them, however, I have it on good authority they will work with the existing studs. I didn't take the chance due to the differences in setup. The 1.6's adjust per SBC specs.

You wiggle them up and down until there is no more play, and then tighten 1/4 to 1/2 turn. I put in new hydraulic lifters and did 1/4 turn on the conversion studs and it worked well.

I used the Haynes procedure of setting each lifter to BDC.

Good luck