Electric Water pump?

[blackbombshell95]

I'm sure this has been asked before. Is there one available? for the 3x00

[geoffinbc]

No. Unles you fabricate a remote mount setup then yes.

Worth it? Not it a million years. Belt drives have worked flawlessley since the beginning.

[sharkey]

if you are racing, then they are worth it. basicly fab up a bracket and use a small 12 volt motor to run it. however for this setup, im assuming you would also run not alternator and a dual battery setup, and this would be in a full out race car.

not worth it for the street, there isnt much gain from not turning the water pump.

[geoffinbc]

You would need something to connect/mate to the timing cover which will connect hoses to the holes in the blocks water jacket.

[sharkey]

this is what i mean for doing an electric water pump.



thats a moroso kit for a 4.3l v6/ v8 chevy. it converts a mechanical pump to electric. you would be able to use the motor from that, fab up a bracket, and figure out a belt or make an adaptor to mount that pulley to a 3x00 pump.

[geoffinbc]

Ha ha thats hokey. LOL never seen such a POS. If you wana do it right you need a porper remote mount pump and motor.

[Guest]

Ha ha thats hokey. LOL never seen such a POS. If you wana do it right you need a porper remote mount pump and motor.

betterthanyou, sometimes it amazes me just how sheltered you are when it comes to performance parts and techniques.

Moroso, Mr. Gasket and a handful of other companies have had that exact electric water pump drive for decades. It works VERY well, and has for a very long time.

That set-up will fit on a genII or III 660 with minimal modification. The pulley is very close to fitting right out of the box, the locating hole needs to be slightly enlarged and 4 of the bolt holes, either sloted or new one drilled. Oh it also has to be put on "backwards". Flipped around from how it gets installed on a S/BBC.

If I don't use an adjustable cam timing set, I will most likley use that very water pump drive on an upcoming build.

[GinoBeats]

Interesting, I've thought about this for a few years just never really put any effort into it.

[blackbombshell95]

I was planning, that if i was able to to bypass the water pump, then i could easily by pass the ac compressor and get a smaller serpentine belt that would actually line up properly.

[geoffinbc]

Ha ha thats hokey. LOL never seen such a POS. If you wana do it right you need a porper remote mount pump and motor.

betterthanyou, sometimes it amazes me just how sheltered you are when it comes to performance parts and techniques.

Moroso, Mr. Gasket and a handful of other companies have had that exact electric water pump drive for decades. It works VERY well, and has for a very long time.

That set-up will fit on a genII or III 660 with minimal modification. The pulley is very close to fitting right out of the box, the locating hole needs to be slightly enlarged and 4 of the bolt holes, either sloted or new one drilled. Oh it also has to be put on "backwards". Flipped around from how it gets installed on a S/BBC.

If I don't use an adjustable cam timing set, I will most likley use that very water pump drive on an upcoming build.

No man that thing looks like shit. Honestly what are you going to gain? You are goin to change energy 3 times and each time you will loose power to inefficiency. You have to go from mechanical (engine) to electrical (alternator) back to mechanical (pump) rather that just running a belt from one pulley to the other off the crank. The only difference an electric setup offers is a constant pump speed. This in itself doesn't even make sense since the harder and faster the motor is working the harder and faster the cooling system should work. Power comes from somewhere its not free. So electric or mechanical pump they will both draw the same energy (the electric one will use more infact because of all teh energy changes) for a given output. So if you are worried about that mechanical pump taking too much power away at teh top end then run a larger pulley on the end of your pump.

Sorry but for what it gives in return for your investment it aint worth it. Along with that you have a big ugly bracket sticking off your engine and a motor that looks like it came from a vacuum cleaner.

This is a real remote mount electric water pump setup

[Guest]

Betterthanyou seriously step back for a bit. It HAS been proven that the motor pictured above does free up between 3 and 8 Crank HP, depending on the efficiancy of the pump to start with. Most water pumps take between 5 and 10 HP to run, so if I can add that to the crank HP, by all means I will.

Also I emplor you to stop and think about how hypocritical you are in saying that there is any less in the way of "energy changes" using the pupm you have pictured. Lets see here:

Yours:
Battery -> motor -> mechanical pump

The ectric drive pictured above:
Battery -> motor -> mechanical pump

Comprehension > you

[geoffinbc]

No it does not come from the battery. The alternator provides all power to an electrical system when a motor is running. Once you put a drain on the system that drain is filled by the alternator. The alternator gets power from the motor and that same power taken to turn an electric pump is taken right from the crank. ENERGY COMES FROM SOMEWHERE. You load up that elecrical system and you load up the alternator.

A family friend of mine dropped in a set of Kicker 12's with a 1000 watt amp and 4 coax speakers running of a 500 watt amp and when he would come to a stop with the stereo cranked you could watch the RPM's drop and then wait for the IAC to open up and save the motor from stalling.

Don't talk to me about comprehension.

Do you know why it shwoed a prove HP gain? Because they compared 2 motors at high RPM. And while at say 6000RPM the motor with a mechanical pump will have a pump spinning its balls off at around 5000 (give or take depending on pulley) while the electric one is still spinning at the same RPM it was back at idle. Thus why I said FOR A GIVEN FLOW each pump takes the same energy to turn. That energy always comes right off the crank because gasoline is the starting point of all the energy onboard a car. I dont give a shit what it is. Even headlights rob horsepower is you really want to get technical.

The only way this is not true is if you are not running an alternator and charge your vehicle between runs at the track. But wait where did the electric water pump get its energy to run? Oh yea the god damn Honda generator sitting in the pit lane. A battery is only a temporary storage device, its not free energy.

Im not comparight your pump to the pump I posted. Im stating how an electrical pump gets its energy and saying it is not worth it. I am also saying that first setup looks hokey and the one I posted is the way to do it right.

[futuretgp'er]

betterthanyou could you explain how a headlight could "rob horsepower"........as long as your ignition is still getting proper power, you headlights will never hurt performance/HP.........i don't see how you came up with that.......it draws more energy but its not directly drawing that engergy away from the actuall engine....the only engery lost to run headlights is through the parasitic drag on the engine caused by the alternator.....but you don't loose more power by simply turning your headlights on...

[Guest]

LOL, you're explaining to me that the car runs off the alternator? HAHAHAHAHA It's my job to know that.....

I used "battery" because it's easiest to understand.

You're comparing a high current draw (stereo) to a low current draw (electric pump)....

The point I had, was the EXACT SAME ENGINE, on the same day, on a dyno, only change was the change from crank driven to electrically driven pump and gain crank HP, so where is the draw back here? You obviously think there is some grandious difference between an electric pump like the one you have pictured and an electric water pump drive, other than looks or install.

You eluded to another point about making power (this IS the PERFORMANCE forum after all), high RPM, where most water pumps cavitate, meaning the flow of coolant pretty much stops and starts to take more power away from the crank. A water pump spinning at constant RPM has a better chance to cool the engine properly, since cavitation would be either kept at a minimum or not happen at all.

Either way of pumping fluid is correct, both do the exact same function, in the same fashion, one just converts an existing pump, the other is a whole new pump.

Another benifit with an electric pump is that you can leave it running without the engine running to cool the engine between runs.

So in closing, yes there will be a slightly higher draw on the alternator, that will cause a slight loss in HP but not near as much as runing teh pump off the crank.

[v6h.o.]

You eluded to another point about making power (this IS the PERFORMANCE forum after all), high RPM, where most water pumps cavitate, meaning the flow of coolant pretty much stops and starts to take more power away from the crank. A water pump spinning at constant RPM has a better chance to cool the engine properly, since cavitation would be either kept at a minimum or not happen at all.

Either way of pumping fluid is correct, both do the exact same function, in the same fashion, one just converts an existing pump, the other is a whole new pump.

Another benifit with an electric pump is that you can leave it running without the engine running to cool the engine between runs.

So in closing, yes there will be a slightly higher draw on the alternator, that will cause a slight loss in HP but not near as much as runing teh pump off the crank.

Agree'd. The two points on cavitaion and off engine fluid flow are the two main reasons I've been wanting to change mine to an electric for sometime now. If only I'd get off my ass and do it at some point. :shrug


This is like the arguments between guys from Mechanical engine fans to Electric engine fans.