ARP Studs

[RacerX11]

I ordered my aluminum head studs directly from ARP last year. It was somewhere ~$180. They do sell directly to the public. I will try to dig up my receipt with the pricing info, and who I worked with. There had been some part numbers posted on GMForums for the aluminum heads, but a couple of the numbers weren't right. Ordering direct from ARP isn't necessarily quicker, since the half metric, half SAE studs are kind of oddballs. When I ordered, they were out of stock on the studs, and I had to wait a month or so for them to make another production run.

Marty

[z284pwr]

Ok, I did some checking on summit racing. And I ended up having to call ARP to get the correct part numbers. If you want to use ARP head studs in place of the stock head bolts that bolt the cylinder heads to the block, THESE ARE THE PART NUMBERS YOU NEED.

long stud (11x1.5mm bottom threads w/ 7/16"x20 top threads)- ATP5.400-1LUB
short stud (11x1.5mm bottom w/ 7/16x20 top)- ATP4.650-1LUB
12point nut (7/16x20 thread)- 300-8333
washer (7/16 I.D.- 13/16 O.D.)- 200-8530

The lady at ARP told me if you call summit racing and give them those ARP part numbers that they will be able to order you exactly what you need.


EDIT: just called summit. 2-3days for the washers and nuts. 2-3weeks on the studs because they don't stock them. Aaaaaahhhhhh! Can't wait that long. I ordered them but they'll have to wait until the next time I tear the engine down. Total cost was $227.

I have 6-point nuts on mine?

Note the notches in the heads as well....

[AaronGTR]

I have 6-point nuts on mine?

Note the notches in the heads as well....

Hmmm... that's strange. Why are your nuts recessed like that? on my heads the surface is flat there. Anyway, the lady at ARP said the twelve point nuts had a smaller outside diameter so they will fit in a tighter space and you can use a smaller socket, so I ordered the twelve points. Should work fine.

[RacerX11]

z284pwr,
It looks like they used the iron head stud kit on your engine. The aluminum heads use longer studs. Milling a hole in the head to recess the shorter iron head studs sounds scary if you ask me. It will affect how the clamping load is distributed through the head casting.

Marty

[Invasion1]

Sweet!!!!!!!!!!

thanks for the Part#'s

im getting some tomorow

Cheers
Dave

[feavs]

feavs i thought you told me that after you finding the right lenth of bolt for the "long" head stud from ARP, they were going to use the lenth you used and the other stud from the Iron head kit to make an aluminum head stud kit??

thats what i was making refrence to as per ARP having an aluminum head kit now. thought after you and mev sorted the lenths out they were going to offer those to the public??
or am i wrong on this?

opps i forgot to update you on this. I didn't explain everything 100% to mev in the first place, and we got mixed up on how many I actually needed to be longer. He was going to piece the kit together himself (using pieces from both kits), but once they were ordered, and shipped, I re-explained everything, and it turned out I needed both kits.

There is also some fitment issues. I have the pics on my site, but they don't show it well. I had to cut one stud down, as it would not allow the rocker to seat properly. There were about 4 others that were very close, but I didn't need to grind them down.

So unfortunatley, as far as I know, there is no kit for our engines. Like I mentioned earlier, I used the iron kit (long studs only), and a kit for a honda. I should try and find the box to see what car its actually for.


feavs

https://www.feavs.com

[RebelGT]

RebelGT... it would help if you told people which engine you're talking about. Since peoples replies seem to be talking about 10 different things, I don't think they understood what you were asking exactly.

brad answered my question months ago, i didn't think it mattered

[v6h.o.]

RebelGT... it would help if you told people which engine you're talking about. Since peoples replies seem to be talking about 10 different things, I don't think they understood what you were asking exactly.

brad answered my question months ago, i didn't think it mattered

LOL! yeah kinda an old post that got dug up,

[AaronGTR]

brad answered my question months ago, i didn't think it mattered

Sorry, didn't see the date. It was at the top so I thought it was new. Still a relavant comment though. People need to know what you're talking about.



BTW people, I already got the nuts and washers from summit, but the studs aren't expected until the second week of march! Long after my engine will be finished. They will have to wait until next time I tear down the engine (like maybe when the new cam comes out). If you want to get these for your engine project, make sure you order them well in advance of when you need them!

[Cliff8928]

Just one thing that i was thinking of with the talk of these head studs... What is the tightening procedure for the nuts? Are they still torque-to-yield, or do you have to tighten them to a set torque value? And do they require re-torquing after the engine has run..

Cliff Scott
89 BerettaGT

[AaronGTR]

Just one thing that i was thinking of with the talk of these head studs... What is the tightening procedure for the nuts? Are they still torque-to-yield, or do you have to tighten them to a set torque value? And do they require re-torquing after the engine has run..

Cliff Scott
89 BerettaGT

Well, the stock head bolts you torque to a certain value plus an extra 90 degrees. They aren't supposed to require re-torquing because they are compressing a gasket (not holding together two hard parts) and you are supposed to seal them with teflon pipe thread sealer, so once that dries they wouldn't move. I suppose the studs would be the same. Biggest advantage is that you can get a more accurate torque reading and more consistent clamping force with studs. Also the studs can be torqued much tighter than bolts.

[RacerX11]

ARP has the torque values on their website: http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/tech/images/fasttorq.pdf

You would use the factory tightening sequence. They are not torque-to-yield, so you can reuse them over and over again. The studs come with a special moly lube that must be applied to the threads. This gives a much more accurate torque reading. With the lube, and the fact that the ARP studs don't stretch as much as the stock bolts, the torque value will be less than stock, but the clamping force will be the same.

I'm not sure about the re-torque after run-in procedure. I was thinking of doing it just as a precaution.

Marty

Edit: I guess I should have read all the posts before I replied

[Invasion1]

i was told by the tech dept. that using there Moly lube the torque specs were 60 LBS for the 11 mm studs with 12 point 1.2 inch nuts....

and using SAE 30 Engine oil that torque was upped to 80 LBS!!!!

can anyone confiem this.........reason being im having a hard time torquing them with out the Studs spinning.........

im using a allen key on the top of the stud while using a 1/2 "Crowsfoot" adapter on the torque wrench to torque......

i get them to 45 and it becomes difficult for my assistant.... to keep them from turning......

im using SAE 30 so my goal is 80 LBS........

any advice is welcome......

thanks
Dave

[TurboZ24]

Well, I put thread sealant on the studs going into the block and tighten the studs into the block. Then put on the heads of course, and moly lube on the threads, washer, and underside of the nut. Always worked for me.

[Invasion1]

I got the install down but i have threads that don't bottom out.......they go streaght through into the CYL Wall water jackets......

so i cant tighten them down.......till they stop...

thus my problrm with spinning studs....when torquing

anyone know the torque setting on the studs forsure?????


thanks
Dave