head bolt/stud options for 3400

[geoffinbc]

I love JBP

Just send a separate email indicating that you wish to purchase head studs for the 3400 after purchasing this part.

LOL there is a recipie for a fuck up. That company is comedy.

[Froggx]

I love JBP

Just send a separate email indicating that you wish to purchase head studs for the 3400 after purchasing this part.

LOL there is a recipie for a fuck up. That company is comedy.

I saw the price and closed the window, didn't even read that far down. I agree.

[geoffinbc]

Well first they actually have to get to the process of shipment. Regardless of what they say it is actually about 4 to 6 months.

[Froggx]

Well first they actually have to get to the process of shipment. Regardless of what they say it is actually about 4 to 6 months.

Oh yeah, I factored that in well before the price

[blackbombshell95]

why are those studs so expensive? how mu ch would factory ones be??? is their even a big difference?

[geoffinbc]

Because its J-Body. Order everything through ARP and it will be half that.

[blackbombshell95]

why not just buy them from the factory?

[bszopi]

Why not just keep the car stock and never do anything with it?

There is always something out there that is better than factory components... these studs being one of those items. And as an added benefit, if you pull the heads semi-often, if you used factory, you SHOULD replace the head bolts everytime, whereas the studs you can continue to use over and over.

[blackbombshell95]

And as an added benefit, if you pull the heads semi-often, if you used factory, you SHOULD replace the head bolts everytime, whereas the studs you can continue to use over and over.

learn something new everyday

[AaronGTR]

Just an update, those part numbers I gave are the correct part numbers. Did the head install yesterday and the studs fit perfectly.

[AaronGTR]

Ok, another update. I found something interesting yesterday while I was installing my rockers and setting the valve lash. If you are using aftermarket adjustable rockers like me, the bottom of the rockers just touches the top outside head stud (top closest to the end of the cylinder head). My rockers are wider than stock and they have to be adjusted so when you tighten them down they hit. Stock rockers wouldn't have that problem since they are narrower and set lash automatically. The rest of the studs have lots of clearance. My solution was to run a tap in the the holes in the block to make sure the threads were cleaned out, and then cut 1/16" off the bottom of those two studs. After that there was plenty of clearance. I had to do it by hand with a hacksaw and file so as to not heat up the metal and affect the temper. Worked perfectly though.

[geoffinbc]

Hmmm got a pic? How much does the stud stick out past the top of the nut?

[feavs]

Mine did the same thing, but with the stock 1.6 roller rockers. I believe it only did it on two of them. Nothing a grinder didn't fix.

http://feavs.com/Rebuild/11.JPG

and

http://feavs.com/Rebuild/13.JPG

kinda shows what I encountered.

[AaronGTR]

hmm, I didn't think the stock ones would've hit but I guess they do. Mine were sticking up about 1/4" past the nut after they were torqued down. I cut 1/16" off the bottom of the stud so I wouldn't cut off the allen key on the top and they have plenty of clearance now. They are threaded all the way down into the block too, so there's plenty of thread engagement.