Ok I'm just about to put my regrind in and I wanted to see if anyone has experiemented with adjusting cam degrees? I know there have been gains made in the DOHC's this way. I wanted to find out if there are similar results in the PR's. I am well aware of the Pro and cons of adavncing and retarding but has anyone done this and what did you find.
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I've thought about it before, but I don't think it would have the same effect as on the DOHC. Also, it would be much harder to do it just slightly, unlike the DOHC. The only way (I know) to do it would be to not align the mark on the cam and crank gears. Depending on the number of gears on the cam gear (I'm guessing around 30), you are limited to increments of around 12º.
It'd be interesting to see what it would do though...-Brad-
89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
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there are ways to do it. you can get offset keys for the crank gear, and you can change it about a degreee or 2 either way. im not sure about for our motors, but i know most cloyes double roller timing chain sets come with a crank gear with 3 keyways machined into it, so you can go straight up, 1 degree advanced or retard. thats about 3 degrees adjustability right there, and thats all you will get without an adjustable cam gear.
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So every tooth is 12* is that what I understand? Ouch...
Is that a tooth on the cam or on the crank? I think it would help. If we could get that valve closed a little sooner we could increase the dynamic compression . Has anyone ever seen a three key crank pulley for our setups? Probabaly not huh?
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I have never seen one. Doesn't mean one can't be made. There are twice as many teeth on the cam gear than there are on the crank gear. Lemme see if I can find a pic...
You could possibly drill a couple different cam button holes, but you'd have to be pretty precise about it. But its an option.-Brad-
89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
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Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog
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so one tooth on the crank gear is half as many degrees as the cam gear?
on the 2.8/3.1's i dont think you can get away drilling a hole for the cam dowel, you have 3 bolts in that application. i know were talking about the 3x00 though. it seems there are a few parts interchangable from the sbc, how does the sbc timing set measure up against ours, maybe we can use the crang gear with the 3 keys. or not, and i could just be retarded and need smacked.If you aren't friends with a liar, you aren't friends with anyone.
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Here is the Comp Cams Hex set for the LS1. Need Adobe Acrobat. http://www.compcams.com/information/...yID=2087036574If you are driving a Chevy, everything else, is just a blur. 3.4 Carbon Footprint.
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The Cloyes double roller timing sets for the RWD engines will not work on the gen2/3 FWD engines, as the timing cover has less clearance. With some machining, they can be made to fit the gen2 FWD engines, but not the gen3's (due to the single cam bolt).
Marty'99 Z-28 - Weekend Driver
'98 Dodge Neon - Winter Beater
'84 X-11 - Time and Money Pit
'88 Fiero Formula - Bone stock for now
Quote of the week:Originally posted by AaronThis is why I don't build crappy headers. I'm not sure, I don't know too much about welding.
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OK Marty, Will they fit a 1st gen 2.8?Tuning a car is full of compromises. You must decide if you are willing to give up either reliability, performance, or a whole load of cash. Also remember that repairs will seem to come up much more often as you strive for even more performance
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It should work with all 1st gen 2.8's except the J-bodies. I think the J-body cars had a thinner timing cover (like the gen2 engines) to fit the chassis better. Some of the J-body guys could probably comment further.
Marty'99 Z-28 - Weekend Driver
'98 Dodge Neon - Winter Beater
'84 X-11 - Time and Money Pit
'88 Fiero Formula - Bone stock for now
Quote of the week:Originally posted by AaronThis is why I don't build crappy headers. I'm not sure, I don't know too much about welding.
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correct, the first gen j-bodies with the first gen 2.8 have the thin timing cover. which, btw, is notably differnt than the 2nd gen timing cover. we use a standard rotation waterpump with a ribbed pulley where-as the gen 2 is reverse rotation with the smooth type pulley. and the alternator and the PS pump are switched around. not to mention where the oilpan bolts up is different as well. and the non-automatic belt tensioner is pretty gay since you have to get your hands in to tighten and losen crap while holding the tension to a specific ft/lbs. did i mention the a/c is driven with a v-belt? everything else is serpentine.If you aren't friends with a liar, you aren't friends with anyone.
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