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  • Need help, 3900 piston problem!!!

    My comments from another forum;
    I have some internal parts I have found at sites that deal in used NASCAR parts and the like, that I intend to use. I was hoping to limit the time the engine was apart by getting parts collected first . Ya dumb I know.

    But I have lost faith in some of the info I mined with much effort from forums. Even when two or more claim the same thing. so Sunday I will take it all apart and check every thing my self. Every thing. And restart.


    First is the block, after a hot tanking at my sons work it will come to mine so I can go over it with a CMM. (coordinate measuring machine), there is conflicting info about cylinder offsets. That I need to settle to my satisfaction! If both cyl. Are moved away from the cam then the engine is a 61 degree V6 and should be an odd fire engine. 121, 119, 121, 119. Or are the crank throws offset to correct it like a Buick but much less? The crank grinder will need to know and so will I.

    However I have seen no mention of odd fire or crank offsets(indexing),

    Anyone???

    I see “the new 99mm (3.9in) bore required offsetting the bores by 1.5mm (0.1in) away from the engine center line” repeated often. (1.5mm =.0590 in)

    The bores are at 60 degrees to each other. When the pistons are at tdc the rod angel would be more than 60 degrees because of cylinders outward movement.

    I have never seen any mention of how they compensate for the change in the stock engine.

    Some claim the wrist pin is offset “like in the LS motors”. In the LS one bank of pistons have the pin moved 1mm away from center line and the other bank 1mm towards the center line. I have a set. This will increase the difference in geometry from bank to bank when used in the LZ9 if the 1.5 outward is correct.

    Should I be using 6 LS pistons all from the same side and turn 3 backwards???

    This would reduce pin offsets to .5mm (.0197in) relative to the crank if the crank is ground at 120 degrees. If so I need to throw out 5 of my new Wiseco pistons and buy 3 more of the same side for 6 all the same! F***! F***!! F***!!!

    From other;
    “If you are using offset wrist pin pistons, then you do not want the offset to both toward or away from center on both banks. You want the offset to be toward the major thrust wall of the cylinder (or opposite the crank rotation direction)”

    You're 100% exactly right. For an LS and all motors I'm aware of except for LZ9/LZ4.

    These engines (probably) have the cylinders moved outward. Opposite directions. Odds towards the major thrust side. Evens toward the minor thrust side.

    Using the ls piston in our cyl. #1 and you add the 1mm of the piston to the 1.5mm of the block! (2.5mm = .0984in outward)

    Using the ls piston in our cyl. #2 and you subtract 1mm for the piston from the 1.5mm of the block. (.5mm = .0197in outward)

    It maybe OK up to 5 or 6000 rpm. But at 7, 8000 or more, umm... not good.

    Its the odd numbered bank that is bugging me.

    This all relates to the cam as well!
    Last edited by thatscustom; 10-10-2016, 01:19 AM. Reason: Correct some numbers.

  • #2
    The angle of the banks has NOTHING to do with being even or odd fire. Any bank angle could be made to be even or odd fire. The oddfire Buick stuff was more of a result of taking an 8 cyl and eliminating two cylinders from, without changing the crank leaving two spots in the firing order where the missing cylinders would be.

    As was mentioned to you on another forum, you don't want to install pistons backwards. The reason really has very little to with any wrist pin offset and everything to do with major and minor thrust sides of the piston. Generally the major thrust side of the piston is made stronger than the minor thrust side and can fail prematurely if installed backwards.

    Comment


    • #3
      The Raven;
      "The angle of the banks has NOTHING to do with being even or odd fire. Any bank angle could be made to be even or odd fire. The oddfire Buick stuff was more of a result of taking an 8 cyl and eliminating two cylinders from, without changing the crank leaving two spots in the firing order where the missing cylinders would be."

      true, true, and more true.

      What I'm trying to ask is how on a 3900 are other builders fixing the small change in angle???

      Do they use the crank pin location , the wrist pin location or split the difference and say “good enough” ?


      The Raven
      "As was mentioned to you on another forum, you don't want to install pistons backwards. The reason really has very little to with any wrist pin offset and everything to do with major and minor thrust sides of the piston. Generally the major thrust side of the piston is made stronger than the minor thrust side and can fail prematurely if installed backwards."

      OK good. Good! This is helping me get one way to fix what I see as a problem strait in my mind.

      You seem to be implying that I should get the correct piton for that side (odd#) but have them custom made with the wrist in the location I think will help with rod angles due to bank offsets.

      Is this what your thinking?

      Offset wrist pins can be good. I need the rod angles to be even on both sides.

      Is this the best solution? Anyone?
      Last edited by thatscustom; 06-30-2016, 12:26 AM.

      Comment


      • #4
        Forgive me if I'm way off base here as I haven't actually done the custom piston thing. I do have an LZ4 (short stroke LZ9) that I'm building so this is very interesting to me.

        Observations:
        1) You have guessed that GM moved the cylinder bores out to accommodate the extra bore but have assumed that they did not move them up as well to retain the 60 degree bank angle. Remember that marketing speak and engineering speak are different. I'd say there's an 80% chance that GM moved the bore up as well retaining the 60 degree angle. BUT I certainly wouldn't bet my life on it. Hopefully you're CMM will put this issue to bed. Cool equipment BTW!

        2) I think you may be be confusing the wrist pin offset with affecting the "timing" of the engine. Whether the wrist pin is at one edge the middle or the other the crank sees the power stroke at the same point. The offset simply affects how the piston will wear and needs to be tied to engine rotation direction not bank angle.

        Hopefully this is helpful!

        Sam

        Comment


        • #5
          ”The bores are at 60 degrees to each other.” Parallel to previous model but moved out (1.5mm each?) according to most sources, but not all. The bore center lines cross below the crank center line(?).

          “When the piston are at tdc the rod angel would be more than 120 degrees because of cylinders outward movement.”
          Now draw a line from the center of the new piston bore center line. where it intersects the deck, to the crank center line. The line will be at an angle to the bore center line. The other side is opposite.
          Tdc is when that angle is the smallest change from “normal” for any crank angle until the crank pin is to 90 degrees to the rod then comes back.
          This “change from normal” will slightly increase piston acceleration for our cyl# 1 but slow the acceleration for #2

          Moving the bore or pin to the major thrust side slightly reduce power by 1% +or-.

          Moving the bore or pin to the minor thrust side slightly increases power by 1% +or-.

          GM goes to the major side to reduce piston noise when there cold. Racers go to the miner side to get an edge in power.

          anyone have experience with offset toward the direction of rotation. most OEMs are running about 1mm against the directioin of rotation because of noise from rocking pistons. i am starting off with .5mm in the other direction, then try 1mm. any info on piston life and rod ratio used with what...



          I lost my copy years ago.

          Moving just the heads outward a little on our motors to put the vales closer to the bore center line will make power also. Too much work.

          SBC heads move in. Easier. They did it at our shop after hours for dirt racers.
          “Remember that marketing speak and engineering speak are different.”
          In my dreams GM moved the heads, not the cylinders.!

          Comment


          • #6

            Comment


            • #7
              Hopefully you don't mind me sharing the info over here as well.


              Well I've been about half sick for two or three weeks but I tried to putter a couple of times'
              Tonight a coworker helped me with the CMM (coordinate measuring machine) and I have some of the numbers I need.

              The cylinders ARE offset 1.5mm (.059”)outward from the old cl. Center-line.

              The odd numbered cylinders on my motor measure at .0572” outward
              The even numbered cylinders on my motor measure at .0624” outward.

              The odd numbered cylinders deck flatness .0004”
              The even numbered cylinders deck flatness .0008”The odd numbered cylinders deck height 8.8187”
              The even numbered cylinders deck height 8.8154”

              Yes a CMM is accurate to four decimal places.
              '86 Grand National

              Comment


              • #8
                I think the block angle is 61.023 degrees. Much less than I originally believed.

                I've been thinking a lot about if I should compensate for the one degree or not, and how.

                I'm going to correct it in the crank. I will be doing some work on the crank anyway, so wile we're at it, change this too.

                My plane, for the moment, is to keep the odd cylinder crank pins in there normal position. Then follow them with the evens only 59* behind (61*,block + 59*,crank = 120* ). All other tings can be off the shelf parts. Only the crank is custom.

                Comment


                • #9

                  You can see the light gleam off of all the little chamfers I spent the day making. I also removed all the flashing in the oil drain back holes and smoothed around the tops of them. I prefer this tool to debur the bolt holes.
                  (trying to post pictures.)
                  Last edited by thatscustom; 10-10-2016, 02:13 AM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Did you chamfer the water ports in the block? Is that what I see? That's a good way to get coolant to get under the gasket. Those holes are left squared for a reason.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Im interested to see how you offset grind the crank, and verify the crank angle. I don't see much of a problem keeping it the way it is, unless you think that it will leave a lot of power on the table.
                      '86 Grand National

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Im interested to see how you offset grind the crank, and verify the crank angle. I don't see much of a problem keeping it the way it is, unless you think that it will leave a lot of power on the table.
                        '86 Grand National

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          The-Raven

                          Yes. I chamfered all edges and holes as well as deburring most of the block, inside and out. Not in the water jacket.

                          I was surprised at your your statement about not chamfering water jacket holes. I had not heard anyone say that before, so I had to think about it for a wile. I searched the net but could not find anything one way or the other.

                          If you have source you can tell me of, I'd like to see it.

                          I have been a machinist for 40 years, the last 30 at a “job shop”( we make anything for anyone) with large machines. We make oxygen/acetylene manifolded up to nine feet long, that mount cutting heads for the length of it. We make valve/control blocs for 500HP hydraulic systems. And much, much more. Then ship allover the world.

                          Never have I gotten a blue print that asked me to leave an edge sharp. Not on a cooling system. Not on a hydraulic system. Never on a high presser gas system. Only for a knife edge that is meant to cut.

                          Having a sharp edge cut into a gasket is not a good idea IMO. A more likely point of failure is having the deck and/or head surface too smooth.




                          George

                          https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtcoJ3CMtWvgEok8R-n3XRg

                          http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/096777.html



                          Last edited by thatscustom; 10-24-2016, 12:08 AM.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            34blazer

                            I also don't see much of a problem keeping it the way it is.




                            However if it was to fail I would forever wonder if...




                            I have not run a crank grinder myself, but in an hours time we could figure it out together.

                            1,3,and 5 are 120* apart. 1, And 2, are 59* apart. 2, 4, and 6 are120* apart. So you only need to rotate the crank back one time, for one degree to make the change. If the machine can't do it, I can do it with a calculator and an indicator.




                            Are you putting together a 600HP 3.9 turbo? How's it going?




                            George

                            https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtcoJ3CMtWvgEok8R-n3XRg

                            http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/096777.html




                            PS how do I post full size photos.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              double post
                              '86 Grand National

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