Converting From MAF (88 Lbody) to NON maf sensor setup?

[Rhedalert]

yeah get it from the donor car...engine doesnt matter since it's on the tranny

[v6h.o.]

the improper speed reading is from the two different speed sensor reluctor ring differences.

on the 5spd's they used to use a slant cut plastic speedo ring, on the later 5spds they used a straight raised tooth reluctor style ring.

one of them used to be 27 or 29? teeth, the other 31 teeth.

i dont know how many teeth the Auto trans's used to use. but the sensor wont change the speedo's improper calibration, you need the proper toothed ring and corresponding sensor to make sure proper calibration,

basically what it comes down to is pulses per mile given off by the reluctor ring.

[3100 MPFI]

Go to the doner car that you got the chip out of. On the passenger side of the car, from the top looking down, look at the end of the transmission (where the axel goes into it). There should be a thing sticking up with wire harness attached to it. There are 2 bolts that hold it on (either 13mm, or 15mm). Just use a bunch of extensions (unless you can get to it from the tire well, if the tire is off the car, and the car is off the ground). Just take the 2 bolts out, unplug the harness (or cut it off and take it with out, but it should be the same) and lift the whole housing off. The top piece that you take off, just take that with out, and TAKE THE GEAR THING THAT IS UNDER IT!!!!! There should be a shaft thing with a gear on it sticking out of the transmission, and when you lift it up, there should be another gear on the other end. Just take the cap, and the shaft thingie (the shaft is about 5 or 6 inches long total). When you take your out, just compare the 2. Your old one should have a lot of teeth on the gear, wheras the new one should not have a lot. Just put the whole new shaft in, with the new cap. Bolt it down, and torgue it, then plug it in.

That should be all that you need to do, and then your speedo should be correct.

[v6h.o.]

the reason i was trying to ditch the MAF on my friends 88 GT was due to with the maf in hte intake tract. there is no room for a true intake/filter setup with the 3X00 conversion. with the manifolds relocated the way they do, the old intake tube system doesnt fit at all.

that and the MAF is a huge bottle neck in the system
why would you keep the MAF screen.. it restricts flow.

[Anonymous]

I don't know about the 88 2.8L beretta, but the w-bodies have the MAF before the 'accordian-type' intake tube, so you would get turbulence after it passes through the MAF screen anyways, right?. Don't know if I'm being of any help I just want to see if I'm understanding correctly.

[Anonymous]

Interesting...*scurries off to do additional research*

Here is my old crappy setup, while I still had the MAF on it.. I've got the '89 stock airbox now (with the IAT in it). The MAF on the '88 w-body have the IAT build in it.

[3100 MPFI]

Canadian Badass is correct. In the W-Body cars, the MAF is attached directly to the airbox. The screen is between the Airbox, and the intake for the MAF. After the MAF is the accordian tube going directly to the throttle body. There is no screen between the EXIT of the MAF, and the TB.

If need be, I will try to dig up my old airbox with the MAF, and post a picture of it.

[Anonymous]

Its pretty sad.. on the w-body board some of the guys (with 3.4s mostly I think) were talking about gaining power from removing the screen from their MAF...

HAHHAHAHAHA!

[3100 MPFI]

I can't STAND the w-body page. Most of the people there are even worse than the ones that you see on the Grand AM, and 3800 boards.

[Rhedalert]

that and the MAF is a huge bottle neck in the system
why would you keep the MAF screen.. it restricts flow.

I understand that there has been extensive controversy over this very issue, and it seems to be the general consensus after all is said and done, that the MAF screen with a stock accordion-type intake tube straightens the airflow, or makes it laminar, thus helping, not restricting airflow, because the accordion-type intake tube produces a massive amount of turbulence, an enemy of good CFM. Now, when a PVC-type (or one with smooth inside surfaces) of tube is used in place of the accordion-type tube, the airflow is already laminar, thus the screen becomes more of a restriction. This has seemed to be the accurate conclusion after over much hypothetical, and theoretical testing on actual vehicles.

I'll definetly agree to the problem with the accordian type tube. I had once replaced it with a metal pipe with the stock airbox, and I felt a slight improvement at WOT

[v6h.o.]

Canadian Badass is correct. In the W-Body cars, the MAF is attached directly to the airbox. The screen is between the Airbox, and the intake for the MAF. After the MAF is the accordian tube going directly to the throttle body. There is no screen between the EXIT of the MAF, and the TB.

yeah thats what had me confused. as the screen is before the crapola stock rubber hose anways. there would be no place to put it once the maf was removed... which the main reason to remove the maf in this case was there was no room for to use a straight pipe'd WAI or CAI intake and get rid of the accordian crap.

the only cars ive seen with the MAF screen on the tb are 3800's 3300s, and the 94/95 3100cierra with the 3300 style throttle body

all GM setups for the 660 are with the maf usually attached to the box and the accordian pipe afterwards...

so in theory the air will get disrupted anyways with the maf screen in there before the poor air flow/turbulance causing intake tubing.

[v6h.o.]

the main purpose though is to keep foriegn objects from distroying the delicate MAF sensor wires, i can see what you mean about it smoothing the air flow, but the main reason it was ever installed was to keep from mafs getting damaged.

if there was a huge gain/benefit from the maf screen setup for air turbulance i dont see why the manufactures dont put it on everything. thats why to me i dont see a benefit to them in that regard.
but doesnt matter the good majority of us on this board have gotten rid of that accordian style tube long ago and gone onto better air flowing intake tube setups.

[nocutt]

the main purpose though is to keep foriegn objects from distroying the delicate MAF sensor wires, i can see what you mean about it smoothing the air flow, but the main reason it was ever installed was to keep from mafs getting damaged.

if there was a huge gain/benefit from the maf screen setup for air turbulance i dont see why the manufactures dont put it on everything. thats why to me i dont see a benefit to them in that regard.
but doesnt matter the good majority of us on this board have gotten rid of that accordian style tube long ago and gone onto better air flowing intake tube setups.

I have seen 3 types of GM MAFs. The old types on the 2.8/3.1s, then there is the newer style on 3.4, 3400, LT1, LS1 etc (this had their elements in the air stream and took "real" measureents) then there is the one in the 3800S1/SII's (This have their elements housed, and "samples" the air). The screen is actually to give the MAF laminar flow and is even calibrated with the MAF. Are they restrictive? YES...someone actually did a test with and without...this was with the 3800TB/MAF. The bottom line, without the screen the car will run lean due to more air= more power?...to a point, because on OBD2...the PCM will actually compensate in the long run and put you back to square 1!?!? meaning you will be right back where you started...unless you force a change in the PCMs Fuel trims...only true a hack or blackbox...
On the older style MAF it is questionable, when I had my 2.8 an accident left me with a damaged screen...I took the screen out completely...the car had a better throttle response, but it surged a lot and MPG was different...surfice to say, I had to visit the junkyard to grab another MAF...

[v6h.o.]

Nocutt:
im wasnt saying take the screens out... i honestly think its not wise to take them out.

i was saying to the guy who came on here and now all his posts are erased?? "TRUEWILDMAN" who was saying put the screen back in the system after the maf was removed, due to trying to keep laminar airflow,
that it would be a waste, as the point of removal was to go to an aftermarket smooth intake tube setup...

argh this post is fucking stupid now that his arguements have been erased, it makes no sence at all.

what i was getting at was he said that the MAF screens smooth out the flow from the accordian style intake tubing, which really only on the 3800's its like that.
as the 660 engines use the maf before the stupid ribbed tubing and in essence it would make no difference having the screen there as the flow gets disrupted from the backwards setup with the ribbs after the maf screwing the flow anyways.

but its all pointless as the removal of the maf was to get rid of it on the 2.8L ecm controled car that is using a 3X00 top end which makes for using the stock maf and air box useless, in which case an WAI setup is going to be used and the maf will be ditched and there is no need to put the screen back in the system like "Truewildman" was suggesting...

[Anonymous]

(w-body)
'88 2.8 had the MAF, 89 did not (different bigger airbox with IAT built in and different PROM)... no screen. It is better performer though cause of the better airbox. Bottem line, who cares about the MAF screen if you are worried just get a real CAI (or WAI) and throw the rubber in the garbage.