Finally... Full Roller Rockers For The 3.4L...?

[60dgrzbelow0]

I know this topic has probably been beaten half to death somewhere on the forum... but I am damned if i could pinpoint one about the 3.4l engine:

Summit lists these full roller rockers as working on the GM 3.4l V6 engine. Can this be right for heads that sport the stock 10mm rocker arm studs?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-1602-12/overview/make/chevrolet

Also... according to this PDF from CompCam, they don't seem make a 10mm Poly-Lock that would not only work on the 3.4l engine with full roller trunion rockers ...but also fit comfortably under the stock valve covers in an F-body car. Does anyone make such a mechanical creature?

http://www.compcams.com/catalog/COMP2012/pdf/COMP_Catalog_2012_326.pdf

If the answer to both questions is NO!... would the above listed full roller rockers work if the 10mm studs were replaced and if the answer is YES! What is the part number of the stud and what are the install procedures/torque(s) required to make it all work. Thanks for any help!

[geoffinbc]

Full rollers and conversion studs have been available for a couple decades. The full roller rockers require a 3/8" stud. However you need to go to COMP's site and check the width, on iron heads the wide trunnions will hit. On aluminum heads they will not but you need to use guide plates from a GENII engine.

These Crane rockers come with the studs. http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/crn-25759-12 I used them on my first ever 3.4L build (iron heads). They were great, never had any issues and sold the engine with the rockers still bolted in.

[60dgrzbelow0]

Thanks Geoff (Betterthanyou) ???

After your suggestion, I poked around a bit more and found this abridged information oddly on an Ecotec forum... but seems relevant here, too but if I missed anything please advise:

"...CRANE CAMS offers a full roller rocker. It is their GOLD RACE Extruded Narrow Body roller rocker. (For 60* v6 and center bolt v8 engines) it is an all aluminum needle bearing roller fulcrum and roller tip rocker. $$$ Very pricey. It is available in a 1.5:1 #25750-12 and 1.6:1 ratio #25759-12 but require cranes replacement nuts #99795 and studs #99148-12.

If using the Crane full roller rockers then you need to get cranes studs 99148-12 -which have a M10x1.5x9.9/ 3/8x24 stud. In addition, cranes nuts #99795. These studs use have the metric threaded end for the cylinder head and a standard type 3/8 stud/thread for the rocker arm."

The application I am using involves the CompCam 260H camshaft with their necessary dual valve springs, retainers and keepers at just over 300#s of spring pressure and since I don't care as much about higher performance as in avoiding the hassle of having to install the old lower pressure stock valve springs in order to break in this cam and not wipe the lobes... the Crane 1.5:1 version here seems to fit my needs perfectly and prevents me from having to rework the CC springs back into the heads after the engine is under the hood!

[geoffinbc]

Lol no worries. The COMP springs and high ratio rockers will not wipe the lobes. Don't let rumours scare you. The spring loads and ramp rates we are running on our daily driver cams are not nearly enough to even raise an eyebrow at. Do your standard break in using an break in additive and use mineral oil for the first 2 changes.

That info you posted is a little misleading. You do not need to buy special studs and nuts seperate they are included in the part number I posted. I would go with 1.6 rockers it costs the same so it's a free little bump in torque.

[60dgrzbelow0]

That is a big relief because I have been dealing with two nightmares where this is job concerned:

1. I dream I have to construct an apparatus for the Fbody as something that keeps the car chassis in an "out of body" experience hovering above ...but umbilicaled to the power/electronics/water of the V6 engine resting on the K-member just underneath the engine nacelle...with enough room to access the valve covers and swap in the stronger springs after the 30 Minute 2,000-2,500 RPM/Oil Filter and Oil Change after the break in period.

and...

2. I dream I'm re-living the sight of the The Thousand Yard Stare I had to endure from the "Lil Woman" late last night after trying to explain to her the reduction in the co-efficent of friction that comes with the marvel of installing a $350.00 set of Crane Gold Needle Bearing Rockers/Rocker Arm Studs Kit with her repeating over and over... "Are they made out of REAL Gold...WELL...ARE THEY?!!!" until I wake up in a cold sweat and realize I'm covered with old, stamped rocker arm parts strewn about the bed she found in the garage.

[geoffinbc]

You won't have any trouble. I have been running mine for 7 or 8 years now. It is a nice upgrade that's for sure. I am running the 252 can and it is a big leap from stock.