300 hp N/A carb 2.8 V6 engine

[veekuusi]

Finally putting the engine back in.
It is the first race of this season in a 1.5 weeks time.
I am not sure if can get everything working before that date.

[geoffinbc]

Looks good. I can't remember far enough back but did you have rocker stud girdles before?

[veekuusi]

Looks good. I can't remember far enough back but did you have rocker stud girdles before?

I like the rocker stud girdle and it is a good idea.
But I have not one yet.
I had a plan to make one to the old engine, but it has not yet come true.
Maybe some day.....

[veekuusi]

I got the engine running this week.
Everything looks and sounds OK, except one thing.
Oil pressure.
There is not enough pressure, and the pressure drops when the engine warms up.

I made same mistake couple of years ago.
I forgot the 2 bolts.





I had to pull off the intake,valve covers, push rods, rockers ........
Not a big thing , now it is done.

The first race of this season was this week end.
I could not take participate that.

[34blazer]

Can't wait to see some videos!

[Purple pit]

Me too! Best wishes! Oh and don't scare me like that again.
Did you ever get a rear shock tower bar put on?

[3400-95-Modified]

Wow didnt realize those lifter holder mounting threads went all the way in to the oil galley's on that side... That's news to me.

[veekuusi]

Hi
A picture is worth a thousand words .
The end of this story?

[1QUICKHATCH]

wow.

[Purple pit]

Thanks for that very nice photo of the car "at work". As for the others that made me sink in my chair and still does. Just couldn't post the first time they were viewed. Just ill now.....was really looking forward to more videos of this car running.
A sad end to one of the kings of the 60 degree engines. Feeling sure the car will go on......just with a different brand of engine.

You didn't say that you got hurt so I'm taking that as a fact.

[Guest]

Looks like oil starvation to me, IIRC the rear main (and therefore rod #6) is the last main to get oil. I need to find the oil system diagram I used to have...

The oil pan might need some baffling to keep the oil IN the pan during long or hard corners along with hard braking. Adding extra capacity wouldn't hurt either, since it looks like you took some capacity away with your dry sump modification.

Did the block get torn apart as well, or just the oil pan?

[GM Ontairo]

man I feel for you. Was really enjoying this build until those last pictures.

[Xnke]

Not oil starvation. You would see bluing of the rod journal or main journal, if it ran for any number of revs with low oil. That rod came apart, looks like a rod bolt failure to me. THEN you have the oiling failure caused by practically zero pressure to the rear main.

Scat rods? If so, I have seen a few instances of the Scat SBC 5.7" rod breaking around the rod journal like that with highish revs and a not-super-light piston. If you go this route again, try an Oliver rod, they're more expensive for a reason. They just don't break.

Another possible failure would be the rod bolt-if the bolts were ARP 8740 or L19, then they are VERY susceptable to corrosion cracking. Any moisture at all is a death sentence, including condensation in the engine oil, as if the engine is left sitting in unheated shop storage.

Do you have close up photos of both rod bolts and all the fractured ends of the rod and rod bolts?

[veekuusi]

Not oil starvation. You would see bluing of the rod journal or main journal, if it ran for any number of revs with low oil. That rod came apart, looks like a rod bolt failure to me. THEN you have the oiling failure caused by practically zero pressure to the rear main.

Scat rods? If so, I have seen a few instances of the Scat SBC 5.7" rod breaking around the rod journal like that with highish revs and a not-super-light piston. If you go this route again, try an Oliver rod, they're more expensive for a reason. They just don't break.

Another possible failure would be the rod bolt-if the bolts were ARP 8740 or L19, then they are VERY susceptable to corrosion cracking. Any moisture at all is a death sentence, including condensation in the engine oil, as if the engine is left sitting in unheated shop storage.

Do you have close up photos of both rod bolts and all the fractured ends of the rod and rod bolts?

Rod bolts are Scat 8740 and the rods are Scat.
One bolt came loose and the other broke.

[Xnke]

Hate to say it, but that's an assembly error.

Bolt on the right side broke in the threaded area, which means more than likely overtorqued on assembly. Bolt on the left side took it like a champ, but you can see where the threads pulled out from having to carry the load alone. Curious to me are the two marks on the shank of the surviving rod bolt, they look like grinding wheel marks?

When you assembled the engine, did you use the ARP assembly lubricant to install and torque those fasteners? If you didn't, or you used a different lubricant, or the fasteners have been assembled/dissassembled/ many times, then that would cause this kind of failure.