hey all new to 60v6 have an 02 impala and the ability to cnc my heads any way id like, so my question is what specs/supporting mods should i get i have headers and am also porting upper and lowwer intakes, and want to do a cam re grind and add springs and new valves after my valve job is finished and i ultimatly plan on turboing this same setup so ya would be great if i can get some specs oppinions and suggestions on how to go about it so it can be n/a for about 6 months then go boosted 12-15 psi...thanks for any help yall can hand out
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starting new build in a month looking for specs
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Keep the stock cam for 6 months and the swap it when you add the turbo. Turbo cams and N/A cams are not really cross compatible unless your willing to compromise a lot. A supercharged cam and N/A cam are much more similar in design. After you have the rest or your parts and design laid out then figure out your cam. Comp will give you free advice and grind you a cam at no extra charge compared to a shelf grind.1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
Because... I am, CANADIAN
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Oh we'll that's good to know all I have ever built are rx7s and turbo diesels..but I figured its time to put a lil more limp in the imps walk, so as far as head work I'm just cleaning everything up I have headers so porting to gasket match exaust as well as intakes, may get valve job down the line when I boost and put the new cam in so I was wondering should I leave some grit to the exaust and so on for maximum flow and wait till the turbo to smooth em all out( as I know boost loves a nice slick passage lol or should I go all smooth and purdy even w n/a in prep for that sweet boostage
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Originally posted by cavalier3400z View PostI always read not to gasket match the exhaust on the head. I always read you can open it up a little but gasket matching will hurt unless that is just for n/a
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You can always polish the exhaust to a mirror finish. It will help keep the heat in the exhaust stream and prevent carbon buildup on the port walls. Depending on the gasket you may be able to open it up just a small amount but don't even think about opening up to the header tube size. You want a step from the port to the header and you also need to leave the walls of the exhaust thick enough to take the heat.1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
Because... I am, CANADIAN
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Oh I wouldn't take it out to tube size per say..idk how to put it, I want to keep the size the exhaust has but port a small amount of material, and then just open up the exaust shape some more instead of the stock outlet shape, so where should I polish inside to a mirror finish? Keeping in Mind if it doesn't get the best power n/a long as it can still get up n go but the best areas to polish for das boost
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If there is liquid fuel present in the area then leave it rough. Everywhere else can be polished if you want. You don't want to change the port shape on those heads though. Keep it all the same and just clean up any obvious casting flaws.1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
Because... I am, CANADIAN
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I'm not aware of a bolt on option for the TB, I'm using Manley valves and PAC springs from WOT tech in my turbo build."I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
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