89 Firebird Turbo 3500 Build

[caffeine]

Bolted on a few more things


That's a few more things bolted on. Power steering pump and bracket, under drive crank pulley with trigger wheel, clocked the turbo so the drain faces down haha.

The FWD water pump pulley I noticed is larger than the RWD pulley. Both bolt on and are the correct depth. I'm wondering if its a good idea to put on the FWD pulley and turn the WP a little slower. Any ideas?


Any reason the oil filter adapter can't be bolted on like this? It clears the starter I'm just not sure it will clear the frame.

[ericjon262]

Any reason the oil filter adapter can't be bolted on like this? It clears the starter I'm just not sure it will clear the frame.

it'll make oil changes messy...

[Mars]

Bolt the filter right to the motor, easy access once its in there.

I bet whatever paint you used on the pipes will melt off instantly. haha.

11.13 is the quickest I went on that setup. I'm sure you'll go quicker. That was a 3.27 gear.

Good Luck !!

[caffeine]

Ya I just threw some high-temp header paint on there. I don't expect it to last but it lasted a few months on my v8 headers. I just hate installing dirty parts haha

[caffeine]

Wow according to the f-body.org gear ratio calculator I should be in 5th gear at the end of the 1/4 haha

[caffeine]

So I was jut reviewing the NHRA rules for running in the 10s and it turns out that an SFI bellhousing and flywheel are required (among other things). Should I invest in those things? I have no idea how strict the local tracks are. I was planning on caging the car and installing a driveshaft safety loop anyway.

Lakewood makes an LT1 bellhousing in the $500-600 range but it probably requires modification just like the stock one.

[caffeine]

I emailed Lakewood to find out the cost of a custom bellhousing or a lightly modded lt1-style bellhousing so I guess I'll hear back from them tomorrow. If it's too much I think I'll just buy a Lakewood LT1 bellhousing and mod it as required.

Anyone know if there's an SFI harmonic balancer available?

Edit to add: I thought about it some more and the the Lakewood bellhousing comes with a midplate that bolts to the motor before the bellhousing. It may be possible to drill the V6 bolt pattern into this plate and ditch the adapter plate...

[TGP37]

If they recommend it, better then having lethal bell housing chunks from a grenading flywheel. I bet a flywheel spinning up around 6-7k rpm has got to be like a large saw blade, if it doesn't shatter first.

I've only heard about it, never seen it myself. I feel a little bit better with arp flywheel bolts on mine.

[pocket-rocket]

it'll make oil changes messy...

And cold/dry starts. That's why my truck ticks in start up a lot. The filter lays on its side so most of the oil drains back into the engine when it sits for a while.

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[pocket-rocket]

better then having lethal bell housing chunks from a grenading flywheel. I bet a flywheel spinning up around 6-7k rpm has got to be like a large saw blade

This x10

On a side note, I would have given my car and my left... um, appendage for that car before the incident...

[unchained01]

He is really luck he got away with his foot intact !!! Holy hell

[caffeine]

Ya I'm definitely getting an SFI bellhousing. Even if I have to modify one its going to be stronger than a stock aluminum one.

[pocket-rocket]

I'm considering fabricating one for my fwd. Loosing an arm or head could make for a bad day.

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[caffeine]

For fwd I could see it being easier to just make a steel shield to go over the bellhousing.

[caffeine]

I DO think the SFI harmonic balancer requirement is kinda silly though. I don't see how a 10 sec car would put any more stress on the balancer than an 11 sec car, with the exception of a supercharged engine. After all, the rpms are the same and I would expect an average 10 sec car to be turning less accessories. And at around $400 its a big expense for something that I don't think matters a whole lot.