dry-sump oiling and cam/oil-pump gear

[Driver_10]

Its been a while since Ive worked on the "never-ending" project, so now that I have better tools and some better work-space ive gotten back to doing what I do best... spending too much money on car stuff and blowing up engines

Anyway, Im converting a 3500 to dry-sump oiling and need one small question answered. Since Im pulling the oil-pump completely from the block, the pump shaft will be removed too. If the pump shaft isnt installed, is there any potential damage that can occur to the cam gear without the pump shaft supporting it from the bottom?

Is there a way to delete it entirely?

BTW... NRE sells some really cheaply priced, high quality race oil-pumps. Roughly $150 per section!

[3400-95-Modified]

Just install a distributor cap without the gear in place... its running nothing so why leave that in there. Just tap the roll pin out remove the gear then tap the shaft through the top of distributor collar and pop out the top plug, when your done removing that shaft just put the plug back in the top of the distributor collar... I did that to one of mine but left the top plug out so I could use in conjunction with a oil primer, that collar has to be there to direct oil to the lifter galley.

[pocket-rocket]

Just install a distributor cap without the gear in place... its running nothing so why leave that in there. Just tap the roll pin out remove the gear then tap the shaft through the top of distributor collar and pop out the top plug, when your done removing that shaft just put the plug back in the top of the distributor collar... I did that to one of mine but left the top plug out so I could use in conjunction with a oil primer, that collar has to be there to direct oil to the lifter galley.

:Plus1:

I did this same thing because of what Jon mentions about the collar.


Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

[Driver_10]

Its times like this that I'm reminded how flawed and decrepit my brain really is. I cant believe I looked over something so amazingly simple

Ahem... well now.

*awkward silence with cricket chirping in backround*

[geoffinbc]

Just remember you must have the factory oil pump drive body in the block. It seals the end of the oil gallery. So you cannot just install a freeze plug in the block.

It would also be a good idea to plug the oil passage under the main cap and make a block off plate for the oil filter mount.

Are you supplying oil to the filter mounting pad?

[Driver_10]

Just remember you must have the factory oil pump drive body in the block. It seals the end of the oil gallery. So you cannot just install a freeze plug in the block.

It would also be a good idea to plug the oil passage under the main cap and make a block off plate for the oil filter mount.

Are you supplying oil to the filter mounting pad?

To answer that briefly, yes. The oil will be fed directly through the oil-filter pad via a remote oil-filter adapter.

I'm running a 3-stage / 1.20 pump bodies. It has a 12an return outlet and two 10an inlets for the vacuum sections. The single "pump-stage" has 10an draw and outlet ports. The pump should be able to pull around 1-2in/hg at idle and 7-8in/hg at mid to full rpm.

I wanted to run a fully sealed engine to ensure full negative pressure in the crankcase. However, this would lead to more frequent oil changes from moisture accumulation. I would be open to suggestions on this.

The only idea that I can think of is perhaps a common breather tank attached to both valve covers with a vacuum regulator and an RPM activated solenoid valve. This way the engine can be entirely sealed above cruising RPM with regulated vacuum at cruising operation.

[Driver_10]

:Plus1:

I did this same thing because of what Jon mentions about the collar.


Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

You running a "dry-sump" system as well? If so how much did you pay for your pump?

[pocket-rocket]

You running a "dry-sump" system as well? If so how much did you pay for your pump?

No, I'm not. I meant about using am old distributor plug modified to be used as a priming tool.

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

[3400-95-Modified]

Just remember you must have the factory oil pump drive body in the block. It seals the end of the oil gallery. So you cannot just install a freeze plug in the block.

Just install a distributor cap without the gear in place... its running nothing so why leave that in there. Just tap the roll pin out remove the gear then tap the shaft through the top of distributor collar and pop out the top plug, when your done removing that shaft just put the plug back in the top of the distributor collar... I did that to one of mine but left the top plug out so I could use in conjunction with a oil primer, that collar has to be there to direct oil to the lifter galley.

Yeah I thought I said that already...

[geoffinbc]

Well you were calling it distributor so I just ignored your post

[3400-95-Modified]

well it still is the distributor hole... We are just lucky enough to have 3 coils than a cap and rotor to deal with.