Camshaft and Heads. Help on parts.

[PerfectCreature]

I want to make sure I have the parts list 100% accurate.
I have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Am, 3.4.
I would like to get the MPG/Torque camshaft to have more low end grunt, and maybe save on gas prices a bit.

This is a daily driver, which I would like to get more power out of. I do not plan to race/boost, mainly looking at getting a bit of a power increase.
I am open to suggestions if they are reasonable and will offer a better improvement for the money.
I have a stock tune, no way to get a HP Tuners tune, DHP tuners tune, and no dyno tunes as they are 4-5 hours away.
I may consider a mail order tune if they can do it right given all the mods I would be getting.
Anyway.

I plan to get new heads, as my headgasket is deteriorating and I have a leak.
I figure, might as well.

Here is the list I was looking at:
All parts from WOT-Tech.

Stage 1 Heads (I was debating over stage 2-is the extra $150 worth it?)
Regular Milling
Stock Valves
Blue LS Springs
LS1 Spring Seats and Stem Seals. * .553 Guide.
Everything else was going to be stock.

I was recommended if I do replace the cam, to replace the bearings and the timing chain. It was advised my best bet would be to get the 94-99 timing chain set.
Should I get teflon coated cam bearings? Or is that not needed?
I am on the edge on whether or not to get the cam, I was quotes around 12 hours for a cam install. I was quoted about 6-8 hours for the head install.

Does all of this look right?
Any suggestions? Did I get everything right?
The labor seems a bit much, does that match up? (I was told it is "by the book")
Thank you.

I was also debating just tossing in a 3500 engine, but I have ported and polished UIM/LIM "Sportsman"....so I was a bit on edge.

[robert 1980]

Well i purchased a set of street/strip 3500 heads.And think it was a great deal.The port work looks awesome.New everything and ready to bolt to my 3400.I picked up wide teflon bearings.Which was a good idea because one of mine was falling apart.I picked up the last DRTC and also love it.But it's not necessary older GM 94-99 timing sets work great too.I picked up GM headgaskets.My cam is custom same almost as the street/strip cam ben offers now.New total seal rings too.And arp headbolts.Im very luck to know jon.He helped me so much tuning and putting the engine together again=)

[robert 1980]

But whatever you do take your time.I did the same thing as you last year=)

[PerfectCreature]

Well, the heads I am almost certain to do those.
The camshaft I am not sure....
I do know that the Guide goes to .520 should I stay stock.
Everywhere I go I was quoted you need to pull the engine to do the cam. I am unable to pull the engine myself. I can do minor job, but not large ones like that.

[robert 1980]

You can use stock springs if you go with the MPG camshaft wot offers.But it says you might get valve float after so much rpm.
Also says longer push rods work better.I needed comp springs for the lift of my cam. Thats why the street/strip heads worked perfect for me.Just figure out what you can spend.And go from there.

[PerfectCreature]

Well, it is going to have to be a no go for the cams. I called around and all shops quoted me about 10 hours worth of job time for the camshaft alone.
I do not want to spend that much money for a camshaft.
The heads I am still game for.
Do any of those figures change without the new camshaft, and with it being stock (staying stock)?

[onefastV6]

I might be a little biased, but I would go this route.
(Basically my setup, other than I did a 3500 swap with 3400 upper and 62mm TB)

Stock 3500 Heads
Stock 3500 LIM
Stock 3400 UIM
Stock Pushrods
94-99 GM Timing Set
Durabond Teflon SBC Cam Bearing
MPG/Torque Cam
Comp 26986 Valve Springs

[robert 1980]

The wide cam bearings are a good idea either way.
If it's just to add alittle more power.You won't need a huge camshaft.I kept mine in the middle somewhere.
I have the comp 26986 springs.There a good idea to help with valve floating.
I also have a 65mm TB.And i have your old/new camshaft=)
Im happy so far with the route i took.I should have a WHP number from the dyno this weekend.Might give you a better idea on what gains you'll see.Remember 3500 heads lower compression alittle.So if your keeping stock pistons maybe just work with the 3400 ones?

[PerfectCreature]

This is what I will be ordering, I will be placing the order tomorrow afternoon.
I want to make sure this list if good, and matched the way it should be based on my car:
2003 Pontiac Grand Am, 3400.

>> 3400 Cylinder Heads (2003-2005)
>> Stage 1 Porting
>> Spring Pockets: Stock
>> Milling: Yes-Regular
>> Valve Job: Yes
>>
>> LS Blue Springs
>> LS1 Valve Spring Seats .553'' OD Guide
>> Valve Stem Seals for LS1 Seats .553'' OD Guide
>
>> Felpro Headgasket Kit (I will pick up the T-Stat, Head Bolts, and LIM/UIM Bolts from the dealership)

[SappySE107]

Reuse your intake bolts, just add loctite. They aren't torque to yield. Felpro head bolts will work fine. I can't imagine what the dealership would want for head bolts.

[PerfectCreature]

I don't know about the headbolts, but I do know the UIM/LIM bolts are about $30 from dealership. I know, because I just did a LIM/UIM job about 3 months ago.
Other then that, hopefully it goes well.
I am hoping this will take care of the white gunk I have had on the cap of my coolant reservoir for some time.
I guess we will see.
Ben( SappySE107 ), I will place the order probably sometime in the afternoon, once I get off work. (Do you put the springs, seats and seals together when you ship the heads?)
Thanks for the help through the emails.

[PerfectCreature]

Just as a side note, are the 3500 valves a huge increase to justify $140?
Mostly stock, Short Ram Intake, P&P UIM/LIM and will have the Pacesetter Exhaust. No future mods will be done after this.

[SappySE107]

If you were doing a more serious performance build, I would say they are worth the flow increase and weight loss. Im not sure its worth 140 for what you are doing.

[PerfectCreature]

That is what I figured, I guess I will have to really think about if I will be doing anything else, performance mod wise to the car....
Also, for my core charge on my heads, did you want the old valves, springs and seals as well?
Thanks for the information.

[PerfectCreature]

If you were doing a more serious performance build, I would say they are worth the flow increase and weight loss. Im not sure its worth 140 for what you are doing.

Okay, I opted for the stock 3400 valves. I did some looking around, and since I plan to not get a camshaft or really go boosted, stock 3400 would be just fine.
I placed the order and sent an email regarding our previous discussions.
Thank you for the time and effort, it does mean a lot to me.