block and crank metallurgy / max power potential

[blarson]

Does anyone know if the metallurgical composition (more for curiosity's sake than true need for specifics) of the 3.4 L32 block and crank and how it compares with the higher hp motors in the transverse family? I race endurance with this motor in a swapped chevette.

I understand these motors are close to their maximum performance potential but I managed to run an entire 24 hour race with a high mileage 2.8 from a blazer so I'm skeptical. I haven't tried the 3.4 yet but if I'm still not competitive in a straight line I'm going looking for more power yet again and I'm maxed for displacement in longitudinal family.

I'd rather upgrade a few components moderately than go through the hassle of reconfiguring mounts, etc for a transverse motor. Am I asking for near immediate failure if I swap the heads (or put a small turbo on it) to get a few extra ponies on a fresh rebuild?

[geoffinbc]

Well the 3X00 blocks have a stronger bottom end because of the cross bolted mains. The oiling system is also a bit better. The cranks are identical.

If you are running iron heads naturally aspirated then there is no way that you are taxing the bottom end. You should be able to survive at 300HP all day long with boost if you keep detonation at bay. Adding main studs will improve durability but will require an align hone. I know there are people here with more power than than but I don't think they are running kind of endurance race.

[blarson]

Well the 3X00 blocks have a stronger bottom end because of the cross bolted mains. The oiling system is also a bit better. The cranks are identical.

If you are running iron heads naturally aspirated then there is no way that you are taxing the bottom end. You should be able to survive at 300HP all day long with boost if you keep detonation at bay. Adding main studs will improve durability but will require an align hone. I know there are people here with more power than than but I don't think they are running kind of endurance race.

I suspected that the 3x00 series had a slightly different block architecture but was having a heck of a time locating anything about it. Now I know. Thanks!

Do you happen to know if anyone has successfully retro converted 3.4 their block/caps to the cross bolt design? I don't need to go there but I'm very curious. I am delighted to hear that with the right engine management the motor can take that kind of power reliably.

Thanks again!

[geoffinbc]

Well the cross bolted caps go through the oil pan so you would need to make an oil pan too since the 3400 oil pan will not bolt to the old blocks.

It would be much easier to make new mounts for the 3400 block.

The 3400 also offers roller lifters, a cam thrust plate and priority main oiling along with the cross bolted mains. All these things give it more power potential and better reliability.

http://members.shaw.ca/betterthanyoutoo/660info/blocks.htm

[Superdave]

Using a FWD block in a RWD app is not that bad, Motor mounts and a little creativity is all it takes.

[45es]

Using a FWD block in a RWD app is not that bad, Motor mounts and a little creativity is all it takes.

What would be the best way or should I say better way to address the starter and clutch for RWD app?

[Superdave]

Check out "MidnightriderZ24"s thread on his BMW swap. IIRC he's using a T5 with the FWD block and found a bellhousing.flywheel/clutch combo that worked.

I used a 700R4 and only had to cut a hole in the dust shield for the opposite starter and used a flexplate for a 95 2.2L S10.


good luck!