3400 lifter issue, TCE lifter springs installed

[SappySE107]

10 per 1k RPM. If its not that, something isn't right. If its over that, you are wasting HP turning the oil pump to create that much pressure. As far as what is normal, 20-30 idle, and much much more at 3000+ RPM.

10w-30 helps my 3.4 DOHC. I think 20w-50 would be solid. BMWs run super thick oil so I am going to give it a shot on this next oil change.

[bob442]

well i didnt get over 25 at idle, that was at about 1000-1200RPM, i had taken the car for a rip a hour prior. I just dumped out 2 liters of 5w30 and put in 2 liters of 0w40, i'll see what happens, have a CEL that came on and i dont have the scan tool right now, i didnt have anything disconected, its most likely for the mas air as i had the breather tube off the valve cover, (odviously) but it never logged a code before... I hope it clears itself, i have the ECU and battery disconnected, i know it worked for OBDI, and sometimes with OBDII if its not a "stored code"

[TGP37]

you had 5w30, poured in 0w40. You are thinning the oil when cold and making it thicker at 210F. The # before the W is cold viscosity (winter viscosity). Lowering it makes the oil thinner when cold. The number after the W (also w/o any W) is the rated viscosity at 210F/100C.

So you got 3W34, lol

You should try 0W30 first and if you need a little more pressure when hot, hit up 0W40.

If your oil pressure is too high, get a lower number. And visa-versa



At least you know your bearings are in good shape



Ben, I always wondered if there was a standard to acceptable oil pressure.

[bob442]

I'm gonna change the lower, small spring in the lifters tonight and put in a 160*f thermostat


Sent from my iPhone using my iPhone at work cuz I have nothing to do

[SappySE107]

Put the stock cam back in and tell me how it sounds. 160 stat is only going to lower your MPG and oil change intervals.

[pocket-rocket]

I remember reading a 160 stat will accelerate cylinder wall wear, too.

10w30 helps my car too (then again, so did Lucas), but when I get it out and get it road ready, I'm tearing into the top end to do the oiling update fix that Schurkey posted.

[bob442]

What update is that?


Sent from my iPhone using my iPhone at work cuz I have nothing to do

[pocket-rocket]

It's for the DOHC, not the pushrods.

http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthread.php/49738-LQ1-Service-Bulletin-57-61-09-Lifter-tick-%28cold%29

On mine it gets bad enough to tick if I'm in the "DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!" mode, which happens often in that poor car.

[geldartb]

I'm gonna change the lower, small spring in the lifters tonight and put in a 160*f thermostat


Sent from my iPhone using my iPhone at work cuz I have nothing to do

why do you feel you need the 160 thermostat. stock ones do just fine

i've been running mine since june 0f 09 with the LT1 springs inside my lifters and the engine sound has never changed and below is the video from that month. i haven't taken the engine apart since it went back together back in 09.

http://s60.photobucket.com/albums/h5/95blackz26/Videos/?action=view&current=100_0844.mp4

this is my update thread

http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthread.php/43839-Brendan-s-99-Grand-Am-GT-update

[bob442]

i feel the need to change the thermostst because if i dont have the fans bypassed to run all the time, the heat gets to just about half, and it starts knocking, and runs like shit, if i keep it nice and cool it hallllllllsssss AAAASSSSSSSS. which is in about 1/4 temp, and it runs with the fans on at just about 1/4, and its only +8 outside lately. in traffic it gets a bit higher, remember i'm the only one here running 11.5:1 that i know of on this site, and yes i've heard of a few people having 12.3:1 but they never seem to surface

[SappySE107]

I have tuned 11+:1 compression 60V6s and none of them have ever had a problem with operating temps. Try tuning it.

[pocket-rocket]

If the fans are running at 1/4 temp on the gauge then I would be looking at air pockets in the cooling system.

It sounds like there is something being overlooked causing that problem. I would look for the root cause, not band-aid it. Band-aiding it could kill engine life/reliability.

[bob442]

the run that it got hot, it had air pockets. As for tuning i cant seem to save a buck right now for dyno time, which is 125$/hr, plus the tuners time which is 75$/hr, he said it usually takes 2-3 hours. i gotta do my taxes soon so we'll see what happens. I booked it pretty hard on the highway today from work and it seems to have gotten "quieter" atleast when it was warm. i'm gonna give it another bleed tonight and then go for a boot and see how hot it gets. I went over the cooling system, i had changed a hose back to stock (above water pump to the LIM) had a bit of a kinck in it, i was hopping to be able to run the blue hose but oh well. And my car sounds Geldatb's, which is ironic i guess.

[SappySE107]

200 an hour * 3 hours = buy a programmer and do it yourself. If you have poor performance when the engine is at operating temp, on a stock tune, you should probably deal with that rather than tear the motor apart 4+ times for lifter springs.

[bob442]

i dont know what i'm doing LOL, and the time i have to invest in learning how to use it, i could get a side job in the drive way and spend 6 hours doing that to make up the money. Getting a tuner was the original idea, the car runs great on the base tune for the most part anyways. I just need to get some work flowing through at home, i got nothing now, maybe a timing belt on a honda this weekend