262's 85 Fiero SE LX9 F23 swap thread lots of pics

[TGP37]

the best learning to me, is with a torch in my hand. the youtube stuff helps, but it's nothing like holding the real deal and doing it.

Well yeah, but watching others will allow their knowledge from hours of trial and error to be passed on to you w/o going through as much trial and error yourself.

In a way, learning from others is simply learning something you would have figured out on your own, just sooner.

[3400-95-Modified]

Well yeah, but watching others will allow their knowledge from hours of trial and error to be passed on to you w/o going through as much trial and error yourself.

In a way, learning from others is simply learning something you would have figured out on your own, just sooner.

I agree... I welded stainless and saw what the inside of the weld looked like and then watched the video and went OHHHHHHH that's why it looks like hell inside... Trust me, I do agree that hands on learning is nice but hands on testing blind is no fun it's just time wasting... It's nice to have some info to do the testing with so you can master a method that's known to work, rather than trying to re-create the wheel and figure out all the tricks on your own.

[TGP37]

On the topic of welding, Argon is 38% heavier then sea level atmosphere. Knowing that I imagine the shielding gas flow like water instead of drifting away like smoke.

I bet capping a pipe to be welded could as simple as standing up right and "pouring" argon into it like a cup of water. The argon leaking out the seams to be welded would be very well shielded all around.

To be even more curious, I bet a gas wall (simple steel box w/ no top) could be placed around the working piece to gather the Argon. Almost like submerging the work in a pool of Argon. Being heavier most should stay in the area as long as it can't escape downhill.


Knowing this, it would make sense to introduce the shield gas from above instead of from below.



This I gathered on my own, input? It seems right. I do remember learning something similar about Argon asphyxiation in a closed area, if a bottle ever depressurized rapidly. That and it would be cold as #$%&!

[3400-95-Modified]

That makes perfect sense and I've always loved those videos you see online where they illustrate gas that weighs more than air.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PJTq2xQiQ0

[TGP37]

That makes perfect sense and I've always loved those videos you see online where they illustrate gas that weighs more than air.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PJTq2xQiQ0

Ahh that's great, never seen that before.

[NateD4]

What you are talking about is called back purging. When I first got into TIG I had a water jet shop make me the parts for a back purge head. It looks kinda like a shower head. Mine is rectangular about 1.5 x 3" it allows you to keep gas in back of any thin or full penetration weld. For exhaust I recommend a round one with radial holes more like a gas heater or lantern would have.

Another trick is to shove wet rags into the tube at both ends and put an argon hose in it. Wait a minute or two and it should be purged.

I've heard of people using rubber balls to do the same. The weld quality inside is usually quite good.

MIG wise prefer argon but I've heard mixed opinions on CO2 vs Argon.

The pouring idea is similar to inert gas atmosphere chambers. They can be price pensive. The simplest is an aquarium with a lid. Drexel some holes if you want gloves.

Other pro grade chambers are inflatable vinyl like bags. You put your part in them. Zip closed like a tent and they inflate... Weld away.

[TGP37]

What you are talking about is called back purging. When I first got into TIG I had a water jet shop make me the parts for a back purge head. It looks kinda like a shower head. Mine is rectangular about 1.5 x 3" it allows you to keep gas in back of any thin or full penetration weld. For exhaust I recommend a round one with radial holes more like a gas heater or lantern would have.

Another trick is to shove wet rags into the tube at both ends and put an argon hose in it. Wait a minute or two and it should be purged.

I've heard of people using rubber balls to do the same. The weld quality inside is usually quite good.

MIG wise prefer argon but I've heard mixed opinions on CO2 vs Argon.

The pouring idea is similar to inert gas atmosphere chambers. They can be price pensive. The simplest is an aquarium with a lid. Drexel some holes if you want gloves.

Other pro grade chambers are inflatable vinyl like bags. You put your part in them. Zip closed like a tent and they inflate... Weld away.

Shower head, love it. Gonna add that to my mental list of back purging tools to build. I also want to make one that pushes gas around a 360 axis. When placed in the pipe, blows gas onto the seams.

I can see the chamber being over kill for these projects, but the back purge concepts are great. Love the shower head idea.



Sorry ERIC, not thread jacking ya.

[3400-95-Modified]

My practice welds and what I learned...

This is all Argon with no back purge on either mild or stainless

Mild steel Tig


Inside Mild steel no gas


Tig Stainless


Tig Stainless inside, no gas


and just Tig on two heavy plates...

[NateD4]

The 360 axis one is what I meant by a radial flow one.

[NateD4]

Your welds look pretty good. I've found it best to put heat into the part and adjust weld bead size prior to moving. That helps keep bead size consistent.

[ericjon262]

finally got around to putting the dashboard back in (page 17) hopefully I'll have the cluster back in soon too. anyone got a preference on a boost gauge? I'm gonna need one, that and a WB02.

[cavalier3400z]

I like glowshift elite 10, I have 8 of their gauges.

[3400-95-Modified]

Don't get any of the low end prosport electronic gauges... I had two one boost gauge for my legacy and one fuel pressure one for my Beretta... BOTH would spaz out if the car was left in the sun and the pod or where the gauge was stored got hot... the needle would bounce all over the place.
I like the PLX wideband because it uses a standard easy to buy Bosch sensor, and they last quite a while. I've had mine in my cars for a few years now and don't have any odd variations or mixed readings from them vs the stock sensors.

[Guest]

Take a look at the 14point7.com WB products. I've been using one for years as a tuning tool for when I tune other people's vehicles. I plan to swap my LC1 for a 14point7.com product at some point, just haven't got around to it yet.

I own an Auto Meter Boost gauge, and it's nice, but I'm selling it along with all of my other Auto Meter gauges, but haven't found a replacement I like. I think I'm going to have to make it myself to get something I am truly happy with.

[ericjon262]

I've already ordered the LC1 WB from ben, but I was under the impression it didn't come with a gauge, which I would like to have.