262's 85 Fiero SE LX9 F23 swap thread lots of pics

[3400-95-Modified]

I setup a 2 bar map on a 97 Venture ECU for a friend in his Beretta.

[ericjon262]

for some reason. I'm not getting coolant flow through the engine. it's very slowly coming up to operating temp, and then overheating. not really sure why. I've bled the crap out of it, and it didn't really help. I can tell I'm not getting good flow because the coolant tube going under the car aren't getting hot, nor is the radiator. I'm gonna replace the thermostat and see if that helps.

[ericjon262]

turns out, my thermostat was FUBAR'd. the disc wouldn't come off it's seat at all. replaced it and put on a new thermostat housing with a bleed valve on it as well. seems to be working much better.

[ericjon262]

drove it today, I found it desperately needs 3 things:

1. tune, obviously
2. alignment, at 55mph or so, the car is everywhere.
3. headlights. mine suck, bad,

the combination of the two makes for a terrifying drive at night. not only can you not see where your going, but you don't know where your going either!

[ericjon262]

I've noticed something odd... my wideband o2 is bouncing all over, while the narrow band seems to be almost static showing 14.7... it's not throwing a CEL, but it doesn't seem to track with what I was expecting to see. it's also really weird to me that the a/f goes up to 14.7 without ever going down, just up up up up stop @ 14.7 something doesn't seem right, any ideas?

I also think the a/d input on the DHP might not be working, it shows a reletively static voltage, but the gauge shows quite a bit of swing.

I attached the log, and bin file used.I swapped out the sensor, and it acted normal, then after a short amount of runtime, it went back to this...

Thanks for the help.

-Eric

[ericjon262]

a/f ratio was just me being stupid... not much to report, the car has run on an L67 bin file, but things get real weird after it's warmed up. I think I may have found a better starter file to work with anyways though. I'll post results of the new file soon. the car runs pretty good, but for some reason keeps overheating. I've swapped thermostats, and seen no real change in performance, even though the original was stuck real bad. the cooling tubes going under the car are hot on the discharge side, and cold on the suction side. I'm not sure how much of a temperature drop to expect across the radiator, but it seems too extreme for there to be significant flow through the radiator. I've tried bleeding the system several times, on both sides of the block and seen no real improvement. I'm starting to wonder if something is clogging a tube somewhere.

on another note, the car likes to blow the maf coupling at about 10 PSI...

[LeftVentricle]

I know this is going to sound very elementary, but have you tried running without a thermostat to see if anything changes?

[ericjon262]

I know this is going to sound very elementary, but have you tried running without a thermostat to see if anything changes?

no, and running without one can make problems worse, it causes pressure in the engine block and heads to be lowered, therefore the coolant is closer to saturation/boiling, and may locally boil, causing steam pockets and an even hotter engine. I am going to pull the thermostat and test it though.

I am having problems again with my powrtuner... this thing is starting to bug me enough to actively consider going obd1... start a datalog, and it doesn't log anything, or it logs some data, and not all of it.... why? I don't know, the thing is finickier than my ex...

[ericjon262]

I've started getting parts together to go to obd1. the only big things obd2 has to offer me is MAF, and SFI. both of which I can do without.

[robertisaar]

assuming my new job doesn't keep kicking my ass, I may finalize MAF support for both the nAst1 and P66 V6 projects at some point.

[ericjon262]

my first "successful" aluminum TIG welds...

[Guest]

Cool. Do yourself a favour though and add a support bracket from the rad cap fitting to the head or front cover, so that when you push down on the cap too install or remove it, you won't break the thermostat housing.

[ericjon262]

assuming my new job doesn't keep kicking my ass, I may finalize MAF support for both the nAst1 and P66 V6 projects at some point.

do you think it will be possible to integrate MAF, and flex fuel? or is it going to be a one or the other type deal?

[ericjon262]

Cool. Do yourself a favour though and add a support bracket from the rad cap fitting to the head or front cover, so that when you push down on the cap too install or remove it, you won't break the thermostat housing.

it's a good idea, but I think I'll just put my other hand under it while I do it. and if I break it... I'll weld it up again.

[robertisaar]

do you think it will be possible to integrate MAF, and flex fuel? or is it going to be a one or the other type deal?

depends, how much external circuitry do you want to deal with? with limited inputs that can read period and pulse on-time measurements, I would suggest just the MAF be used for it. if you wanted flex-fuel capability, I would run its signal through a frequency-voltage converter to make a 0-5V signal that could be read on a plain a/d input. wouldn't be able to read fuel temp, but that seems less critical.