262's 85 Fiero SE LX9 F23 swap thread lots of pics

[ericjon262]

Why are you running the ground cable all the way from the battery to the back?

I don't have a good place for a ground up front where the battery is going.

Why are you running the ground cable all the way from the battery to the back?

[ericjon262]

ordered 30' of welding cable for my remote mount battery, then I decided to shrink boot them together to help with packaging.

[ericjon262]

The dashboard is "done"!



I'm going to do the door panels the same way. It looks awesome in person!

For $5 more you can get many more features using the 14point7.com SLC_DIY, including additional inputs, that can be logged via WinLog.

For $10 less you can get the same functionality as that Glowshift piece.

For more you can have the SLC_PP2 that can log data from multiple inputs to an SD card. Then there's the iDash, which has some very cool features that will link to a phone or laptop via WiFi.

[TGP37]

Glowshift sells cheap WB set ups. Not too bad as long as you calibrate properly and compare the GS gauge readings to the NBO2 sensor at stoich.

"Bitterness of a cheap product remains long after the sweetness of a great deal fades away"

For $185, not a bad deal if you need something just for visual reference after tuning. link

[ericjon262]

I'm going obd2, hence my master pinout thread in the obd 2 section, there's still a few missing pins, it's a work in progress. the gauge I'll be needing the most will be a boost gauge, I will be able to log the WB data through the DHP like 3400-95-modified said. I'd still like to have a gauge though so I can see real time where I stand.

[3400-95-Modified]

I use the PLX systems because both of my scanning suites for the Beretta and the Subaru have support for them via USB input. I can't modify what the Beretta software scans either because I'm still using UVScan that was being developed after DHP closed up but UVScan has also come to an end a few years ago unfortunately. I'd love to find another scanning suite that supports the DHP device and my wideband's with all the info I want to scan. Worse case I could always use the a/d inputs on my DHP to log the wideband input.

[TGP37]

You can run the wideband through the EGR position signal line or the A/C pressure signal line, both are 0-5v. Then log that sensor and use this formula........

(EGRvolt * 2)+10

Mine is in HPT is using the EGR for now. Though some believe it causes problems w/ the tuning using the EGR signal line. I believe the A/C pressure signal line should be fine. I can't see A/C pressure messing with the spark or AFR like the EGR might with spark when logging wideband through it.

([PID.2811]*2)+9.8


You using stock PCM? OBDI or II? I forget.....

The LC1 doesn't come with a gauge. I have mine running into the ECM. I then have the output displayed on a TunerViewII.

I will NEVER own an LC-1 again. I had 2 at one point, and sold off my second one, because of the serial connectivity issues. I had a serial to USB converter which did work for a while, actually I had 2. Neither wanted to work with the LC-1 under Win7, and didn't want to go back to WinXP to find out if that would get it to work, because it would have been more hassle than it was worth at the time.

The 14point7 products have native USB and work flawlessly, no need for free air calibrations, many features at a price point less than an competing products. I own the SLC_DIY v1, that was a complete solder up kit, built in display, extra inputs, etc, all for less than the price of the LC-1. The v2 is pre-assembled, with the only thing needed to assemble by the end user is the harness. There's other versions that are simpler, and cheaper, and others with more features like onboard datalogging, for more money.

Don't get me wrong, my LC-1 has worked in my car for about 5 years now, but since I can't connect to the serial connection with my laptop (no native serial port), I'm screwed if I need to check any settings or make adjustments. I'm actually selling it to a friend of mine since he has a laptop with a serial port and will fit the set-up of his car better than the WBO2 he was going to use.

Depending on what code you will be running in your ECM, you may or may not need a gauge. Some code has been set up to display WBO2 data in the datastream. You can use any gauge that accepts a 0 - 5V linear input. For ease of set-up an Innovate gauge would be easiest.

[ericjon262]

got my cluster installed, need to finish installing all the trim pieces. I've also started re gluing the center console back together, I'll try to get some pics tonight!

[ericjon262]

I've already ordered the LC1 WB from ben, but I was under the impression it didn't come with a gauge, which I would like to have.

Take a look at the 14point7.com WB products. I've been using one for years as a tuning tool for when I tune other people's vehicles. I plan to swap my LC1 for a 14point7.com product at some point, just haven't got around to it yet.

I own an Auto Meter Boost gauge, and it's nice, but I'm selling it along with all of my other Auto Meter gauges, but haven't found a replacement I like. I think I'm going to have to make it myself to get something I am truly happy with.

[3400-95-Modified]

Don't get any of the low end prosport electronic gauges... I had two one boost gauge for my legacy and one fuel pressure one for my Beretta... BOTH would spaz out if the car was left in the sun and the pod or where the gauge was stored got hot... the needle would bounce all over the place.
I like the PLX wideband because it uses a standard easy to buy Bosch sensor, and they last quite a while. I've had mine in my cars for a few years now and don't have any odd variations or mixed readings from them vs the stock sensors.

[cavalier3400z]

I like glowshift elite 10, I have 8 of their gauges.