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262's 85 Fiero SE LX9 F23 swap thread lots of pics
looked back over the pinouts, and I was missing a second IGN + in pin 24 on the clear connector.
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
Cool deal, isn't it gratifying to see the dash light up?
One thing I do different is I don't twist the wires together. I push the tips together so the copper inter-twines with each other. It provides space for the solder to fill and lock them together real well. It also reduces the size of the soldered joint dramatically and looks real professional. In some cases the soldered joint is smaller then the wires insulation. Barely larger then the copper itself. I was kind of amazed solder could hold so well in such a way.
Don't mind my ramblings, just another enthusiast passing on mistakes I made and tips I learned. Interestingly, I have been "tightening" up the wiring in my turbo for the last few days. I had a LOT of unneeded wire from the auto trans being pulled out for a manual. I couldn't believe how much cleaner it looks with the extras gone.
Another issue I had that puzzled me after the first wiring run, fuses. It seems they can become loose if removed often and will wiggle slightly. Which, when driving, can cause intermittent breaks in the circuit. That was a headache to diagnose.
Can't wait to see your Fiero run, boost up.
You have any certain songs you want to burn for your first rock out spirited drive?
1996 Grand Prix | 3100v6 L82 | T04E-50 Turbo | Getrag 282 w/ EP LSD | SPEC-3 Clutch
Cool deal, isn't it gratifying to see the dash light up?
very, among other things, I was having problems with the CEL circuit before the swap, I just figured anything that could be causing the problem would be replaced during the swap... I about shit my pants when it wasn't working right this time...
You have any certain songs you want to burn for your first rock out spirited drive?
probably either some Queens of the Stone Age, or some older Alice in Chains, maybe a little Faith no More. maybe I'll just turn the radio on and what's on is on...
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
I got a bunch of parts in today, including some of the drain fittings for the turbo...
Damn they're huge! lol...
I also got a little bit more work on the downpipe done but it keeps raining outside where the car is, so progress has been slow...
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
Stopped raining long enough for me to get a little bit of work done on the downpipe.
routing wise, the downpipe is done. I'm going to add a flex pipe in the straight section right before the muffler, and a V band at the muffler inlet.
to finish the downpipe, I still need to:
fully weld each seam(tacked now)
weld in the o2 sensor bungs
obtain and weld in the flex pipe
integrate the wastegate dump.
I also have everything to finish the fuel system now, except for the TCE rail fittings, and the line itself.
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
Should basically work like stock until you hit boost then opens up to the turbo inlet. Since it only uses the turbo inlet under boost it will be working when the turbo will be pulling the most suction.
Should basically work like stock until you hit boost then opens up to the turbo inlet. Since it only uses the turbo inlet under boost it will be working when the turbo will be pulling the most suction.
that looks like it's probably the best idea, I would install a small vent on the other valve cover though, so it pulls in fresh air to "clean" the oil.
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
so I'm thinking I might run the mock up motor for the first start, and as kind of a "shake down" before I go full bore with the built motor, esp since my machinist is taking 50 forevers with the machine work... it should help me get a base tune nailed down though.
Thoughts?
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
If you're running a stock cam in the mock-up motor, it could change the tune a lot. Speaking from personal experience.
well, I could throw the regrind I have in it, but yeah, it's a stock cam.
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
that looks like it's probably the best idea, I would install a small vent on the other valve cover though, so it pulls in fresh air to "clean" the oil.
Or do both and use a restriction. Allows for more vacuum AND bleeds in fresh air.
Vacuum will do more to keep the oil clean versus fresh air feed. Vacuum reduces blow-by through stronger ring sealing where fresh air feed just dilutes it. Besides, to get the fresh air in the crank case there must be a negative pressure gradient present anyways.
I gotta say Nick-G, I was thinking up the same set up the last few days. Engine vacuum draws the crank fumes at idle, both draw at part load and the exhaust takes over the draw in boost. Only thing is the check valves need to withstand oil/gas.
Can't a dry sump oil pump also act as crank case ventilation? So says my buddy from across the office.
Or do both and use a restriction. Allows for more vacuum AND bleeds in fresh air.
Vacuum will do more to keep the oil clean versus fresh air feed. Vacuum reduces blow-by through stronger ring sealing where fresh air feed just dilutes it. Besides, to get the fresh air in the crank case there must be a negative pressure gradient present anyways.
I gotta say Nick-G, I was thinking up the same set up the last few days. Engine vacuum draws the crank fumes at idle, both draw at part load and the exhaust takes over the draw in boost. Only thing is the check valves need to withstand oil/gas.
Can't a dry sump oil pump also act as crank case ventilation? So says my buddy from across the office.
I considered using the exhaust myself and even bought a slash cut fitting from summit racing but due to the way my exhaust is setup it won't work in my case. Speaking of which if anyone needs a slash cut ill sell it for cheap.
Forced Induction - The Official Crankcase Evacuation thread for Turbo Hondas / PCV / Catchcan / - This thread marks the conclusion to my preliminary tests started over 1 year ago. You may want to familiarize yourself with the purpose and function of the stock PCV system with my original thread first....
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
still need to add fittings, and it's pretty big though, I might cut it down about 25% to make packaging a little easier.
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
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