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262's 85 Fiero SE LX9 F23 swap thread lots of pics

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  • Will'sFiero
    replied
    Use the stock routing, but just poke a hole in the carpet and run the trunk under the carpet and behind the center console to keep it completely out of sight

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  • ericjon262
    replied
    thanks, I know the feeling of needing more or new workspace. I'm working in a 2 car garage that has 4 cars worth of stuff crammed into it...

    had to cut the fuse/relay center off, with it in place, the passenger seat was noticeably far forward, without, it's almost all the way back. I'm evaluating two different install layouts, one with the wires exiting the side of the car through a previously drilled hole, or following something more akin to the stock routing, but going through the middle of the firewall.

    side:



    stockish:



    I'll probably go through the side, as it will be more concealed, and offer a cleaner install. the only major downfall, is that it becomes almost impossible to remove the harness from the car once installed, but hopefully it won't ever need to be removed, and if it does, it won't be my car anymore...

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  • neophile_17
    replied
    Nice! I'll definitely be watching. Still have an LZ4 on a stand that'll need an MS3 but I've been focused on finding a new work space. It's way past time. Hope to see it running soon!

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  • ericjon262
    replied
    I made a snap decision and sprung for a MS3x.

    here's where I am right now:



    this whole assembly will be mounted behind the passenger seat using the rubber MSD mounts. At this point it is set up like a retrofit install into a carbed car, pretty much add 12 volts to this board, plug stuff in, and you have EFI. it will be full SFI, flexfuel, and I'm currently waiting on connectors and terminals for the ignition coils and injectors.

    I'm hoping this gets me back on the road, soon. we'll see.
    Last edited by ericjon262; 02-19-2017, 02:04 PM.

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  • ericjon262
    replied
    sure am, if there was a problem with it though, I would assume I would get a code. and, that one is a bitch to replace..

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  • LeftVentricle
    replied
    Are you running a 24x sensor?

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  • ericjon262
    replied
    I replaced the 7x sensor, and tested the ignition module already(it's good) the cam sensor is fairly new, I see no reason for it to have just randomly failed... the scan tool is getting an RPM signal, and no codes are being thrown.

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  • LZeppelin513
    replied
    Doesn't the CCP sensor need to signal for IPW? Maybe check that its connected and good.

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  • ericjon262
    replied
    well, this is odd...started the car up the other day, drove about 20 miles, and it just stopped. as if I turned the key off. luckily i was in the driveway when it stopped though. I hooked my scan tool up, and it's not throwing any codes, but I'm also not getting an IPW while cranking. is that normal?

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  • ericjon262
    replied
    did a little exhaust work after replacing the turbo. I think it sounds better. hopefully I'll be driving this thing more soon.

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  • Guest
    Guest replied
    If you think that the primary will get in the way of accessing the plug(s), which it doesn't look like to me, bring it out on more of an angle and wrap it around the other primaries.

    This is how I did mine and have no issues with spark plug access (also a huge concern of mine along with bolt/stud access for actual install and removal of the headers).

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    Here is a front header I built for a turbo Cavalier, where I mounted the turbo above the rear head/rocker cover. Doesn't exit the same place as yours but could be shortened up to do so. I LOVE the look of this header and without even trying all the primaries were within 1/2" of each other's length.
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  • ericjon262
    replied
    Here's version 3.1, my biggest concern is spark plug access. with this design the number 6 primary might be in the way of access to the number 6 spark plug. the longest length is just under 10", the shortest is just over 8"

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  • ericjon262
    replied
    I can make a hard line happen, but won't until the new hotside and turbo go in.

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  • Purple pit
    replied
    Sounds like a better temp set up on the oil line. Time to do the hard line? Didn't think you had much of that kind of thing.

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  • ericjon262
    replied
    Version 3.0...



    not really all that close to equal length, but as the gas velocity goes up, the distance becomes a smaller and smaller part of the big picture. as an added benefit, this design would cost quite a bit less than most of the others previously shown. I can potentially get them closer to equal length by adding spacers in the 180* bend in the #6 primary.it would be super awesome to have a rendering of a 3500 F23 setup right now to do a digital test fit... oh well, just have to take lots of measurements on the one in the garage and verify fitment that way...

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