roller lifters with 2.8

[pocket-rocket]

I've got somewhat of a knockoff called a GearPro. The version I have only does 720p or lower I think, but it came with the waterproof enclosure, handlebar mount, suction cup mount and maybe another 1-2 mounts. I think I paid ~$70-80 USD for it on www.woot.com.

Ps, no sample footage from me, my truck is too boring...

Edit: price drop.... $53+shipping on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Gear-Pro-High-Definition-Action-Wide-Angle-Camcorder/dp/B008JFS5W8

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

[ForcedFirebird]

Nice! The Swann is $99 when on woot.com. We found the 1080p is a little shaky due to the 60fps, but really nice at 720p. Swann comes with mounts, water-proof case, few sticky mounts, remote and lcd rear screen attachment.

[veekuusi]

One billet crankshaft for 2.8 V6 has been ordered from Crower.
It is going to be an internal balance crank.
$3300.

And Ben from WOT TECH helps me with the other parts.
2 new Diamond pistons, 2 Scat connecting rods, bearings ,gaskets,Manley valves and so on.....

And I really hope the engine stays alive longer this time.
Special attention have to be taken to the balance and other things.
I mean bearing clearance , what kind of damper would be the best or something.

"New" block (3100) out of a 1996 Chevrolet Lumina is in my garage ,
it is going to machine shop to "further treatment".
There is some pictures of the new block (remowing cam bearings) :

[Purple pit]

So, is the "so on" 3400 heads?

Don't you have to rebalance after you stick a damper on an IB crank?

[Guest]

Don't you have to rebalance after you stick a damper on an IB crank?

Shouldn't have to, but would be a good idea to check it. That being said, I'm not sure the problems with the last crank weren't entirely not caused by the crank balancing...

[veekuusi]

So, is the "so on" 3400 heads?

Don't you have to rebalance after you stick a damper on an IB crank?

The heads are definately gone, I need new ones.
New 3400 heads as were the old ones.
But we do the head job here,Ben has race ready heads in his shop,
but we think we can save some money by doing the job here.

[1988GTU]

It's looking good from here on out for any prototype/test machinery fabrication work. If you do happen to alter something, it might be beneficial to remove any burrs & hot tank the part(s) prior to installation. Most recently had a project land in my hands that wanted some work done. The supporting items to what I was working on had some apprentice weld work laid down which sent my mind into a cautionary state. Took a couple pokes at it with and sure enough, some of it dislodged. That debris could have caused a bad situation for many.

[Purple pit]

Shouldn't have to, but would be a good idea to check it. That being said, I'm not sure the problems with the last crank weren't entirely not caused by the crank balancing...

I hear you, hard to tell what went wrong. Well even with a zero balance damper it would be a good idea to check it. When the revs start getting up there the fear of little things(that may turn into big ones) nag at me. Pushing stock parts over 6k would keep me awake at night. That is if it is for a road racing car.
It's the over stress point that starts the nag. Where is it? 7k, 7.5K,7.7k or 8K? Just the thought of each time I hit "XXXX" rpm(or near it) that is one step closer to the breaking point. That kind of thing keeps me from building an engine for high RPM, oh and money too.

[ericjon262]

if this was my build, I would go over the block with a carbide burr and de-burr the block, clean up all the casting flash, and maybe look into cryo treatment.

[Purple pit]

The heads are definately gone, I need new ones.
New 3400 heads as were the old ones.
But we do the head job here,Ben has race ready heads in his shop,
but we think we can save some money by doing the job here.

Dang, must have forgot that you had them. Yeah I bet the shipping costs a ton.

[veekuusi]

if this was my build, I would go over the block with a carbide burr and de-burr the block, clean up all the casting flash, and maybe look into cryo treatment.

Mr ericjon262 must be psychic or something.
At least he can read my mind.

This saturday morning I was deburring the block.
Not that I am sure if there no gain doing that but anyway ,
your hands do not get hurt so easily with those sharp edges.
Also washed the block with a pressure washer.

[Purple pit]

I thought I saved a very nice build guide for the 2.8/3.1. It had great tips and tricks. Just can't seem to find it in my favorites. When I do a search all I get is a 404. It was done by Engine Builder magazine.

Here is a very basic article done by them that is on topic:

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2014/03/weighing-balancing-work/

You may be able to contact them and get some tips for what you are doing.

[veekuusi]

I thought I saved a very nice build guide for the 2.8/3.1. It had great tips and tricks. Just can't seem to find it in my favorites. When I do a search all I get is a 404. It was done by Engine Builder magazine.

Here is a very basic article done by them that is on topic:

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2014/03/weighing-balancing-work/

You may be able to contact them and get some tips for what you are doing.

Hey thanks for the link.

"The really tricky part is balancing the reciprocating forces inside a V6 or V8 engine. Unlike rotating forces that spin around an axis of rotation, reciprocating forces are moving back and forth."
Says in the article.

Thats why I had the ATI-damper .
It did not help.But on the contrary,I think it did not worse the situation.
But I still believe, that with the new billet (stronger) internally balanced crank ,
thinks will be better.
The big question will be, what kind of damper would be the best.
I dont think the stock damper will do the job.

There are heavy scuff on #3 main bearing.
Maybe the crank has moved back and forth,
and as well up and down.

[Guest]

The purpose of a damper is not to counteract reciprocating mass imbalance, but to absorb the harmonics created by each cylinder firing.

[ericjon262]

Mr ericjon262 must be psychic or something.
At least he can read my mind.

This saturday morning I was deburring the block.
Not that I am sure if there no gain doing that but anyway ,
your hands do not get hurt so easily with those sharp edges.
Also washed the block with a pressure washer.

Cracks normally form near sharp corners, so by removing the corners, you theoretically increase the strength of the block, or at least it's crack resistance. oil will also drain better without the burrs there.