roller lifters with 2.8

[veekuusi]

Finally got the dry sump pump the day before yesterday.
Of course it hit both the rack and engine bracket.
I did not leave enough space for it.
I had to do the engine bracket all over again.

But now it is somewhere close to the final position.

[3400-95-Modified]

You don't have to but I've heard a few people say to run the oil filter before your oil cooler rather than running dirty oil through the cooler since it will cause premature wear on the inside and they aren't cheap. That's how the dry sump system is setup on the circle track modified I work on. It scavenges from the tank, to the pump, then out from the pump to the filter then the cooler then the engine. That's how a lot of guys run it in that division. Not saying its right or wrong just what we do.

[veekuusi]

You don't have to but I've heard a few people say to run the oil filter before your oil cooler rather than running dirty oil through the cooler since it will cause premature wear on the inside and they aren't cheap. That's how the dry sump system is setup on the circle track modified I work on. It scavenges from the tank, to the pump, then out from the pump to the filter then the cooler then the engine. That's how a lot of guys run it in that division. Not saying its right or wrong just what we do.

Okay, thanks for info.

I bought today the belt.
Luckily it did not cost much and I didn't have to wait it for weeks.

"Big boys" recommended me to use AN 16 hose to scavence oil hose from pump to the tank.
Because there is so much air bubbles in the oil.
The pump scavenges mostly air and only little oil from engine sump.
Rest of the hoses are AN 12.

[3400-95-Modified]

When you take a look at the inlet and outlet hole sizes on the oil filter adapter I bet you'll scratch your head just like I did when the experts also recommended 12an line for that... I couldn't make sense of it since the filter holes are SO small, but we still run the same thing, we just have 12an for the tank return not 16 like suggested for you. The outlet on the pump is 12 and the tank inlet is 12 so going to 16 we would have to adapt down to a smaller size on both ends so it didn't make sense to bother. I actually think our pan and valley scavenge lines are only 10 but I could be wrong, we have two in the pan and one in the back right corner of the lifter valley.

Also our engine is completely sealed so the pump acts as a vac pump on the bottom end. We don't have a line going from the engine to the oil tank as a breather.

Not sure if you were going to do that or not since that sheet says to, we just have the breather for the tank with a catch can.

[veekuusi]

A few pictures of the pump bracket.
It is not what I would call billet , but 6 mm steel.
Some kind of surface finishing would be nice.
Passivation or what you call it in english.

[veekuusi]

The crankshaft pulley came without a key way.
It was difficult to find here a guy who is able to make one.
The hole is one inch, and the key itself is quite narrow.
Most of the machine shops here have only metric tools for that
kind of operation.

The pump is now in it´s final position.
Only missing is the bolt to the pump drive mandrel to the crankshaft.
It is something like 1/2 inch , but could not find today right lenght one.
Not very good variety of inch bolts in our shops.

Next is to do some hoses.

[NateD4]

If you need bolts. McMasterCarr.com or Allensfasteners (google it) have a great assortment of bolts

[veekuusi]

I bought a wrench set for use with AN style fittings.
It comes handy when doing AN fittings.



And how to make AN fittings.
Angle grinder with 1 mm disc.
Remember to use oil with the fitting.







I use both XRP and Goodridge AN fittings.
Do not know which is the best.



Some progress has been made in garage.





The water outlets from the heads are not in the highest point of a head.
That is why some air may build up in heads.
I made connections to both heads that leads to expansion tank.
I have a pair of 3100 heads which has temperature sending unit same location.
But my 3400 heads have not , but I drilled a 1/8 NPT thread to that same place.





And for last , animal picture of this week.
Taken today in my garage.
We have had a pretty good squirrel year this year.

[pocket-rocket]

Nice progress, hope we get to see it in action soon.

Maybe the squirrel could be your mascot, lol.

[veekuusi]

Dry sump oil pump hoses are ready.
Engine has been rotated with starter motor, and certainly oil
goes from tank to the engine.
And yes, there is a pump somewhere under the hoses.






Next step is this weeks friday , when a friend of mine comes to see me,
and we'll get the last electricity wires sorted out.He is an electricity expert.
I mean the camshaft hall sensor and get the ignition settings ready in the computer.



In stock 60 degree V6 engines you do not have to bother the valve lash adjustment.
But in my case with the mechanical lifters you do.
I find it easy to adjust them with this tool.



So in this coming weekend it is time to say:
"gentlemen, start your engines".

[pocket-rocket]

So in this coming weekend it is time to say:
"gentlemen, start your engines".

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

Good deal

We need a clapping smiley...

[Superdave]

Please get some good video of the startup, i bet it's going to sound like a beast!

[ericjon262]

So in this coming weekend it is time to say:
"gentlemen, start your engines".

you need to put a big dot of RTV on the head wear the intake meets on the valve cover rail so it will actually seal up.

[3400-95-Modified]

I WANT that tool! Would really come in handy when doing the valves on the roundy round Modified.

[unchained01]

http://compare.ebay.com/like/370658833676?_lwgsi=y&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

There ya go Jon 53 bucks from comp cams
I have had one for years and used it on late model unlimited dirt track engines
And http://compare.ebay.com/like/3904764...Types&var=sbar the same from summit