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roller lifters with 2.8
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Might I recommend creating a new thread for the new build? Feel free to link this one at the beginning of the new, but with as long as this one is getting, I feel it would be better to split the 2 builds up.
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Originally posted by veekuusi View PostMr ericjon262 must be psychic or something.
At least he can read my mind.
This saturday morning I was deburring the block.
Not that I am sure if there no gain doing that but anyway ,
your hands do not get hurt so easily with those sharp edges.
Also washed the block with a pressure washer.Last edited by ericjon262; 06-29-2014, 07:43 PM.
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Guest repliedThe purpose of a damper is not to counteract reciprocating mass imbalance, but to absorb the harmonics created by each cylinder firing.
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Originally posted by Purple pit View PostI thought I saved a very nice build guide for the 2.8/3.1. It had great tips and tricks. Just can't seem to find it in my favorites. When I do a search all I get is a 404. It was done by Engine Builder magazine.
Here is a very basic article done by them that is on topic:
Engine Balancing: Achieve smooth performance & reliability. Learn the importance & tips for balancing various engine types.
You may be able to contact them and get some tips for what you are doing.
"The really tricky part is balancing the reciprocating forces inside a V6 or V8 engine. Unlike rotating forces that spin around an axis of rotation, reciprocating forces are moving back and forth."
Says in the article.
Thats why I had the ATI-damper .
It did not help.But on the contrary,I think it did not worse the situation.
But I still believe, that with the new billet (stronger) internally balanced crank ,
thinks will be better.
The big question will be, what kind of damper would be the best.
I dont think the stock damper will do the job.
There are heavy scuff on #3 main bearing.
Maybe the crank has moved back and forth,
and as well up and down.
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I thought I saved a very nice build guide for the 2.8/3.1. It had great tips and tricks. Just can't seem to find it in my favorites. When I do a search all I get is a 404. It was done by Engine Builder magazine.
Here is a very basic article done by them that is on topic:
Engine Balancing: Achieve smooth performance & reliability. Learn the importance & tips for balancing various engine types.
You may be able to contact them and get some tips for what you are doing.
Leave a comment:
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Originally posted by ericjon262 View Postif this was my build, I would go over the block with a carbide burr and de-burr the block, clean up all the casting flash, and maybe look into cryo treatment.
At least he can read my mind.
This saturday morning I was deburring the block.
Not that I am sure if there no gain doing that but anyway ,
your hands do not get hurt so easily with those sharp edges.
Also washed the block with a pressure washer.
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Originally posted by veekuusi View PostThe heads are definately gone, I need new ones.
New 3400 heads as were the old ones.
But we do the head job here,Ben has race ready heads in his shop,
but we think we can save some money by doing the job here.
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if this was my build, I would go over the block with a carbide burr and de-burr the block, clean up all the casting flash, and maybe look into cryo treatment.
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Originally posted by The_Raven View PostShouldn't have to, but would be a good idea to check it. That being said, I'm not sure the problems with the last crank weren't entirely not caused by the crank balancing...
It's the over stress point that starts the nag. Where is it? 7k, 7.5K,7.7k or 8K? Just the thought of each time I hit "XXXX" rpm(or near it) that is one step closer to the breaking point. That kind of thing keeps me from building an engine for high RPM, oh and money too.
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It's looking good from here on out for any prototype/test machinery fabrication work. If you do happen to alter something, it might be beneficial to remove any burrs & hot tank the part(s) prior to installation. Most recently had a project land in my hands that wanted some work done. The supporting items to what I was working on had some apprentice weld work laid down which sent my mind into a cautionary state. Took a couple pokes at it with and sure enough, some of it dislodged. That debris could have caused a bad situation for many.
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Originally posted by Purple pit View PostSo, is the "so on" 3400 heads?
Don't you have to rebalance after you stick a damper on an IB crank?
New 3400 heads as were the old ones.
But we do the head job here,Ben has race ready heads in his shop,
but we think we can save some money by doing the job here.
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by Purple pit View PostDon't you have to rebalance after you stick a damper on an IB crank?
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So, is the "so on" 3400 heads?
Don't you have to rebalance after you stick a damper on an IB crank?
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One billet crankshaft for 2.8 V6 has been ordered from Crower.
It is going to be an internal balance crank.
$3300.
And Ben from WOT TECH helps me with the other parts.
2 new Diamond pistons, 2 Scat connecting rods, bearings ,gaskets,Manley valves and so on.....
And I really hope the engine stays alive longer this time.
Special attention have to be taken to the balance and other things.
I mean bearing clearance , what kind of damper would be the best or something.
"New" block (3100) out of a 1996 Chevrolet Lumina is in my garage ,
it is going to machine shop to "further treatment".
There is some pictures of the new block (remowing cam bearings) :
Last edited by veekuusi; 06-27-2014, 12:08 PM.
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Nice! The Swann is $99 when on woot.com. We found the 1080p is a little shaky due to the 60fps, but really nice at 720p. Swann comes with mounts, water-proof case, few sticky mounts, remote and lcd rear screen attachment.
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