If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
proceed to the Forums area and select the forum that you want to visit.
"It's your car. Do with it what you wish, but as you enter this unknown world you will need to invent the wheel all over again. For the adventurous and those that are backyard mechanics who have nothing but time you might like this. Most have plenty of frustrating moments and the process usually takes significantly longer then what anyone could imagine. The end result of this conversion is completely up to you." - Jon McCullough of BMCautos.com
I was half way through your thread... I had a problem with my main studs. If you want a better part number that will have a better fit let me know its slightly shorter and is fully threaded. After talking to ARP they recommend not stacking washers as it acts as a bearing and reduces clamping load so they advised against it.
I was half way through your thread... I had a problem with my main studs. If you want a better part number that will have a better fit let me know its slightly shorter and is fully threaded. After talking to ARP they recommend not stacking washers as it acts as a bearing and reduces clamping load so they advised against it.
-Jarek
I'd be interested in those PN's since I was not too keen on stacking washers either hence why I still have factory main bolts.
Which bottom end is on this engine? Is it a 2.8 style or 3400 style? With or without the windage tray? If you want custom studs I might either have a set or get a set made.
I will get a pic for clearance.. Im currently building another motor for my other car I will stop by the machine shop so I can grab a pic tonight.. Im running no windage tray or scrapper.
Radical Revs Race Mods- RRRM
Owner and Founder -Jarek
Those studs are not long enough for a windage tray. I wonder what ARP think of running a crank scraper, since that is a sheet of metal between the nut and the main. Would that act as a bearing as well with a washer on top of the crank scraper? For racing, a windage tray and crank scraper should be considered necessary.
my own personal belief I won use a crank scraper the windage tray I like but not using for this motor on my daily. Ben I would drop a line to ARP and ask them. What if you used a thinner nut on the stud? I forgot to bring my studs with me to get a pic today Ill probably go tomorrow.
Radical Revs Race Mods- RRRM
Owner and Founder -Jarek
It really depends on the steel used for the windage tray and the heat treat it has. If it is a good quality steel and is thick enough you can load it up with preload and it'll be fine. If its a poor quality and hardness steel it'll deform and smash as cyclic loads are applied and the bolts will loosen as the washer smashes out.
Here is a set I had made that addresses this issue and allows use of the stock 3900 windage tray. These studs let me use the stock fastening method for the windage tray. No drilling required.
Those studs are not long enough for a windage tray. I wonder what ARP think of running a crank scraper, since that is a sheet of metal between the nut and the main. Would that act as a bearing as well with a washer on top of the crank scraper? For racing, a windage tray and crank scraper should be considered necessary.
Once I started to think about it I was wondering that, I guess that answers my question about using those.
I'm quoting Ben, so yes I'm referring to the ARP studs that were posted. If they are shorter than what Ben has in his store then they will not work on an application with a crank scraper and windage tray which is what I'm running. But if your not running either then you'll be fine using those.
Comment