roller lifters with 2.8

[34blazer]

Im interested in what the main bearings look like as well as the main webbing. Im also wondering if the engine encountered some knock due to fuel starvation? Seems like all went downhill after the developed an intermittent miss that seemed to occur in the corners.

[veekuusi]

Crower has a 2.8 billet crank for $3300 .
Production time 8-10 weeks.
And they need a sample.

No other crank manufactures has answered yet.

[1988GTU]

Wow! Well its good to know that the chain was not the problem. Don't know if it is possible to get the small displacement that you need, but I would see how much a 3500 crank can be de-stroked. If you can turn it down enough you could use a 3400/3500 block and have a big bore short stroke 2.8...

3500 would be ideal for oil squirters and DRTC should he need that extra safe guard.

[Purple pit]

Sure is easy to find one for a 90 degree.

[3400-95-Modified]

Crower has a 2.8 billet crank for $3300 .
Production time 8-10 weeks.
And they need a sample.

No other crank manufactures has answered yet.

It's great to find one but the crappy part is you don't know what directly caused this crank to break.... If you could figure out that then it would ensure no more related failures in the future but without knowing that you may have something else go on the next setup but the crank survives...

[veekuusi]

It's great to find one but the crappy part is you don't know what directly caused this crank to break.... If you could figure out that then it would ensure no more related failures in the future but without knowing that you may have something else go on the next setup but the crank survives...

Yes, you are right.
Maybe the next pictures can tell something.
Pretty much heat around #2 main cap.
Difficult to say how long a time the incidence has been going on.
At least for one lap in the last race.

[1QUICKHATCH]

Spun main bearing, then it welded together? If you need a stock oem 2.8l crank (back up engine? ) I have one that I can part with. I can get you a 3500 crank if you are interested in going that route, the wreckers have a few around here!

[3400-95-Modified]

I would have to say whatever caused main #2 to blue like that is the only reason why the crank broke where it did...

at least that's my expert opinion... LOL

[34blazer]

thats some major fretting on #2 and #3 mains. oil delivery issue or severe knock, which could explain the engine breaking up in the turns. a $3300 crank is not the fix for that problem, IMO.

[veekuusi]

There has been shaking going on in the bottom,
although the crank was balanced , and there was a ATI damper and so on......
Shaking made the #2 main cap bearings lose and then spin.
The game was over (this is in the video when the first lap is completed,
I can feel the loss of power).
The oil circulation was no longer working.
Plenty of heat built up very rapidly.
#2 cyl connecting rod bearing damaged also due to oil shortage (this is in the
video when 2 RWD Ford Escorts over take me).
The crank snapped because of the heat.

It was a aftermarket Eagle cast iron crankshaft.
External balance shaft.
But it was made to internal balance shaft.
Maybe not a good idea afterward.

But the intention is now to buy a internal balance crank,
a heavy duty one , to cut down shaking.
A cast iron crank is maybe not intended to 8000 rpm.

[Guest]

I just watched the video...

I actually laughed when the Blue Escort drifted around you on the first lap, such a cool shot and could watch it over and over again.

That green car had a great start, holy crap!

It looked like if the engine would have held together you would have been able to move up. You kept reeling in the front cars on that first lap, before the engine started going away.

Awesome job on reacting to the problem and getting out of the racing line quickly and controlled! :thumbsup:

[ForcedFirebird]

Love your attitude. We also had an oil failure and spun a rod bearing while I was driving a 14 hour race, just 2 hours after the green, this is why it's called "racing" and not "winning". Have to take good with the bad.

Do you have any video of the qualifying laps? The engine sounds great!

[veekuusi]

Love your attitude. We also had an oil failure and spun a rod bearing while I was driving a 14 hour race, just 2 hours after the green, this is why it's called "racing" and not "winning". Have to take good with the bad.

Do you have any video of the qualifying laps? The engine sounds great!

No pain, no gain , as they say.

I uploaded a video of qualifying.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0TGiSyl5vuQ&list=UUX30SFBRQv9PiufHKr0sSnw

Sorry again for the quality of that incar video, my camera is too sensitive for car shaking.
It is old and cheap.
You really can not see the pace in the incar video.
Pace was better seen in the outside camera video, top speed in the main straight
was 191 km/h , 119 mph.

[carbon]

That noise you're seeing in the camera video could be caused by RF interference from the alternator or ignition at particular RPMs rather than physical vibration... you could try isolating the power supply if it's not on battery or wrapping everything but the lens in tin foil and tie it to ground to see if that helps. The engine always sounds about the same right about the time it breaks up...

[ForcedFirebird]

I agree, it's radio frequency interference. Happens at similar RPM every time.

That's moving good for such a short straight.

You might want to check out a camera we have been using. Just like GoPro, but much less expensive, called the Swann Freestyle. We have good success with it in the race cars using the 720p quality.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Camcorders-/11724/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=swann+freestyle

Here are some examples.

Daytime,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7z2cFYICu4

and night racing...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HAd1YeFksoI