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Starting my new crate 3.4L w/carb questions

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  • Starting my new crate 3.4L w/carb questions

    1980 MGB restored, 3.4l converted to 390 cfm Holley carb, vacuum advanced dizzy built for this setup, ect.
    Really excited about this. I'm totally a newb to carbs and the 3.4l 60v6 so I really need your help with these few questions.
    I know how to search but didn't find what I was looking for.

    I really appreciate anyones help here, I have pics in the intro forum.

    - timing procedure with the carb and vacuum advance?

    -I have the new GM break in oil additive. 1 bottle is all I though I needed, I'm guessing to just use that on the first start up only and then reg oil after?

    -do I need to run the electric choke carb through a fuse?

    -using a small 7 row oil cooler, about how much oil should I use and what type seems to be the most common?

    -any one have the GM break in procedure on a PDF or something? I can't find mine.

  • #2
    - Timing
    When you start the truck have the vac advance hose disconnected and plugged. Time to 10* BTDC and clamp the distributor down. Then plug the hose in and bring the RPM right to 2000RPM.

    -Oil
    You can use any conventional oil with a bottle of Break in lube, ZDDP Addative or GM EOS. They are all the same. After the half hour cam break in you need to drain the oil. You then need to fill with an oil that contains at least 1200PPM Zinc and 900PPM Phosphorus. Or you can dump in another bottle of ZDDP addative into any conventional oil. Once the rings are broken in after the first 1000miles then you can add any oil conventional or synthetic but it still must contain 1200ppm Zinc and 900PPM Phosphorus. I know Redline Oil contains 1330 ppm zinc and 1200 ppm phosphorus. Plenty of protection for your flat cam and lifters.

    -Electric Choke
    Yea I would a fuse. Never hurts

    -Break In
    Do the initial half hour cam break it at anywhere from 2000 to 3000 rpm. Vary it up and down. Dump the oil and filter and put new stuff in. Drive on the street doing several runs from a slow speed to as fast as you can safely go. Allow the engine to compression brake back down to a slow speed. Start your runs at about 50% throttle angle and work in 10% increments up to full throttle. Once your done that just drive like normal and try to vary the engine RPM a bit when your on the highway. If this means downshifting for a few mins then do it. I don't mean you have to speed up and slow down the whole drive but just give the engine a change of pace every 10 mins or so if your on a long drive. Compression braking is never a bad thing. After that first 1000miles change the oil and filter and your all done.
    1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
    1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
    Because... I am, CANADIAN

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    • #3
      Ok, I looked around and wound up with Shell Rotella 15x40 motor oil. It said the zinc and phosphorus were up to par.
      However is this oil ok to use guys for this setup?

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      • #4
        Intro thread w/ pics of car

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        • #5
          Yes you can use that oil for break in. However I would not run a heavy weight like that after the 2 break in oil changes. If your running the crate then a 5W30 or 10W30 is recommended.
          1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
          1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
          Because... I am, CANADIAN

          Comment

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