clutch

[ericjon262]

I've got a 1985 Fiero, that I'm about to swap a 3500 into, would it be stupid for me to use a stock replacement fiero clutch?

I'm tight on cash, and getting tighter, so the brand new clutch and pressure plate are looking more and more apealing over a $300+ centerforce...

Then engine will be all stock, with the exception of headers and a tune.

[NateD4]

Go with a Clutchnet 6 puck ceramic unit. I love the one in my Fiero. It may not be as perfect, high tech or modern as a centerforce or SPEC (neither of which I fully beleive is as good as their hype). However in my 3.4 Iron head fiero with stock engine I had zero problems with it. It also has a nice but manageable on-off feel. I far prefer that to a street take your good old time to engage clutch. Less clutch wear, less pedal travel and you get used to it. I think I paid around 160 or 180 for the disc. I used a stock pressure plate with it. No problems. Prior to that a stock parts house clutch couldn't even chirp the tires in 1st gear. The Clutch net clutch was much nicer.

In fact I plan on buying a heavy duty version of it for the 3900 going in my Fiero with the F40 6 speed. They will rate one to 490 Ftlbs with a 2500 Lb pressure plate.

I think SPEC has one similar. Not sure about centerforce.

[geoffinbc]

The Centerforce I had for my Trooper was shit. The weights went off Center and chewed up the throw out bearing. So I had to remove it and replace the bearing and after talking to Centerforce I was told to remove the weights. The dual friction disc was actually made by Exedy. So basically I have a regular clutch now which works very well but I wasted my money. I could have saved about $200 buy buying a normal high performance clutch set from Spec or Exedy

[ericjon262]

well, after reading several reviews of the centerforce units, it makes me a little weary of going that route.


Do I have any other real options for a clutch other than Spec and centerforce?

anyone else run a clutchnet clutch?


I notice clutchnet uses a similar part number to the spec unit... it also has the same torque capacity...

makes me wonder...

[hookdonspeed]

im using a spec stage 2+ in my 3500, hoping its enough

[ericjon262]

is yours a stock 3500? that sounds kinda overkill to me, a 2+ is rated at 400 ft lbs...

[hookdonspeed]

its gona be boosted soon enough... but for now its stock.

[NateD4]

Well I've not had any complaints with my clutchnet clutch. It's a simple design.

I do however recommend a 6 puck ceramic with spring hub over any organic or Kevlar material.

The ceramic seems well proven to me. It's a bit more on off but well worth it. Additionally it should last a long time.


Clutchnet clutches are assembled in the US. I was hesitant at first to buy one as I had never heard of them. But at that point none of the name brand units impressed me and I was tired of changing clutches.

[ericjon262]

my thing about clutchnet/spec, is that someone is either
A: making the other's clutch
B: they are one in the same
C: they both buy from another vendor.

There's no way part numbers and specifications magically end up the same, it just doesn't happen.

[ericjon262]

as far as clutch type, I don't want a "race" style clutch, I want something grippy, but NOT on/off.

[NateD4]

I think they buy the hub components from a supplier such as LUK or Sachs and then assemble their friction materials to them.

It could also be that the industry has published list of styles/specs for parts like spline hubs, disc hubs etc... They simply use the part numbers from the book.

I don't think that would deter me. What does bug me is the way the guy from SPEC pushes the new composite clutch material and tells me ceramic is obsolete. Yet I have 50k trouble free miles on my clutch with no indications of problems. And no complaints of slipping on a stock pressure plate. I think I'll stick to the 'old' ceramic stuff and pay a few hundred less for my clutch thank you very much.

[pocket-rocket]

Seeing how the Lima engine in my truck is 98% the same as an SVO Mustang turbo engine, I had plans on turboing it years ago. I looked into clutches and found a Centerforce clutch on ebay with 10k miles on it from a Merkur XR4Ti that I picked up for $75 shipped. I put it in probably about 30k miles ago and haven't had a problem with it yet. I was worried the weights would move around like what BTY had happen because they seemed loose, but mine have been fine. Most of the time it's just daily driving for my truck, but occasionally I have to pull a trailer or a vehicle on my dolly with it and the clutch has held up great. I even pulled an 89 Ford F150 extended cab with a locked drivers rear wheel about 25 feet (I had to work at that one, not realizing the wheel was locked) and the clutch didn't want to slip unless I slipped it with the pedal. It's been a great clutch for me and doesn't really have a whole lot more than stock pedal effort. I dunno, maybe I got lucky on ebay, but I love my clutch.

[geoffinbc]

With the weights off my Centerforce is working like a charm. It holds well and drives really smooth. I off road and tow all the time. But for the price I could have bought the Exact same Exedy friction disc for a couple hundred less.

[Mars]

I would go with a 4 puc.

The 3500 revs high and you want a light disk for quick shifts and to save on synchros.

My next clutch is a 3 puc unsprung.

I have a 4 puc with springs right now and a 250% pressure plate and it holds, but I'd rather have a lighter disk even still. The trans. don't like high revs and a heavy disk, it messes up the synchros when you try to jam high RPM shifts.

[NateD4]

Mars,

Which trans do you have?

I'd not recommend less then 5 puck.