Few questions

[SFK830]

First question i have might be kinda nuoob-ish but how do i raise the idle of my l82 3100?

My car just recently got new gaskets from the block up and still seems to have a like a 3 second starterlag, like it will take a full 5 seconds before the engine will finnaly fire up i was wondering if switching from my current (castrol 10w-30) to a thinner oil might help out a bit. My car also just got brand new plugs and the tempature around here has been in the upper 90's all week.

My last question is about weather removing the insualation in the hood of the car would be more benifical or worse for the car, to keep a cooler operating temp and allow colder air in the intake ect.

Car was bought for 100 dollers at 135k, And soon should be rolling over 160k with less than 200 dollars in it

[95cutlassproject]

As far as the insulatation under the hood goes I removed mine when my stuipd brother go oil all over it (long story) and ruined it, and I didnt notice any differnce other then hearing the engine much clearer. I happen to also be running castrol 10w-30 with no idle issues at all. I if i remeber your car is 98 cutlass, you would need a tuning program to change the idle hp tuner is the only one I can remeber at the moment I know there is one more. Though I would proably be looking for other proablems other then changing to idle. You gave new plugs, are the wires still the old ones. I don't think it takes that long for a car to start, even cold winter morning in wisconin it maybe takes 2 seconds for my cutlass to be a purring away.

[SFK830]

The plugs are brand new (i did hear however bosch plugs should be avoided after installing these and they are bosch platnums) but my plug wires are less than a year old aswell. I suppose i culd be a coil pack going bad that takes my startup forever, sometimes at a stop i can feel kinda what feels like detonation like one cylender will sort of miss and caus a jerking type feeling even with breaks applyd. My car runs great and tears up hondas all day but i feel like it still has a few bugs.

SO there is no screw ajustment anywhere near the iac that will allow me to manuelly change idle? See my other car is a 300zx and has a manul idle ajustment.

it has an intake and custom catless exaust i was hoping once i reuilt the top end that would sort the issue out but it still has a long starup time.

Lastly sometimes my ABS light comes on wen i start it up, not everytime but about every other or so, i just replaced my front brake pads does this mean i need to get new rear brakes or does it mean i have a short or something cause my abs system to fail. No check engine light btw .

[pocket-rocket]

The plugs are brand new (i did hear however bosch plugs should be avoided after installing these and they are bosch platnums)

sometimes at a stop i can feel kinda what feels like detonation like one cylender will sort of miss and caus a jerking type feeling even with breaks applyd.

You probably have a miss from the Bosch Platinums. They could also be causing your starting issue. I would pick up some Delcos or NGKs if it were my car.

SO there is no screw ajustment anywhere near the iac that will allow me to manuelly change idle?

There is a screw by it, but it's not for the IAC. It's for the throttle stop. If you try to adjust it to raise the idle, the IAC is just going to close off more and lower the idle back down.

Lastly sometimes my ABS light comes on wen i start it up, not everytime but about every other or so

Since it's on startup and not when you start moving I would have to guess it's a voltage issue. Has the starter been turning slower lately? Have you had your charging system checked recently? ABS systems are picky when it comes to lower than normal voltage.

[SFK830]

When the car sat it did let the battery die and we only had it sitting for maby 3 months if even that. We put a brand new starter on this car maybe 2 months after getting it as the old one clunked out. I havnt ever checked the drum brakes and weve never replaced them so im sure there pretty bad unless they are made to outlast disc brakes 2 times over. <- thus my origonal concern as to weather or not rear brake wear will cause my abs light to come on

I will see what kind of voltage my battery is pushing since we never did give it a full charge after letting it sit we ust jumped it and let the alternator do the rest. That being said i belive my alternator is still pretty strong. Btw not sure if you ever heard but the plug non fouler on my secondary o2 sensor with the then metel jacket thats on it removed worked great and now i can enjoy a cat-less exaust with out throwing a code.

[pocket-rocket]

Yeah, I've heard of the non-fouler trick.

Running a car on a dead battery with a good alt would probably trip the ABS light for low system voltage. I wouldn't look into the ABS light issue until the car is back on the road with a well charged battery.

Rear brakes (in general, not just drums) do outlast fronts, as a matter of fact. Think of it this way. When you have a bottle of water in your hand while driving and stop, which way does the water go? The weight shift of the car goes the same way, forward (think momentum, inertia, ect.). Because of this, your front brakes are stronger than the rears and do most of the stopping. IIRC, the general consensus was front brakes provide about 70% of your stopping power. So in short, yes, your rears will last longer than the fronts, as long as everything is in correct mechanical working order.

[Azrael]

Using the alternator to charge a battery will shorten the alt's lifespan so use a battery charger where possible. A fully charged battery should show close to 12.6v.

The ABS sensors for drum brakes are usually integral to the wheelbearing. You can try disconnecting the sensor connectors and check for corrosion or nicked wires.