crank scrapper fit?

[1988GTU]

I wouldn't use that part. The purpose of it is now out the window, I would see about a refund/return of that one or just going without it.

[AaronGTR]

Little late to return it now that it's been customized. lol

I think everything should be ok now. The spots where it's closest, I still have 1.5-2mm clearance. And there's 2-3mm everywhere else so I wouldn't think I'd need to worry about it being too close and contacting anything right? If it's not going to hurt anything I'd rather not tear things apart to take it off, and it may actually still be helping and make some hp if it's true what they say about it disturbing the air flow of the windage cloud to knock oil out of suspension and reduce parasitic drag. I've already got the caps torqued down and the oil pump and baffle installed. Got the front cover on and getting ready to install the oil pan.

[1988GTU]

Little late to return it now that it's been customized. lol

if it's true what they say about it disturbing the air flow of the windage cloud to knock oil out of suspension and reduce parasitic drag. I've already got the caps torqued down and the oil pump and baffle installed. Got the front cover on and getting ready to install the oil pan.

If each piece is a cookie cutter of the latest design, then they all should have the flaws making it obvious that a recall/return for those that purchased the part be made an option for customer satisfaction. The scraper can only give the true results if it is designed properly for that engine and purpose, but by manipulating the design to make it useable negates those possible benefits.

[Kevin Johnson]

Hi,

I would be happy to make replacement scrapers. Just tell me how much you would like the cutouts moved in and I will need a shipping address. I will even do it on an individual basis if you like. If there is some consensus that would be nice.

Kind regards,

Kevin

[Kevin Johnson]

If each piece is a cookie cutter of the latest design, then they all should have the flaws making it obvious that a recall/return for those that purchased the part be made an option for customer satisfaction. The scraper can only give the true results if it is designed properly for that engine and purpose, but by manipulating the design to make it useable negates those possible benefits.

I try to go way out of my way to correct fitment issues. What I cannot do is make a generic product that will fit every variation of rod and crank. I am happy to do that on an individual basis but normally I have to charge for that time. In this situation I will do individual adjustments. I assure you that the time consumed exceeds the cost of the scraper.

[Kevin Johnson]

Okay, I looked at my files and the original design is from about eight or nine years ago. The size of the hole drilled is smaller now.

In the pictures below, the flat portion of the rod that approaches the scraper is called a balance pad. Notice that they are finished to different heights by the factory (or a shop) -- you can see the dramatically different heights in the pictures below if you look carefully. I can make a pattern where you are guaranteed to need to do some grinding but then there would be different sorts of complaints. I do not know if it is the case here but often rods have consistent big end to small end distances (rod "length") but the relative location of the borings in the casting or forging is inconsistent.

With respect to the counterweights, many engines have counterweights that are eccentric. I do not remember if that is the case with this engine. That means that the scraper only comes close for a few degrees of rotation.

The OEM scraper of the same design as here, used in the Dodge Viper V10, comes no closer than 3mm to the rotating assembly. In the SCCA, with respect to the Zetec engine, anything coming closer than 12mm to the rotating assembly is considered a scraper. There is a good explanation on my website of how a scraper works at high rpm. Ben may want to copy that here. At high rpms the operation has nothing to do with physically scraping oil off the rotating assembly but rather disrupting the pressure differential that results from what is called the tealeaf paradox. Very little oil will cling to an assembly when the surface is under 3000 Gs of centripetal acceleration (roughly 6000 rpm in a SBC).

Got the pistons/rods all installed last night and took more pics. Here was how it sat "as is".



The only rod that was actually close to where it should be was #2 (as seen below). The rest where up to 6mm away.



Heck of a gap here.



What I did was leave the hole by the front of the engine alone, and took about 2mm out of the back of the middle two holes and the rear one by the oil pump, so that I could rotate the whole thing in a little on that side. I did end up having to take a little bit of metal off by the #2 and #3 rods then because they were a little too close, but the rest of them are closer now. Some of them still have up to 4mm clearance, but the rest are around 2mm. Much more acceptable IMO.

[SappySE107]

http://crank-scrapers.com/What%20is%20a%20crank-scraper.html

That link? I think if the bolt holes are a little bigger that will help. I ovalled mine to allow me to move the scraper closer to the middle, and then ground the DIS wheel piece down as it was the only one touching for quite a while. I ended up with about 1-2 mm clearance in most locations doing it this way, so the overall design is damn close as it is. I agree that it is far better to be a little further away than to have to grind a lot of areas for clearance. If they want it to be perfect, the teflon scraper will allow for the closest possible scraper.

[1988GTU]

I try to go way out of my way to correct fitment issues. What I cannot do is make a generic product that will fit every variation of rod and crank. I am happy to do that on an individual basis but normally I have to charge for that time. In this situation I will do individual adjustments. I assure you that the time consumed exceeds the cost of the scraper.

That's supportive, and good business etiquette.

This is what made me believe you mass produced the part:

They had been using a welded piece because the material was too thin, but they redesigned them. The last batch were all the same so I know i have 2 other customers with this design right now. The scraper works on the rotating assembly but is called a crank scraper. It should come close to the rods as they swing around.

[Kevin Johnson]

http://crank-scrapers.com/What%20is%...k-scraper.html

That link? I think if the bolt holes are a little bigger that will help. I ovalled mine to allow me to move the scraper closer to the middle, and then ground the DIS wheel piece down as it was the only one touching for quite a while. I ended up with about 1-2 mm clearance in most locations doing it this way, so the overall design is damn close as it is. I agree that it is far better to be a little further away than to have to grind a lot of areas for clearance. If they want it to be perfect, the teflon scraper will allow for the closest possible scraper.

Hi Ben,

Yes, that is the link. I will drill the holes to 1/2" (~12.5mm) and adjust the center tang lengths to allow it to shift in more easily.

[SappySE107]

Thanks! When the 3400 is put on the stand I will test fit one and let you know the difference.

[3400-95-Modified]

I may want to buy the new version of this if and when I have my motor out again. I have the old welded version as you stated above.

[AaronGTR]

Yes, I knew about the scrappers purpose with disrupting oil suspension more than actual scrapping (since I didn't get the teflon version). I just didn't know how close it needed to be to have the most effect. Since the directions said to keep it "at least" 1mm away or more, I figured the 4-6mm I was seeing was too much. It's ok though, I got it to within the distance I wanted while still far enough away that I considered it safe, and it should still be effective. And it didn't take much modification. I appreciate the offer for a new one, but really this one is fine, and it's installed and in the car and I'm definitely not taking the engine back out to replace it if you know what I mean.

If we can modify the basic design slightly and/or people understand that they have the option of adjusting the fit themselves, then I think that would be sufficient. I'm all for helping improve parts and helping the community. I think if there was just a little more metal added behind the two outside holes so that all of them could be opened up a little or made oblong perhaps, then that would probably do it because mine had no play at all upon the initial installation.