Anyone know anything about it? New bores in my block are perfect. .04" oversize, and I have matching pistons and .04" oversize rings as well.
Stock specs for ring gap are .006"-.014" for the top ring, which seem on the tight side to me. It is a thinner ring but they still need to leave room for thermal expansion. General rule is .004" for every 1" of bore diameter, and 3.66" would give me .01464" ring gap, but they also say go by whatever the manual says. Problem is the rings I got... both the top and second rings are right at .018" in the bore, with no filing done yet. So the top rings are already .004" OVER the requirement! The spec for the second ring is .0197-.028", so I can file the rings and still be on the tight end of that spec and be fine. Same with the oil rings. They say.0098-.05" gap (which is a HUGE tolerance IMO), and mine are at .035" so I probably won't even touch them.
I'm really just worried about that top ring. I don't know if .004" over is acceptable or if that's going to make me lose some compression and power. If so, I don't know what I can do about it. They don't sell oem style rings larger than .04 oversize. If I could get some .06" oversize I could then file them down to spec. I can only get that size for aftermarket pistons though. No idea if they'd be the right size for my ring grooves. Any ideas? Anyone know where I can get some .06" oversize tops rings that are the right thickness etc to work with oem/sealed power pistons?
I was also doing some measuring getting ready to put the crank back in. Keep in mind I'm not using a super expensive accurate gauge, but it is a dial caliper gauge and should be fairly accurate. Not sure how much affect the heat and humidity here right now might affect measurements as well. My main bearing bores are at 2.842-2.845" and spec is 2.8407-2.8412, so it's a few thousandths on the loose side, but the caps weren't fully torqued so they might get a tiny bit tighter. The crank main journals were 2.634 on avg and spec is 2.6473-2.6483". Rod journals are 1.992 and spec is 1.9987-1.9994. Rod bearing bores are 2.128-2.132 and spec is 2.124-2.125.
So basically tolerances are all on the loose side, but mostly by about one hundredth to a few thousandths. On one hand I'm thinking that's good and I shouldn't have to worry about any spun bearings, and maybe it will just spin nice and freely and make good power. On the other hand I'm worried it may be too loose. I did buy a new oil pump, and I shimmed the bypass spring about 1/8" to raise the peak allowed pressure a bit, so hopefully I'll have enough oil pressure/flow to deal with the loose tolerance. Maybe it would be a good idea to run a thicker oil though? Like 10w30 or 10w40?
__________________
Stock specs for ring gap are .006"-.014" for the top ring, which seem on the tight side to me. It is a thinner ring but they still need to leave room for thermal expansion. General rule is .004" for every 1" of bore diameter, and 3.66" would give me .01464" ring gap, but they also say go by whatever the manual says. Problem is the rings I got... both the top and second rings are right at .018" in the bore, with no filing done yet. So the top rings are already .004" OVER the requirement! The spec for the second ring is .0197-.028", so I can file the rings and still be on the tight end of that spec and be fine. Same with the oil rings. They say.0098-.05" gap (which is a HUGE tolerance IMO), and mine are at .035" so I probably won't even touch them.
I'm really just worried about that top ring. I don't know if .004" over is acceptable or if that's going to make me lose some compression and power. If so, I don't know what I can do about it. They don't sell oem style rings larger than .04 oversize. If I could get some .06" oversize I could then file them down to spec. I can only get that size for aftermarket pistons though. No idea if they'd be the right size for my ring grooves. Any ideas? Anyone know where I can get some .06" oversize tops rings that are the right thickness etc to work with oem/sealed power pistons?
I was also doing some measuring getting ready to put the crank back in. Keep in mind I'm not using a super expensive accurate gauge, but it is a dial caliper gauge and should be fairly accurate. Not sure how much affect the heat and humidity here right now might affect measurements as well. My main bearing bores are at 2.842-2.845" and spec is 2.8407-2.8412, so it's a few thousandths on the loose side, but the caps weren't fully torqued so they might get a tiny bit tighter. The crank main journals were 2.634 on avg and spec is 2.6473-2.6483". Rod journals are 1.992 and spec is 1.9987-1.9994. Rod bearing bores are 2.128-2.132 and spec is 2.124-2.125.
So basically tolerances are all on the loose side, but mostly by about one hundredth to a few thousandths. On one hand I'm thinking that's good and I shouldn't have to worry about any spun bearings, and maybe it will just spin nice and freely and make good power. On the other hand I'm worried it may be too loose. I did buy a new oil pump, and I shimmed the bypass spring about 1/8" to raise the peak allowed pressure a bit, so hopefully I'll have enough oil pressure/flow to deal with the loose tolerance. Maybe it would be a good idea to run a thicker oil though? Like 10w30 or 10w40?
__________________
Comment