it had about 5 mintues of run time, and i used plenty of lube, and bleed the oil system with a drill before start up. i popped a main cap to find that they were in good shape so who knows, it is after all the teflon coating on the bearings worn off
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3400 N/A Monte Build Thread
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Those rod bearings were teflon coated? And thats only 5 min of run time? Holy crap, that's not good. Something doesn't seem right there.
This is what I pulled out of a 40k mile motor... Nitrous abused and everything.
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3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS
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i had .003 clearance on all the rod bearings, maybe some debri got on there as i put the motor together outside, maybe i should run some 400 grit over the journals, your picture is clearly the cap bearings, my damaged ones were the rod bearings, force sideLast edited by bob442; 11-07-2011, 07:26 PM.
Its runs!!!>>>Aint No 60* Sound Like Mehttp://youtu.be/YKEmNwa141U
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If you ever have a rough spot on a crank you want to just touch it with 1500 or 2000 grit, but I wouldn't use it to try and smooth out the whole journal, I'm simply referring to a small scratch or something. I also wouldn't do that to a performance build, I would bring the crank somewhere to be done right.
I'll get a pic of the other side but IIRC both sides of the bearings were that good.
Also building a motor outside is never a good idea... I worry enough in my garage with getting crap in it.
Got Lope?
3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS
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Originally posted by 3400-95-Modified View PostIf you ever have a rough spot on a crank you want to just touch it with 1500 or 2000 grit, but I wouldn't use it to try and smooth out the whole journal, I'm simply referring to a small scratch or something. I also wouldn't do that to a performance build, I would bring the crank somewhere to be done right.
I'll get a pic of the other side but IIRC both sides of the bearings were that good.
Also building a motor outside is never a good idea... I worry enough in my garage with getting crap in it.1996 Grand Prix | 3100v6 L82 | T04E-50 Turbo | Getrag 282 w/ EP LSD | SPEC-3 Clutch
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Pretty much any old machine shop will do if they know what they are doing. I had a guy at work who has the right lathe do it for me, all he did was the TCE mod.
Got Lope?
3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS
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thing is i was suppous to have had the journals cleaned up, and they did appear to have been.
Its runs!!!>>>Aint No 60* Sound Like Mehttp://youtu.be/YKEmNwa141U
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So not any update really but a follow up, i'm putting the motor back together in my parents garage thats heated and clean this christmas. Its odviously to cold to be doing in my POS garage when its -20 outside. i plan to stay up through the night and get it all done, then i can have a nice long sleep
Its runs!!!>>>Aint No 60* Sound Like Mehttp://youtu.be/YKEmNwa141U
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lol i love the Canadian Accent in the vid "Ooooooh My gawd" . Im originally from North Dakota just as funny. Sounds good tho (the car).Last edited by RedZMonte; 12-26-2011, 10:51 PM.Shane "RedZMonte"
2004 Corvette Z06 Commemorative Edition -VIRGIN
1995 Monte Carlo Z34 14.38@101mph, 331hp/355tq
-Turbonetics T04E Super 60 Turbo, 2.5" Borla Catback, OBDII, 42.5# Injectors
2004 Subaru WRX STI -Lightly Modded (SOLD)
1994 Lumina Z34 -VIRGIN (SOLD)
1992 Lumina Z34-VIRGIN (RIP)
1992 L67 Lumina Z34 (SOLD)
1990 Turbo Grand Prix (SOLD)
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So it took me a long while to solve my plumbing issues that i created for myself, one was plumbing my crank case canister neatly and properly, the other was the heater hose. These look like i got all the parts from Lowes, but trust me, it took alot of hunting and modifying.
This is high heat, high pressure silicon hose, i didnt think to use this stuff, i was stuck at thinking to use Stainless braided lines, but plugging stainless onto 5/8' alumunum heater core line is not so easy. the fitting is actually for a 3/4 hose, but it streched over.
this was the really hard part. in total it ran me around 150$ for everything seen aside the valve cover. hunting down 3/8, 1/2, and 3/4" NPT pipe taps for one time use is not easy, neither was all the fittings. The stainless lines are for a kitchen sink, the 90* was drilled and tapped for 3/8" NPT, and the SS line was shortened and had a new fitting (again hard to find) pressed on.
If*** someone happened to be interested in this setup i could put it together, and get valve covers tapped (or yours sent out) all the fittings modified, canister and filter for around $160-180
Its runs!!!>>>Aint No 60* Sound Like Mehttp://youtu.be/YKEmNwa141U
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I have a CAI, my headers would melt the factory plastic, and I don't want oil and moister dumping into my nicely ported top end. This way it stays clean, I also have no egr.
Its runs!!!>>>Aint No 60* Sound Like Mehttp://youtu.be/YKEmNwa141U
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