so can i simply put a wide band 02 sensor in to replace my narrow band o2 sensor thats in the car? and will the ECM read those readings or not a chance?
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well thanks for clearing that up Ben, now that i know for sure that i should probably get a wide band, as i read in a article that i was able to find, that, they are nessisary for F/I applications and 11.5-13.5 CR. other wise the narrow band would work. unless you feel farly confident that i can get away with just the narrow band.
In another question, a have a faint memory of an article that i read in a magazine pertaining to having a vaccum source connected to a crank case vent. now this is on every 60*v~being the valve cover to plenum line. The reason this becomes a question for me is because i have to change/modify the rear tube that goes to the valve cover due to the headers, so simply i can tap for a brass fitting, but i'm wondering if i should just plumb both vents together to a small valve cover filter, or air intake tube, and plug the 1/2" hole behind the TB Or re-route everything to a stock matter.
I just cant remember if having the vent hooked up to a direct vaccum was benifical or not. i also remember there being a canister to collect all the moister, but its one of those things that have now become "a little bit of knownledge is a dangerous thing" i'm going to try to look up that article tonight.
Heres my LX5 TB and a custom bracket idea that finally works properly with the stock cables, and linkage.
which works alot better than this idea:
any questions feel free to ask
and here is final header fitment, and boy do they fit great! and they are pretty easy to install and remove, takes about 30 seconds, not including undoing the 2 dog bone mounts and fuel lines that would be in the way.
gonna throw in a heat sheild here so the paint doesnt bake
Last edited by bob442; 08-23-2011, 11:14 PM.
Its runs!!!>>>Aint No 60* Sound Like Mehttp://youtu.be/YKEmNwa141U
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So i got my headers in for the 2nd last fit and finish, so i'm starting to turn my attention towards re-routing all the lines that are not in the way of the new headers, simply enough for the fuel in line i grabbed a fuel in line from a 96 grand am without the fuel bowl, cut off the rubber line and used a flange tool to make the GM fuel line quick connect, you can see it running above the TB rather nicely:
so now that the fuel in line is taken care of, my return line is going to be a pita to run with the line running straight down, how ever i went to try and unbolt the basterd and totally munched my pressure regulator. So my question is could i use the pressure regulator from a 99 style 3100? they "look" the same. it would save me the trouble from going to the wrecker
Its runs!!!>>>Aint No 60* Sound Like Mehttp://youtu.be/YKEmNwa141U
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mad props man! looking forward to seeing more, i'm starting mine own 3400 build actually, let us know for sure what you see for numbers!
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Originally posted by pocket-rocket View Post
Would be awesome if we could get a 60v6 to sound like that. Get your car running so we can here it. Then I want to see what kind of numbers you get from it. Great work so far!
Plan on doing a 3400 build of my own, and will probably be building headers as well. So depending on how yours sound, I might have to imitate your design. What are you going to use to seal up the slip joints where the headers merge?Last edited by el_roy1985; 09-05-2011, 06:01 PM.1996 Beretta, 3400/5 speed, internet Tune, FFP UDP, Billet/poly mounts, ported intake manifolds, WAI, 2.5" mandrel exhaust, Borla ProXS, Intrax, KYB, poly front end kid, welded a-arms, strut, shock and sub-frame braces.
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Originally posted by el_roy1985 View PostThat is a vauxhall engine...
Would be awesome if we could get a 60v6 to sound like that. Get your car running so we can here it. Then I want to see what kind of numbers you get from it. Great work so far!
Plan on doing a 3400 build of my own, and will probably be building headers as well. So depending on how yours sound, I might have to imitate your design. What are you going to use to seal up the slip joints where the headers merge?
sealing it up i just plan to use some anti sieze, 2 or 4 slots cut on the slip joints and hydrolic hose band claps.
Thanks guys for the props. i'm working on all of the re-routing of lines that the headers conflict with. That and worrying about a small scratch on the deck of the block that was there on assembally, after a thread on here it just makes me want to take my motor all apart and re-assemble it. I kind of rushed, but i dont think i'l get to tuning this year so i probably will split the motor apart again. All of this fuss and agony to make this work and having to modify so many lines to make the headers work, i dont want a hair line on the deck lead to a coolant leak and possibly hydrolocking this thing. it sucks to think about, but its reality.
I'm told i wont be able to modify all the tables that i need to with HP tuners, so i'm waiting for a secret local tuner who is having heath issues to get well and work with me on the tuning aspect.
what i have to work on next is building a down pipe in my driveway, running the valve cover vent lines to a breather tank, and making my CAI. it all takes time when you spend 85% of your time fixing everyone else's cars to suppourt your lifestyle. Cars/Wife/House. My basement reno is really kicking my ass too. If i get all the nit bits done to the car by saturday i'll probably pull the motor sunday and get my shit straight.
Bob
Its runs!!!>>>Aint No 60* Sound Like Mehttp://youtu.be/YKEmNwa141U
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Originally posted by el_roy1985 View PostThat is a vauxhall engine...
-60v6's 2nd Jon M.
91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
Originally posted by Jay LenoTires are cheap clutches...
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I'm pretty glad I'm wrong with that one. Now I must attempt to design headers that will get my Beretta to sound like that. Needed a good winter project anyways.
What was it that you need to tune but will not be able to with HPtuners? I wanted to go the hptuners route with a high compression build, but now you have me thinking it may be a bigger headache then I could have imagined.
I hear you on the fixing cars for everyone else all the time. At least most my friends and family have fairly reliable cars now, though. Keep up the great work on yours, really interested in your final results. I'm sure it will be worth the wait.
Not sure if I missed it or not, but what type of metal is it you are using for the headers?1996 Beretta, 3400/5 speed, internet Tune, FFP UDP, Billet/poly mounts, ported intake manifolds, WAI, 2.5" mandrel exhaust, Borla ProXS, Intrax, KYB, poly front end kid, welded a-arms, strut, shock and sub-frame braces.
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I'm using 16 gauge 1 5/8 mandrels with 2 and 2 1/2 radious bends, I don't think you will have room in a beretta for long tube waste spark headers, simple headers just sneak in. I might get it running this weekend
Its runs!!!>>>Aint No 60* Sound Like Mehttp://youtu.be/YKEmNwa141U
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-60v6's 2nd Jon M.
91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
Originally posted by Jay LenoTires are cheap clutches...
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Originally posted by bob442 View PostI'm using 16 gauge 1 5/8 mandrels with 2 and 2 1/2 radious bends, I don't think you will have room in a beretta for long tube waste spark headers, simple headers just sneak in. I might get it running this weekend
You just gave me another reason to look forward to this weekend.1996 Beretta, 3400/5 speed, internet Tune, FFP UDP, Billet/poly mounts, ported intake manifolds, WAI, 2.5" mandrel exhaust, Borla ProXS, Intrax, KYB, poly front end kid, welded a-arms, strut, shock and sub-frame braces.
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