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trading out 3400 in van?

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  • #16
    No, it's a 3400. I just mentioned the 3500 because that was what I had read about others who had problem bolting up the bottom bolt on the compressor. Sorry to confuse.

    Meanwhile, it is in. I found a few other changes. Nothing major. Temp sensor next to thermostat housing used same style connector, but one has two pins and the other 3 pins, so easy swap. I did change cam sensor for my old one because whip was just barely too short and I decided to avoid too much stress on wires. Also I plugged off the hose that feeds coolant to oil filter heater. I could have put oil filter adapter on from old engine and removed plug srewed into hole on new engine, but figured I could eliminate a couple of potential leak points. Timing covers were identical,too.

    So, now I've driven it a couple of trips. I see a few infrequent, random misses on my scanner, mostly #4 and sometimes #1. I used my plugs with maybe 10,000 on Bosch platinum 2, new wire set, and the coil pack from new engine. I figure to re-check plugs on those cylinders and then swap my old coil packs for those since I didn't have any problem with the old ones. I do hear one strange knock or clatter from the front. It is mild, except around 2700 rpm and sometimes when the engine is under load driving. It sounds like more lifter/valve top end than a rod knocking. It is very mild at idle or even revving slightly as long as I don't take it into the 2700 rpm or higher and hold it. I don't know details yet on what is considered piston slap.
    Was this common on '05 3400's?

    Anyway, at least it is driving for now, and I have 2 vehicles again. One good thing is I found a great website. Thanks for all the help and suggestions.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by pocket-rocket View Post
      Doh! That sucks. As for the sensor in the bottom of the pan, that's the low oil warning sensor. It's almost useless anyways, since by the time it gets low enough to trip the light I'm sure your bearings and lifters will have already let you know the level is down.
      As far as the sensor, it's strange, somtimes I start it and it is on and other times it is off. It does not seem to come on/off while driving. Weird! I was wondering if there was a way to jumper the connecter with a resistor or anything to fool it into staying off? Anyone have an idea?

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      • #18
        Originally posted by WrathOfSocrus View Post
        EDIT - If you have front and rear A/C and can't make the lines work you may have to use your old oil pan in order to bolt on the older style compressor. If you could take some measurements of the mounting boss, specifically from where the pan meets the block down to the center of the bolt hole, it would be very useful for anyone in the future making this swap. A pic with a ruler up next to it would be even better!
        Please. Don't tell me this could have been avoided if I had simply used my old oil pan. I've got to go now. I feel ill.

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        • #19
          Get rid of the Bosch spark plugs, as these engines hate them. Platinum 2's might not be as bad, but +4s are worthless and cause more issues than good. Misfires on 1 & 4 make me think a coil pack, as they share the same coil. Glad everything else went good. Not sure what to say about the noise, other than I doubt its piston slap, as that only occurs when the engine is cold. Goes away as soon as the engine heats up and the pistons start expanding due to the heat.
          -Brad-
          89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
          sigpic
          Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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