performance cam

[bob442]

then take it to a shop to get it fixed.
If the motors out, then the trans will take 15 minutes to pull out. The valve body is in the side of the trans, and it will be 100000x's easier to pull the valve body with the tranny on its side on a bench. if you grab a manual for the trans you should be able to do it yourself. its scary as first, but its not overly complicated if you stay orginized, clean, and have a work space to set everything down as you take it apart. check your TC for hot spots on or around it, any discoloration is a indicator that your tourqe converter is finished. and if your fluid is black, i wouldnt bother playing around with the valve body. your whole trans would need to be rebuilt and cleaned out do to fragments of the TC floating around in there, could be causing a valve to lock up for the TCC.

IF* you decide to tackle it, let me know and i'll give you alot of usefull helpfull tips before you pull the trans.

Also, if your fluid is black, i would suggest getting the right tranny from a wrecker (from the code tag on the back of your tranny) with low KM, and clean fluid, and doing some cheap upgrades to further the life of this new/used tranny, IOW shift kit, sol. replacment, and getting the valve body upgraded. Its the cheap little things that wear out and kill these trannys realistically, that and excessive power/abuse in a 4000lb car

[bob442]

Hey, does the car stall in neutral, reverse and drive?

[Rootie524]

Neutral is fine. It's just sometimes going from park to drive or reverse causes it to stall. I noticed if I wait for the rpms to drop to a normal idle it won't stall. It's only when I start the car then right away try to shift from park to something it will stall out most of the time.

And I replaced my trans filter not too long ago. Fluid was still red, filter wasn't even that bad looking. And it's not that I am not technically skilled enough to do tranny stuff I just don't want to lol.

[bob442]

then a valve is getting hung up or and the APC sol. is failing, and TCC sol too, you could probably get away with getting the Valve body rebuilt, and i would replace the torque because its been applied when it shouldnt be causing more wear. no sence in not replacing a $80 part when your right there, and its alot of work to get back at it again. i just pulled a malibu trans at work. Man they suck, but its alot easier to pull out the top with the motor out than dropping the subframe and hanging the motor.

Edit, if you wanted me to get you a price on a Valve body and Torque to send to you i could

[SappySE107]

How good is your tune?

[bszopi]

Kinda wondering about the tune as well. I know with the Beretta (non-tunable), I just had to up the idle some to make sure it didn't die. Of course, my cam might have been a little wilder than yours...

[Rootie524]

yeah get me a price on a valve body and TC if you would. would a TC out of another GM car benefit me in anyway..

and i guess the tune is good. it ran like shit when i first put the cam in. got it tuned and that fixed it right up, ran great. only the timing advance was overdone because even on 93 it was still pinging..i had to add a $10 octane booster to 93 to get it to stop. so i gotta fix that, but that shouldnt be causing my problem.

[SappySE107]

I don't consider a tune that requires octane adder for that cam and 9.5:1 compression to be good. Would suck to replace parts over a tuning issue, that is all I can really say without datalogs or even a copy of your tune to look at. it could be trans, or tune at this point.

[Rootie524]

honestly it's probably a tune. im pretty sure all he did was just mess with the timing and went for max whp. if i send you my PCM since my car is currently down for the count anyway could you give it a decent tune?

[SappySE107]

Not really. I can see what its set at now but I need datalogs to tune. If there is anything way out of whack, I can fix that (like the spark table). Hard to get max hp with lots of pinging.

[Rootie524]

yeah it wasn't really pining when he tuned it i dont think. i really dont know what happened. maybe it was as he was tuning it so the computer kept pulling timing so it wasnt pinging so he kept giving it more and more thinking it was fine. i dont really know. and how do i get datalogs?

Also, FWIW..my exhaust smelt weird ever since it was cam'd/tuned. its hard to explain. a weird weird smell..not like bad..just weird. really can't explain it. almost like rotten eggs i suppose. no smoke tho, just that weird smell. idk if its because of the higher octane gas or what.

[SappySE107]

Datalog would be through DHP, or preferably, the HPTuner software. Sounds like a catalytic converter for the smell. How old is it?

[Superdave]

Too low of a stall torque converter with a bigger cam will cause problems, If it's a street driven car step it up to a 2K or 2500 stall and you'll have very little load on the engine at idle in gear. This will stop the shaking and lurching.

[Rootie524]

that's what i was told before. is there a gm car that already has a stall close to that that i could grab a tc out of.

and its a 2002 ben. ill try to get the datalog from the place i got it "tuned"

[geoffinbc]

But this can is not wild at all. It is no more radical than a COMP 260 Cam. It should idle at 700 RPM in drive with no problems. Maybe you are having other difficulties causing the shuddering. The change may also be significant enough to affect the computers ability to control engine idle. Also is this cam a regrind or replacement core? Does it have the correct cam position sensor. Is the cam installed correctly, meaning degreed, and is the cam sensor phased right to the lobes?