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  • Help with my build.

    I decided to make my build thread. Also ben this is for you so I dont have to keep on texting you This engine will be going in my 04 grand am. It has the 3400 LA1. I plan on using a 3400 block. Moneys not an issue, but i dont want to be going over 5,000. This will be a daily driver, but a very aggressive daily driver.

    -3400 block, .020 Overbore, 10:5:1 Compression
    -Teflon Coated Wide Cam Bearings
    -New Main Bearings
    -Grounded Crank
    -TCE Double Rolling Timing Chain Kit
    -4032 Alloy Forged Pistons
    -Race 3500 Heads
    -Race 3500 LIM
    -3400 Comp. UIM
    -65mm TCE TB
    -3 piece K&N CAI
    -28lbs FI's
    -Adj. FPR
    -CTS Extension
    -Strip Cam
    -Comp 26986 Springs
    -Custom Length Pushrods
    -ARP Crank Damper Bolt
    -Billet Engine Mount
    -SS EGR Delete
    -New Fuel Pump
    -Headers
    -2.5" SS Downpipe
    -High Flow Cat
    -2.5" SS Mandrel Bent Piping
    -Flowmaster 80 Muffler
    -New Head Bolts
    -Gaskets for everything
    -New Radiator
    -Tranny/Oiler Coolers
    -Upgraded Tranny
    -New Ignition Coils
    -Light Weight Alternator Pulley
    -Black Powder Coated 105 Amp Alternator
    -Tune
    -New Denso Front/Rear O2 Sensors

    i think thats everything...i know the list is long, but if im going to do it. I want to do it right! If anything should be added to the list please feel free to add, some of you may thing i might not need some of the things on there, thats your opinion, and i perfer if you would flame on me for listing it. thanks!
    Last edited by gt3400; 09-11-2010, 01:29 PM.

  • #2
    Crank scraper Also what sort of plugs and wires are you going to be using?
    -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
    91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
    92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
    94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
    Originally posted by Jay Leno
    Tires are cheap clutches...

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    • #3
      Originally posted by pocket-rocket View Post
      Crank scraper Also what sort of plugs and wires are you going to be using?
      alright, and iridiums, and i have some 8.5mm msd wires already

      Comment


      • #4
        No need for the AFPR.
        I was advised by the parties who dyno-tuned my car to not use iridium plugs - goo-ol' copper plugs are best.
        I did not have good luck with MSD wires, but you might fare better. Honestly, stock wires are quite good.
        You're easily over $5,000 with the machine work required.
        Just use the street/strip 3500 heads unless you plan on boost or nitrous.
        Matt
        2000 Oldsmobile Alero GLS sedan
        3400/3500 hybrid, Diamond Racing forged pistons, Scat I-beams, TCE DRTC, ported heads, WOT Race cam, PAC 1518s, Manley valves, F40 6-speed with Quaife LSD

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        • #5
          He is going to use a double roller, so I want him to use the XFI lobe cam. Not a lot of duration but a fast opening valve will give some more power. I think the race 3500 lower is only for the race 3500 upper. Race 3500 heads, Comp 3500 lower, Comp 3400 upper. If you want to go 3500 upper for a better powerband, then race/race. I think you know the difference in installation already between those right? I think we agreed on the 3400 for ease of install but just wanna double check on that since we have gone from street/strip to a race type cam now.

          PAC 1518 springs on those race heads default so no need to list any springs (26986 listed).

          I am running iridiums in the achieva and hope to dyno tune it this month or early next. The temp range may be wrong but I don't know if I believe iridiums are bad. Jesse has more tuning experience with a dyno though, so it is certainly something to investigate.
          Ben
          60DegreeV6.com
          WOT-Tech.com

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by SappySE107 View Post
            He is going to use a double roller, so I want him to use the XFI lobe cam. Not a lot of duration but a fast opening valve will give some more power. I think the race 3500 lower is only for the race 3500 upper. Race 3500 heads, Comp 3500 lower, Comp 3400 upper. If you want to go 3500 upper for a better powerband, then race/race. I think you know the difference in installation already between those right? I think we agreed on the 3400 for ease of install but just wanna double check on that since we have gone from street/strip to a race type cam now.

            PAC 1518 springs on those race heads default so no need to list any springs (26986 listed).

            I am running iridiums in the achieva and hope to dyno tune it this month or early next. The temp range may be wrong but I don't know if I believe iridiums are bad. Jesse has more tuning experience with a dyno though, so it is certainly something to investigate.
            yup sticking to the double roller, so ben are we sticking with the race heads and lim? i wanna stick to the 3400 uim no matter what. and as far as the plugs go let me know what will work best with my setup. alsi for when i decide to spray it later on down the road.

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            • #7
              well i picked up the block yesterday from colin, i got the block, crank, oil pan, crap load of bolts, also picked up a black powder coated thermostat housing and TB bypass tube...its just sitting on the counter in the garage right now. heading off to autozone to pick up some painting materials to paint the block (black) and the oil pan (silver) and a few cans of engine degreaser...allow the build to officially begin!











              Comment


              • #8
                If the block is going to be bored and honed, it will have to be hot tanked again anyway so painting it now is pointless. If not tanked, jet washed which will mess up your paint as well.
                Last edited by SappySE107; 09-12-2010, 02:20 PM.
                Ben
                60DegreeV6.com
                WOT-Tech.com

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                • #9
                  ahhh tahts a pisser, i was really looking forward to painting it

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    here's a few updated pics from todays work. i cleaned up a bunch of the stuff, painted a few items silver/aluminum. then i got the block up on the stand.











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                    • #11
                      well looks like the next item on the list to buy is the pistons. i plan on going with the 3400 forged pistons, 4032 alloy. with .020 overbore and 10:5:1...but ben said something about doing 10:7:1??? Ben, am i able to use the stock rods?. anything i need to upgrade for the use of the pistons? besides getting the rings.

                      here are the ones im going with...

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I'm running 10.7:1 DP with stock rods, so no.
                        Stage 2 Comp WOT-TECH heads, upper and lower intake P&P, street/strip cam, Custom pushrods, TCE LS Lifter Springs, Dimond Pistons 10.7:1, 65mm TB, stage 3 custom cold air intake, heat shield(only for Heat protection on Temp and MAF sensor), DHP Tuner, Adj FPR, #28 injectors, MSD ign coils, talyor wires, S&S header, S&S high flow cat, borla cat Back, all ARP studs, TCE double timing chain with crank kits, Cometic head gaskets, A/C deleted, HF water pump, and so on

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          That's a long list! Sounds like it will be quite the build. Here are my thoughts on it.

                          1) iridium plugs will be fine for an NA engine. They even work ok on mildly boosted 3400's. MSD plug wires are fine, but I'd stay away from MSD coils or the DIS4. I've had several MSD coils fail on me recently. Stock ones are fine.

                          2) a crank scrapper would definitely be a nice addition to a comprehensive NA build like this.

                          3) I would not get the lightweight alternator pulley. I had an aluminum one on mine for a while and it was wearing and making a mess of my alternator and everything under it. Maybe 'cause it wasn't anodized or something? No idea, but I switched back to the stock pulley. The difference is so small you won't notice.

                          4) stick with A/C Delco O2 sensors. They seem to work best for these cars. Denso might be ok, but definitely don't use the bosch ones, people have had trouble with those. If you are getting a tune, there is no need for a rear one. Since you are getting a high flow cat and full exhaust etc, just eliminate the rear O2 and have the code turned off in the PCM. The high flow cat might trip the codes anyway. I'd also recommend adding a second bung in front of the cat at the header outlet and putting in a wideband O2 sensor. Invaluable tuning tool!

                          5) I'd still recommend getting the AFPR. Since you are changing injectors and installing a fairly radical cam, that will change your vacuum and fuel flow at idle and you will probably need to adjust it. Mine needed it.


                          Anyway, good luck with the build!
                          '97 Grand Prix GT 3800 (sold)
                          '00 Grand Am GT 3400 supercharged
                          13.788 @ 103.73 mph, 320whp 300 ft/lbs
                          Gotta love boost!

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                          • #14
                            Thanks for the info...are the upgraded teflon parts really worth the money?

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                            • #15
                              Wow, you've got quite the list built up, Phil. Do work.

                              Agreed with Aaron on the plugs, I'd stick with the AC Delco Iridiums unless the coppers are absolutely necessary.

                              As for the MSD stuff, I've had the 8.5mm wires, and the blaster coils for 45,000 miles now, and I've never had an issue.
                              -Chris-
                              03 Black GAGT Sedan
                              MODS:
                              MP Racing CAI / Magnaflow High Flow Catalytic Converter / Flowmaster 80 series w/glasspack resonator
                              Front STB / MSD Ignition: 8.5mm wires & blaster coils / SOME BIG GODDAMNED MUDFLAPS

                              And some other stuff to make it look pretty.

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