I used a dremel with a flexible extension and some carbide bits, and cross buff bits and so on...... Worked fine for me.
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Last edited by 3400-95-Modified; 04-16-2010, 03:13 PM.
Got Lope?
3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS
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Originally posted by bszopi View PostThose iron heads are going to kill your dremel... One thing I know of is to keep the "fin" that is inside the head. You can clean it up some, but don't get rid of it, as that will kill any improvements you made otherwise.
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I'm not under any illusions that going medieval on the heads with a dremel will magically give me 200 HP, but since I've got so many spare heads I figured I'd play around with it. I've done a couple (it's not really a dremel, it's a pneumatic grindy thing that apparently can hold its own with an iron head) I've tried them, and at least they seem as good as the stock version. And on the first one, I think I cut out the fin.
Maybe after 25 years of dirt, blood, and mud the engine isn't as sensitive as it once was...
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Originally posted by 86FieroSEv6 View PostFrom what I can see in your pic's, I believe the "notches" you are referring to are the machined undercuts from the hardened valve seat installation operations.-60v6's 2nd Jon M.
91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
Originally posted by Jay LenoTires are cheap clutches...
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Being N/A I would smooth them out, not completely get rid of them. Otherwise velocity can be dropped if the ports aren't choking your engine right now. At least that's how it makes sense in my melon.-60v6's 2nd Jon M.
91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
Originally posted by Jay LenoTires are cheap clutches...
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Originally posted by SappySE107 View PostI wasn't trying to ridicule you, sorry.
I can definitely see how a full blown electric die grinders would work for you and help turn around time and probably outlive a dremel any day.. but if you ask me they seem a bit large and bulky to do the work, especially when your starting out. I would rather work with something that takes much more effort to f-up rather than a tool that you could blow through to a water jacket in no time.
So really I agree with both sides. If you have time, and it is your first time then a smaller rotary tool may suite you well, but if you are turning these things around for profit and you know exactly where and how much to cut, then something a bit larger and with a bit more power/longevity will suite you better.
Got Lope?
3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS
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It is more difficult to do a good job with smaller bits. Consistancy is important. You can get into smaller areas with those small bits, but that detail work nets you the least return on time. For the easy to get to areas, it is more difficult to be consistant on the port itself, let alone port to port. I started with a dremel and I have ruined plenty of heads on accident and on purpose. I will never recommend a dremel to anyone that wants to port, professionally or not.Ben
60DegreeV6.com
WOT-Tech.com
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One of the methods used by pros to maintain consistency from head to head is to make port templates once you have achieved a good setup. These templates are made to the shape at different depths in the port so you can check the shape as you go. They are pieces of sheet metal with a heavy wire attached so they can be inserted in the port. The templates are marked for proper order based on position in the port.
Damn . . . . gave up another speed secret . . . . .
If you ain't rock and roll, you must be driving a Honda
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I think the perception of porting is different between those who do it a lot and those who have done light porting with a dremel. I have no doubt that 3400-95-Modified's heads are better than stock, he did a very nice job however when a person does a "competition" port job like Ben, John and myself there is quite a bit more to the process. I think Ben can vouch for the amount of material removed from the ports on my 3500 heads.
I've got 2 hours of porting into just a 3500 UIM and LIM that are on my bench, probably another 6-8 will go into the heads. That's with an air die grinder and a nice set of bits. I'll also probably spend another hour or 2 working with them on the flow bench to match all the ports and give the customer final numbers. It is not an easy process.
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Originally posted by SappySE107 View PostI started with a dremel and I have ruined plenty of heads on accident and on purpose. I will never recommend a dremel to anyone that wants to port, professionally or not.Last edited by pocket-rocket; 04-24-2010, 09:23 PM. Reason: corrected the word bushings, meant brushes-60v6's 2nd Jon M.
91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
Originally posted by Jay LenoTires are cheap clutches...
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Originally posted by SappySE107 View Postx2 with what Dave said.
I don't expect my heads to be as good as your's but right now thats all I could muster... SO maybe next year when I grab another 3500 and 3400, or just a 3500, I can have a professional job done.
Got Lope?
3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS
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