cam shaft swap help

[Rootie524]

ok..so..it was all back together today..and im all ready to start it..i turn the key two clicks to prime the fuel pump and i hear the splatter of liquid on my garage floor. a few seconds go by and the smell of gas fill the air. as pissed as i could be i take off my throttle body and UIM to get a good look at the fuel rail and have someone turn the key while i see where the leak is. It is coming from around the bolt on the fuel inlet hose (pictured below).

when i took the engine apart..that hose was stuck pretty good in the engine so me and my helper had to pull them apart..so idk if there was an o-ring in there or not. if there was i dont know it cuz it would have flew somewhere. so my question is why does it leak..does it need a o-ring or do i need a new fuel inlet pipe cuz somehow i messed mine up?! im so pissed. i coould have had my car back up and running tonight if it werent for this.

and the leak is not coming from where the bolt meets the fuel rail, it's coming from the very outter end of the bolt and the gap in between that and the pipe itself. hard to explain unless you've studied this pretty well before.

[SappySE107]

Yes, there needs to be an o ring.

[Rootie524]

where can i get this? autozone was clueless..and i need it like super rushed delivery asap.

[bszopi]

Pretty sure I got mine from AutoZone, or some place similar. It might even be similar to an injector o-ring, which they should be able to pull up.

[WrathOfSocrus]

ACDELCO Part # 217461

That's from rock auto under fuel rail o-ring kit

[pocket-rocket]

Pretty sure I got mine from AutoZone, or some place similar. It might even be similar to an injector o-ring, which they should be able to pull up.

I believe injector o-rings are a bit thicker than the o-ring on that fuel line.

[SappySE107]

Injector o ring is smaller.

[pocket-rocket]

Strange... Out of all of the rail lines I've pulled off the o-ring was only about 3/8" total diameter and went on the end of a specially flared section (that ends basically right there where his pic shows, you just don't see the very end, but it's *right* there) I've highlighted in yellow. I'm not arguing here (you know this), I've just never seen one of those goofy looking blocks on the end of a line like that like you have there.

[Rootie524]

ok i fixed the fuel issue..now on to a whole new set of problems. i went to start it..it does start..it does its thing but stalls if i dont give it gas..it seems to idle around 1k and lower like it should and it has the slight lope that wot said it would. but there is a crazy amount of pings and pongs and clicks and i dont know what it is but it cant be good. see the attached video..

thinking its either timing, oil pump drive (idk why but its possible), or the valve springs and what not got screwed up..i really have no idea and i just want to drive my car again..and also when i do hit the gas it flies up in RPMs and stays there on its own for quite some time. i have no control over the gas pedal basically. (i now have a toyota..lol) ask me any other questions that will help you help me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7o487P8nic

help me...

[asylummotorsports]

You didn't mess up the pushrods did you? CHECK THAT FIRST!

And vaccuum leaks will drive you crazy if you missed something.

I would suggest you don't run it anymore until you find out an obvious problem.

Good luck with it and post everything you find.

[WrathOfSocrus]

How come EVERY time i hear of people with engine issues they ALWAYS have remarks about how it acts in WOT??? I wouldn't do that to a junkyard car let alone my own beast i just spent hours wrenching on, but that's my opinion.

That thing sounded horrible. Some sort of timing, be it ignition or valvetrain, is not correct. The engine fires 1-2-3-4-5-6 and the coil packs light off 1-2-3 so it should fire 1&4, 2&5, and 3&6. From the video it looks like you have the coils in the stock location for a 3X00. As you FACE the engine bay, the terminals should be connected from left to right - 5,2,3,6,4,1. Obviously facing it a different way it would be reversed.

If you triple check and the firing order is correct then the camshaft may not be properly aligned with the crank. I can't think of anything else that would case such noise but still allow it to run.

[SappySE107]

Pushrods or cam timing. You couldn't screw up ignition enough to sound like that.

[Rootie524]

pushrods were put in the correct spots and from what i saw from the front valve cover through the oil cap, they are straight and not bent like the picture someone posted on here. after seeing that picture i triple checked they were in the correct spots.

and i dont really get the WOT comment WrathOfSocrus made. i meant that there is a slight lope like a stall kinda feel to the new cam but on wot-tech for the strip cam, it is described that this is normal. that's all i meant..i wasn't blaming ben or wot-tech for any problems or anything. and if you mean you thought i revved my car to WOT while it was clicking like that i did not. i gave it alittle gas to keep it from stalling and it only went up to 2k and then it revved up to 3k on it's own. It's veryyyy loud right now so it probably sounded like more.

and as for ignition timing. i check that too. i have the correct wire on the distributor going to the correct cylinder. ex: 1-1, 2-2, 3-3, etc..im assuming that's correct and that it doesnt matter what ignition wire you use, just that it is in the correct spot and goes to a spark plug.

and since it has to be mechanical timing..im guessing im not too far off. because if it was really off..it wouldnt idle at all..so the fact that it idles leads me to believe that im close..i hope someone can back me up. and the clicks that you hea i assume are the valves knocking on the top of the pistons. It doesn't sound like a really damaging knock so i think my valves aren't bent or anything..but time will tell.

all vacuum lines are in the right spots..same with electricals..and believe me i check this engine up and down, left and right several times to make sure. i checked everything i could think of. and i thought about all the possible problems and talked them through with a buddy and canceled them all out and we were left with timing. Timing because it idles and accelerates it's own and goes down to a very low idle on it's own because valves are open at wrong times in conjunction with the pistons and in the same retrospect, valves are hitting pistons so the cam is off time with the crank. so..everything points to timing IMHO.

[Superdave]

I'd check your valve springs and make sure the rockers are tight first.


you did torque the cam bolt down to 103 ft-lbs right?

And you are 100% sure you had the dots on the gears lined up?

[Rootie524]

well im pretty sure the rockers are down perfectly. ill take the valve covers off to double check. and the cam bolt is torqued down just fine. even if it wren't it would only shift alittle left and right if your facing the engine..i dont believe that would cause valves to smack pistons..it just may bend my rods..which arent bent..so its not that..and im pretty sure everything was lined up but i cant be 100%. i had a few people helping me out so i cant account for all of them. it may be off a tick or two. like i said, it cant be off by much.

so how should i go about fixing this? someone said put it in TDC and make sure the valves for that cyliner all all the way closed or something like that..and then it should be good? but i dont get it because i put the new cam in the same way the old one was..so..im lost