3.4 RWD/FWD Hybrid for S10?

[Helgaiden]

Gettin close to buying a 3.4 out of a 95 Camaro and slowly taking time to build it up to have it installed in my brother's 84 s10 (currently on a carbed 2.. I am in CA if that makes any difference (for ECM and sensor issues i suppose).

Anyways, im trying to learn everything i can about what to do to build it up but not add too many more complications to the overall swap. Regardless, hybrid popped into my head. If i wanted to make a 3.4 hybrid that makes alot of power, what exactly would i be looking for and what aftermarket things can be done on top of that? From my reading, i can see that an aluminum head from the FWD 3.4s flow better so thats something but i also read that TBI isnt supported using those heads (and since the original truck is carbed, getting the provisions for some type of fuel injection might be quite the process).

Long story short, my brother wants to make good power, not break the bank, and not have our mechanic throw a fit trying to get the engine in and installed and figured out and stuff. Would a hybrid be recommended or simply headers, port n' polish, cam, maybe valvejob, intake, and better throttle body be recommended?

an electric fan will also be being used so another question is since the 3.4 to be purchased has everything with it (accessories and all it seems), what all would need to be transferred from the 2.8 with its current Vee Belt system? Would really like to switch over to serpentine. Thanks.

One last thing: since the truck is currently carbed, what PCM would i have to look for to make whichever fuel injected route i go work? (another note, turbo or supercharging will not be considered so issues regarding compression ratio for boosting are irrelevent)

[bszopi]

Being in CA, basically rule out a hybrid, as I just don't see it meeting CA's emissions laws.

[geoffinbc]

With cost, time and headaches the major concern a hybrid is not the best option.

Build a 3.4L and gasket match the heads and intake and clean up the valve bowls. This work alone will net a healthy gain and costs nothing but your time in the garage with a die grinder. Pick up a COMP cams K-Kit and you will get all the valvetrain parts you need to freshen up the motor plus a healthy cam. You can also buy their Magnum line of roller rockers which bolt on and cost under $150. Install small block chevy valve stem seals on the intake AND exhaust. From the factory the 60 degree iron heads never had exhaust seals. Most shops will do a 3 angle valve job if they can't they they are way behind the times and maybe you should look at another shop. A standard 30,45,60 grind is good for all around port flow.

[blowns10]

Will the chevy valve stem seals for intake & exhaust work for the 2.8, I suppose so since it would work for the 3.4, right?.
What brand would you recommend?; what brand are the ones you have on your engine, betterthanyou? Thanks. Late.

[neo71665]

Will the chevy valve stem seals for intake & exhaust work for the 2.8, I suppose so since it would work for the 3.4, right?.
What brand would you recommend?; what brand are the ones you have on your engine, betterthanyou? Thanks. Late.

The 2.8 and 3.4 have the same heads so yes they work

[Helgaiden]

thank for the input, guy. x2 to neo.

[geoffinbc]

Yes but they have to be the old 11/32 stem size. Do not use seals designed for 8mm stems like ones found on the gen III and IV small block or the Gen II and III 60 degree V6 engines.

[Helgaiden]

With cost, time and headaches the major concern a hybrid is not the best option.

Build a 3.4L and gasket match the heads and intake and clean up the valve bowls. This work alone will net a healthy gain and costs nothing but your time in the garage with a die grinder. Pick up a COMP cams K-Kit and you will get all the valvetrain parts you need to freshen up the motor plus a healthy cam. You can also buy their Magnum line of roller rockers which bolt on and cost under $150. Install small block chevy valve stem seals on the intake AND exhaust. From the factory the 60 degree iron heads never had exhaust seals. Most shops will do a 3 angle valve job if they can't they they are way behind the times and maybe you should look at another shop. A standard 30,45,60 grind is good for all around port flow.

Awesome thanks. There are two kits for the roller rockers though...
RP1413-12 1.52 Magnum rockers and High Energy pushrods
RP1414-12 1.6 Magnum rockers and High Energy pushrods

The 1.52 says its 50 state legal and CARB approved for 4.2L engines to 7.1L engines. So...that doesnt apply to the 3.4 so does that mean just go with the 1.6 kit? Or since im in cA, should i just get the 1.52 to be on safe side?

Also, there are 3 kits for the camshaft im interested in. Im assuming the Complete K-Kit would be best to go with
K16-232-4 Chevy 173-207 60° High Energy 252H Cam & Kit $335.90

but keeping budgeting in mind, is that the best to go with or can I go with either of these two without penalty?
CL16-232-4 Chevy 173-207 60° High Energy 252H Cam & Lifters $214.55
SK16-232-4 Chevy 173-207 60° High Energy 252H Cam & S-Kit $252.47

Also, i found these headers. What do you guys think?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390107013698&_trksid=p2759.l1259

I asked tuning-depot about the ports and stuff for the truck's sensors and AIR system and this was their response...
"upper ports as shown in the auction are present on the primaries."

I hate to sound dumb but..huh? I mean yeah...i can see the ports from the pictures so i guess those are it.

One last thing: this should also be fine on pump gas when all said and done right?

[geoffinbc]

The 1.6:1 rockers will be just fine and will give you a bump in power and there will be no measurable difference is emissions. The COMP 252 cam is really nice. It is a dead smooth cam with great torque around 2500~3000 RPM. The 260 cam will move the torque curve up in the RPM range and give you more horsepower. It will also pass emissions.

Those headers look fine and will not make emissions any better or worse but they most likely don't have a CARB number if you need it.

[Helgaiden]

Yeah im fine with the headers not being CARB approved as long as all the ports and stuff are on there. The 252 cam seemed better than the stock replacement one. Im sure that one would provide better power than stock but why settle less when i can just order a slightly better one right? Not trying to move the torque curve up too high (it is a truck after all) so thats why i decided against the 260.


However, which of those kits (the ones with the cam) do you recommend?

Also, planning on using the stock 2bbl carb for now. The intake manifold from the 2.8 should bolt right onto the 3.4, carb and all right? Should i possibly look into a better intake manifold like the Edelbrock Performer 2V?

Also curious if the chrome edelbrock valve covers will fit over the Magnum Roller Rockers? The valve covers are meant for the 2.8 but as far as i know, the 3.4 heads are the same so it shouldnt matter.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsProduct.jsp?itemIdentifier=10709_0_0_&skuDescription=Edelbrock+/+Valve+Cover+-+Performance&brandName=Edelbrock&displayName=Valve+Cover+-+Performance&categoryNValue=15399999&sortType=&store=5562&isSearchByPartNumber=true&fromWhere=&fromString=search&counter=0&itemId=828-0&navValue=15300828&filterByKeyWord=4488&productId=10709&searchText=4488&categoryDisplayName=External+Engine&parentId=53-0

edit: i just keep adding and adding lol. Last question: is an inline/electric fuel pump recommended and what PSI rating am i looking for?

[geoffinbc]

Always buy the K kit. You will need all the parts from it to install the cam properly and it ensures you don't have to go out and buy parts you forgot. Also if you buy the magnum rockers but the kit that comes with new pushrods.

Yes your stock intake and carb will work. However the carb may need some fine tuning. The Edelbrock intake works well when coupled with their headers but otherwise I would use the stock one. Stock, aftermarket and Fiero valve covers will all fit over the magnum rockers they are no larger than stock.

[Helgaiden]

is there a lower cost kit (of the three i listed) i can use to have what i need or do i absolutely NEED the entire complete kit?

[geoffinbc]

Not really unless you have new spare parts. The kit is cheap in comparison with sourcing all the parts separately.

You will get:
Cam
Lifters
Valve Springs
Valve Spring Retainers
Retainer Locks
Timing Chain and Gears
Valve seals

You need ALL the parts so it is better to just buy the kit.

[Helgaiden]

ah right, okay thanks. Ill be posting a swap thread shortly addressing some other stuff and showing pics of the engine. This forum is fine to post it in right? or is there another topic forum i should post that in?

[geoffinbc]

Yup thats fine.