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01 3.4 rocker issue

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  • 01 3.4 rocker issue

    Hey guys, I need some help again PLEASE. Doing head gaskets on the 3.4 w/eng cracks from b4. Had the heads completely redone. When installing the rockers, I noticed something odd. As I tighten the rocker bolt, the final bit, the valve seems to be opening a very tiny bit. not much. Just enough to get the valve off the seat. I have checked other places in the forums, and can't find any info. I know the bolt is torqued down, with no lash adj. I know the lifters are hydraulic, so when I tighten the rocker bolts, why do the lifters NOT compress, instead of the valve. I thought i saw a post about loading the lifts and possibly needing a longer pushrod, to load the lifter, but I need a shorter one. This is not just one rocker with valve starting to open during crank rotation. I have turned the crank, and verified all still just slightly opening upon tightening. Can all lifters just go bad all at once? There seems to be no compression in the lifters. Is this something normal? Had the heads reworked, decks milled for straightness. New seals and guides and seat work. Using stock style felpro gaskets. Kept rockers and pushrods organized, so no mismatch. Although after head work, I didnt keep track of front or rear head, but they were machined, so should that even matter. I can turn the rocker bolt with my fingers until no slack. Then when I turn with tool about a quarter turn to seat I can just see the spring coils compress, but just a very small bit. if anyone can help, I would appreciate it.

  • #2
    How much did you get machined off the heads, although it shouldn't matter?

    Might try to get a cylinder where both intake and exhaust should be closed, then try to pressurize the cylinder with air via the spark plug. This will tell you if the valve is actually coming off the seat or not.
    -Brad-
    89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
    sigpic
    Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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    • #3
      They can all go bad at once, or can be locked up due to coolant in the oil. Cleaning the lifters apart and cleaning them out would fix that problem.
      Ben
      60DegreeV6.com
      WOT-Tech.com

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      • #4
        dont really know how much. i asked but too many cooks nobody knows the recipe. even if they cut off a quarter inch, shouldnt the lifts compress b4 the valve starts to open. a friend suggests that maybe the valve is just setting up into proper position. that dont sound right. just dont want to put together and find out the hard way, something is wrong. i still have those cracks to worry about when i do get it running. starting to think it is time to have my blood pressure chekd. what is normal bp for guy with eng trouble, steadily decreasing fundage, and an unhealthy lack of repair knowledge? or should i ask that in the dohc forum. lol!!!
        p.s. the lifters are not blocked. i turned eng over several time during cleaning, and oil was flowing out the tops, with no rods in them. pourd atf across all as final rinse b4 assembly.
        Last edited by rooster5333; 01-17-2010, 05:39 PM.

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        • #5
          If it is just a little it is because the heads were milled. The lifters will slowly bleed off, and every thing should be fine. If the lfters were able to beed off to fast you would looses lift with the engine running.
          If you want to test to see if this is the problem. Tighten the rocker down to normal specs. Then wait a little while, then back it off. Then tighten it again, the spring should not move because the lifter has bleed down. Good luck.

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          • #6
            You do lose lift with the engine run, hence the hydraulic function of the lifter. Pull the lifters out and inspect them. .020" off won't require different pushrods. They do make rocker arm shims to raise them .010 or .020" for when the heads are milled if you want to get a set of those. I would still inspect the lifters because they should bleed down with the lack of oil pressure to keep them from preloading.
            Ben
            60DegreeV6.com
            WOT-Tech.com

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            • #7
              pull the lifters out and try to push down the plunger by hand, or if you have a C clamp style valve spring compressor, use that.

              I'd just take them apart and make sure they are clean inside.. a new set isn't that expensive either.
              Past Builds;
              1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
              1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
              Current Project;
              1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

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              • #8
                darn it to heck! that makes so much sense it makes me look stupid. thanks a bunch guys, i knew you all would know what it was.

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