dry nitrous on 3100

[evilmiata]

What dohcfiend said. All things being equal, a dry system needs a fuel pressure regulator. A wet system needs an extra solenoid, a tee (to tap a fuel line), and some fuel hose.

I bought my first system off of Ebay. ~$120 shipped (just before F&F came out, its a bit more expensive now) got me a wet kit off of a 68 charger. I swapped out the carb plate for a NOS nozzle.

Read, read, ask questions, then read some more. You'll want a WOT switch which interupts the solenoids' circuits expect during Wide Open Throttle. You'll also want that circuit to have an arming switch in the dash. To be on the safe side, don't juice below 3000rpm, and turn it off well before redline. I don't know how the 3100 finds redline (either cuts fuel or spark). Both are bad, but if your motor cuts fuel, you will have an instant lean condition at redline! You can upgrade to a window switch that will only allow the nitrous system to work between certain rpm. It would be smart to retard timing 2*. Not a bad idea to get a AFM to warn you of lean conditions. A 75 shot could exceed your fuel pump capacity. I had to upgrade to a Walbro 255 when I used a 75 shot. With that in mind, a fuel pressure gauge isn't a bad idea, either. Use plugs one heat range colder.

Hopefully you're starting to realize that nitrous systems aren't that simple. Read, read, and ask questions. Have you ever ridden in a nitrous-equiped ride?

[RednBlack]

Speaking of "crack-heads", how addicted do you have to be to do this? I'll stick to gasoline for now. (because of the cheap prices!) But that would be a cool way to show up at work!

[dohcfiend]

me personally i used the test port in the fuel rail. it is a standard 4an fitting and all u have to do is either use a valve stem remover(i used a pair or hemostats) to remove the schrader valve and instant fuel. later when $$$ is available i will put a tee in the line and hook up a pressure cutoff switch(of course this is after i get a controller so i can increase my crack doseage). i am pretty confident that the 50 shot isn't hurting my fuel pressure enough. cause the o2 stays on rich at WOT.

but i am only up to speed on the fundamentals. i still need to catch up on the specifics.

EVILMIATA i have a few questions for you. doing a 13* cam timing mod, how will that effect my engine when using n20? my guess is it would benefit cause retarding the ex cam would allow more time to vent the ex charge. cause i know the burn is hotter and cylinder pressure is up so it would help cool things down a wee bit and help effieiency thus maybe a few hp?

[extremeskiier728]

dohcfiend is your wet system a single nozzle most of the ones ive ever seen have like six nozzles. if you can use a single nozzle wet system then count me in. where is your nozzle placed if it is single? also i noticed you bought one of those vacuum shift kits how does it work?

[dohcfiend]

yes it is a single nozzle. u can buy one for 29.95 from summit or 5-10 bucks more from a speed shop. you place it in your air intake tube. i am not sure of the specs but i believe it is 1-3 inches from your tb. mine is 1.5 i believe. pm me your e-mail and i can e-mail you a pic.

i can't vouch for all the vacuum modulator kits out there but the b&m kit sucks ass.
the multi nozzle kits u are referring to are either a direct port setup. which is super expensive or the nos NOSzle where they go under your injectors which is pricey as well and it is a dry system i believe but not sure.

for a 50 shot u will need a 37n20 and a 22 fuel jet. get access to a scanner and read your plugs after using it. try 1-2 steps colder on your sparkplugs and all should be fine.

this is what u do. try 1 step colder 1st. hook up your scanner, under wot use your nos and monitor your o2 sensor reading. under wot it should always read rich. if it says lean at any point after mashing the gas get off of the gas and put 1 step colder plugs in it and try again. repeat the procedure. after it says rich go have a little fun for 2 or 3 runs and pull your plugs and read them. if they are ok u are good to go. since your engine is "tight"(mine is high mileage so i am not in a hurry to up my n20 just yet) and u have a wet system maybe u can opt for 30% of your engines output and the max I would advise on stock timing(also it is a general rule of thumb on n20 with stock timing hence the book). the downside is your plugs will foul so u will have to pull and clean them every so often or so i was told.

[extremeskiier728]

would you suggest i get an adj. fpr and up my feul press. a couple psi. or not. also would retarding my timing like 2* be a good idea.

[evilmiata]

EVILMIATA i have a few questions for you. doing a 13* cam timing mod, how will that effect my engine when using n20? my guess is it would benefit cause retarding the ex cam would allow more time to vent the ex charge. cause i know the burn is hotter and cylinder pressure is up so it would help cool things down a wee bit and help effieiency thus maybe a few hp?

You're half right. Retarding the timing actually reduces power, but will also reduce the chance of knock. I'm not saying you don't already know this, but knock=preignition. Hot spots cause preignition.

A nozzle a few inches away from the TB is fine. Just make sure that the spray pattern points into the TB. If the nozzle is too far away, one runs the change of puddling the fuel. This risk increases with bigger pills. OTOH, most dry systems should be farther away from the TB.

Colder plugs don't reduce lean conditions; they reduce knock. If you have a lean condition, YOU ARE RUNNING OUT OF FUEL.

Nitrous will actually clean deposits from the engine. If you are fouling plugs, then you are burning oil, running too rich or using too cold a plug.

Learn to read your spark plugs.

Skiier: If you're using a wet system, skip the AFPR. BTW, a couple of PSI isn't going to help. You're trying to add close to 50% of the engines power. In theory, you'll need 50% more fuel. Retarding your timing 2* would be safe.

[extremeskiier728]

actually i was going to run 50 shot and as far as i know my motor is not a 100 hp motor so about 1/3 of my engines power and if i do end up a little lean what would you suggest

[dohcfiend]

when i am on n20 the plug's heat range is just fine. it is just when i am not using the juice that it is too cold. that however is just something i will have to accept until i can get that box and then i can go to a hotter plug and have my juice.

[evilmiata]

actually i was going to run 50 shot and as far as i know my motor is not a 100 hp motor so about 1/3 of my engines power and if i do end up a little lean what would you suggest

If you run lean, you need to either stop creating a lean condition, or increase fuel. You can increase fuel by either increasing your fuel pill or upgrading your fuel pump.

[extremeskiier728]

sorry what do you mean by fuel pill, (I should probably know but the ADD it's a tricky thing)

[dohcfiend]

he is referring to the little jets that go into the nozzle.

[extremeskiier728]

hey is there a diff. between a fogger nozzle and a wet nozzle? and also when i use a wet system im most likely not going to put to much of a demandon my fuel supply in the lines to the engine will I? considering i would never run more than like 70shot

[evilmiata]

hey is there a diff. between a fogger nozzle and a wet nozzle?

A fogger is a nozzle, and visa versa. A wet system fogger has one fogger tip, but a nitrous AND fuel input (you'll only need one fogger). A dry fogger has only one input.

and also when i use a wet system im most likely not going to put to much of a demandon my fuel supply in the lines to the engine will I? considering i would never run more than like 70shot

Like I said before, since you are making more power, you will be using more fuel. Your entire fuel system will be taxed, but I can't tell you how much. Watch your A/F. If you go lean, you need to use a lower shot or upgrade your fuel pump. You could check your fuel filter, but that should be basic maint.

This is a pill. It slides into the fogger and before you attach the supply line from the solenoid.

I also highly recommend a nitrous filter. Even after two bottles, I've seen all kinds of things come out of my filter.

[extremeskiier728]

alrighty people anyone else got any advice?