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Cool. I was wondering since they were welded all up last pic I saw.
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New 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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quick and easy W reference:
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Nothing ever comes good out of .5 increments.Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.Comment
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Sorry about the delay guys, but one set is ready for shipping, the other needs another coat of ceramic. Hope you guys can give us some results
Media blasted...
Coated (pre-700degree bake)...
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We did it, back when I was with Bad Dog Racing Team on ST. Croix USVI. Racing in the CDRA (Caribbean Drag Racing Association).
It was an 1992 automatic Z-34. ATT we thought the headers hugely expensive for the amount of mods we had to do. Firewall mods consisted of removing heat shielding and trimming a pinch weld. This was 2001 or 2002 iirc, and we also had to do flange mods. None of the holes lined up and even 1 tube was more then 3/4" off. Workmen ship was pretty good. We accounted it for a prototype design and just made it work. I have no complaints.sigpicHow to make High performance Emissions:
A "true" High flow converter, straight pipe.
Low/No flow EGR valve, block off plate.
Carbon canister and purge valve mod, place in large 30 Gallon can, cover, and place curbside, the city will do the rest.
PCV valve and vent tube, reroute to exhaust to dump where it belongs, on the ground. Or add breathers and let it all free.Comment
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John, is that downpipe long enough to get a strap band clamp on it? I can't tell/see from the angle in the picture. That is how mine will be attached.sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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Originally posted by IsaacHayes View Post
I test fit one, depending on how deep the slots are cut on the collar you get, you may have to trim a bit due to the radius. I suggest you put the flex on the end of the header, slice it with a cut off to make the slots and use a clamp. That's where the most movement will be.Comment
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Slots?? Collar? Huh?
These are the clamps I have: (the easy seal, not the ubolt)
Looks like the 5spd swap we move the drive train back 1", and also rotate the engine forward (top moving forward, bottom moving back) .5".
I'll probably put a flex pipe on, and no cat. The orange car has no flex pipe at all, and no joint on the manifold as it has 3400 manifolds as it sits..
If I do have to run a cat, it will probably be a fake cat...sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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I didn't try those
I used a slip-coupler type on Alan's car.
You are the only one i am worried about fitment so far because of the engine angle compared to the autos. This is why you got the good deal
EDIT: the coated headers in the pic are yours (two o2's), color change would require more work at this point.Comment
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These work better than the stepped style. These you butt-join the pipes, then torque down to spec (like 60ft/lb) and they conform to the pipe by actually stretching/bending and seal up well. Rock auto has them the cheapest out of anyone. Same for the dynomax muffler. Ebay has the magnaflow cats cheapest. The summit u-bolt you see are stainless and just used for holding up the pipe to some extra mounts in the rear.
Just wondering about color. What color is on them? Silver or white?sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
Comment
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I dont know if I would trust a butt join with only that steel band clamping it together... Sounds like there isn't enough friction to prevent the pipe from slipping out or apart, and becoming a flex joint.
Got Lope?
3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBSComment
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They are from Australia, so they must be good.
-Brad-
89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
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Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blogComment
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I've never used those, and never had a problem with the slip couplers and u-joints (even all the big mfgr's use them in their systems). They actually crush a ring in the pipe and sometimes are difficult to remove even - with a cple small tack welds, they are even better.
You have to remember that your engine is going to rotate under load unlike the twisitng of a RWD.Comment
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